DaveRRC

DaveRRC

Member
I have a 1994 RRC factory manual 200tdi. I'd like to civilise the drive as much as I can. It's had a 2" lift on springs. It doesn't really drive that great. I'm due to replace the shocks soon as they're knackered, but the problem feels more like geometry/suspension setup. Is there anything I should do to correct the suspension after a 2" lift? Any suggestions welcome!! Thanks
 
DaveRRC said:
I have a 1994 RRC factory manual 200tdi. I'd like to civilise the drive as much as I can. It's had a 2" lift on springs. It doesn't really drive that great. I'm due to replace the shocks soon as they're knackered, but the problem feels more like geometry/suspension setup. Is there anything I should do to correct the suspension after a 2" lift? Any suggestions welcome!! Thanks
Click to expand...
Get rid of the 2" lift:cool:
 
Unless you crank up damper, spring, and ARB stiffness, it'll never handle as well at height. 4x4s are all a compromise. Road manners or offload ability. Without the ability to raise and lower on the fly (air or hydraulic suspension). It'll always be one or the other. Higher suspension is only really useful if you're after fitting bigger tyres, if you have no intention, drop her back down.
 
Bix said:
Unless you crank up damper, spring, and ARB stiffness, it'll never handle as well at height. 4x4s are all a compromise. Road manners or offload ability. Without the ability to raise and lower on the fly (air or hydraulic suspension). It'll always be one or the other. Higher suspension is only really useful if you're after fitting bigger tyres, if you have no intention, drop her back down.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I’m not expecting great handling, and I understand the compromise. It’s the general road manors. It doesn’t feel very connected, and I’m wondering if there’s some kind of correction kit I need?

Re-Tyres, it’s running 265 75 r16, so they are pretty big I guess.

Maybe that’s just what they feel like when you lift and over-tyre them... I’ll replace shocks, do some bushes and get tracking done. See what it feels like then.
 
Do you actually NEED the lift for your usage of the vehicle?
If only for pose value then get rid of it & return to normal height.
 
DaveRRC said:
Yeah, I’m not expecting great handling, and I understand the compromise. It’s the general road manors. It doesn’t feel very connected, and I’m wondering if there’s some kind of correction kit I need?

Re-Tyres, it’s running 265 75 r16, so they are pretty big I guess.

Maybe that’s just what they feel like when you lift and over-tyre them... I’ll replace shocks, do some bushes and get tracking done. See what it feels like then.
Click to expand...

Standard tyres might help. People say metric sizes are equivalent to imperial size tyres, but they aren't. I am not quite sure what that would have had as stock, but go back to that size.
In addition, go through the suspension and steering, and replace any worn bushes, ball joints, etc.

That might help matters, but if the road handling still isn't as you want it, get rid of the lift, as suggested.

As standard, that vehicle should have excellent road handling, so there is a problem, maybe mods, maybe wear, maybe a combination of both.
 
The RRC handles like a matress in a hurricane regardless

The lifted ones are next level..

I'd lose the lift there is absolutely no reason to keep it.
 
Henry_b said:
The RRC handles like a matress in a hurricane regardless

The lifted ones are next level..

I'd lose the lift there is absolutely no reason to keep it.
Click to expand...

They drive pretty well compared to the box body models of the same period.
 
Another vote for getting rid of the lift unless it is absolutely necessary - I've driven several hundred thousand miles in RRC's and D1's and they handle very well IMHO - especially if driven properly.

Standard tyre size for the '94 I had was 235/70R16 or 245/70R16 or 255/65R16 - 255's gave the most supple ride, but could be hard work in snow if they were road tyres ....

We run 245/70R16 AT's on our D1's all year round now and this is pretty close to the ideal for us.
 
A good few years ago I had an old RRC which I used pretty much just off-road. It was road legal but certainly wasn't the daily driver.
It had a few mods, one being a 2" lift, and running on 750's or 235/85/16's, it drove pretty well on the road BUT you always needed to drive it, it was tireing the level of concentration needed to keep it going where you wanted it, bloody dangerous at times.
If it wasn't for the fact that it was a very capable trials truck I would have put it right back on the std set up.
 
Henry_b said:
The RRC handles like a matress in a hurricane regardless .
Click to expand...

The first one (probably built in the late 'seventies) I ever drove frightened the life out of me on roundabouts :eek:
My '87 has the LR handling kit retro-fitted, you can chuck it around pretty much regardless as long as you're not silly.
 
Ratae said:
Do you actually NEED the lift for your usage of the vehicle?
If only for pose value then get rid of it & return to normal height.
Click to expand...

Have a look at 'off road fails' on YouTube, most of the one's that go base-over-apex are the over-lifted & over-tyred brigade :oops:
 
norseman said:
The first one (probably built in the late 'seventies) I ever drove frightened the life out of me on roundabouts :eek:
My '87 has the LR handling kit retro-fitted, you can chuck it around pretty much regardless as long as you're not silly.
Click to expand...
my 91 is post Anti roll bar fitment so it's ok.. o_O
But a Classic without them is :eek: :confused:
 
Depends on your setup. My 95 handles well with 2” coil lift can hammer it into the corners and itl grip and pull in no problem. I have it set up so the nose is slightly lower for handling. What coils/shocks you use is a big factor.
My 275/75 R16 are like huge cushions but small difference in pressures feels like somethings out. My guess is if it handles crap itl be like that if you rip lift out or not.

Classics ride like a tub naturally, id check your bushings, hubs, steering dampers etc first.
 
Early classics without rear anti roll bars were horrendous at speed on twisty roads. Down right dangerous in fact IF you were silly with them.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Depends on your setup. My 95 handles well with 2” coil lift can hammer it into the corners and itl grip and pull in no problem. I have it set up so the nose is slightly lower for handling. What coils/shocks you use is a big factor.
My 275/75 R16 are like huge cushions but small difference in pressures feels like somethings out. My guess is if it handles crap itl be like that if you rip lift out or not.

Classics ride like a tub naturally, id check your bushings, hubs, steering dampers etc first.
Click to expand...

Ah, that sounds like a sensible answer. Your setup is very similar to mine, with the big Tyres. I doubt the steering damper has ever been changed. I’ll do that with the bushes.

Thanks
 
Only slightly related to classic but consider this. P38 on air has four height settings, plus an extra lift position that is only used when chassis is grounded it is automatic and cannot be selected. Wading height is 40 mm or1.5748 inches above standard height. The system will not allow the car to be driven above 35 MPH in this setting. There is a reason for this. Driving around with a 2" lift P38 or Classic is going to break things, it also alters steering geometry and people wonder what is wrong.
 
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