tyregeezer

Well-Known Member
Hi all sorry have a question, cleaning rocker/air box and noticed loose butterfly's have found these in the inlet of the cylinder head luckey it stopped before valve, other box not so bad but a weep around filler neck, question 306dt seems identical have measured and compared apart from redundant butterfly's, does anyone see a problem with fitting 306dt on 276dt?
 

Attachments

  • 17247451425067489712964144863573.jpg
    17247451425067489712964144863573.jpg
    279.2 KB · Views: 26
  • 17247451767683148557691444828545.jpg
    17247451767683148557691444828545.jpg
    323.1 KB · Views: 26
Fitted cams, seals and timing pulleys, have just done cambelt.
Just going to fit vacuum pump and can prime the oil using millers, before fitting rocker covers, will use a catch bottle for turbo feed, still have intercooler to flush, everything else clean and ready, reconditioned turbo on way
 

Attachments

  • 20240902_133518.jpg
    20240902_133518.jpg
    317.8 KB · Views: 18
  • 20240902_133824_002.jpg
    20240902_133824_002.jpg
    350.3 KB · Views: 16
Looking good as always mate

Happen to come across this thread and see reports of the FF rocker covers cracking , assume that’s similar to around ur filler neck


At one point I wondered if the filler cap said 5/40 but alas says 5/30 , so the search continues for a 5/40 cap

O rings for these in case u may have looked for them and if there any use


Quote ref parts

Note that all 3.0d V6 engines (Jaguar and Land Rover) share the same parts. You may need to drill a small hole for the breather pipe in some cases (as I did).

Talking of butterfly valves are they a similar type to the Audi engines where a butterfly is placed inside the inlets plse

Hope u get on well and this may help in a small, way
 
Part 2 further down the page abut the filler neck


Below is a picture of the RHS cover from the workshop manual (basically a mirror image for bolt positions). The RH timing belt cover does not need much (if at all?) moving to access the 3 front intake manifold bolts.
One needs to remove the oil filler neck (Nr. 3 below) from old manifold and insert into new one. For this, be careful not to force on too strongly it is possible to snap off the plastic retention knobs protruding from within the manifold housing. Guess who did 😊. The neck need to be inserted at correct position and then twisted to secure it properly.

Above right is also the protrusion (arrow) that I needed to open by inserting a small drill and making small hole at its base (compare with old manifolds to make sure in your case). The breather pipe attaches to the outside of this protrusion. Same on both sides.

Once the camshaft covers (intake manifolds) are removed, give everything a good surface clean but be careful to avoid letting dirt and dust into the input/output valve holes and the injector holes. I used a vacuum cleaner with narrow hose attached to suck out all contamination from injector holes and then stuffed with kitchen roll. Also vacuum clean again before re-installing injectors, using new copper seals at base (Link).
 
Fitted today 2010 3.0L XF jag can confirm straight swap over identical apart from butterfly's, breather in correct place, needed nothing more than a clean, fitted with 2.7 gasket all good
Bought millers as per your recommendation thanks mate
 

Attachments

  • 20240904_203730.jpg
    20240904_203730.jpg
    288.3 KB · Views: 11
Fitted today 2010 3.0L XF jag can confirm straight swap over identical apart from butterfly's, breather in correct place, needed nothing more than a clean, fitted with 2.7 gasket all good
Bought millers as per your recommendation thanks mate

That’s awesome mate and a pat on the back for doing such a technical job , would take me forever to even attempt one

Will be interesting to see what u think of the millers, have been happy with it for the last 8+ years

Thks again for sharing such a great project
 

Similar threads