JonnyGate

JonnyGate

Member
Hi everyone. Ive had a look around to see if I can get any info about this but havent come across the same issue im having. So Ill try my best to explain the issue. My reverse light isnt working, went for all the basics, bulb, comtinuity etc and got a few wiring problems which i can get around, but my bighest issue is at the switch. I took the switch out and tested it, it works just fine, but it doesnt get continuity when its screwed in and reverse is selected, so i put the car on a lift, took the switch back out and looking into the switch hole got someone to put her in and out of reverse and i could see no movement in there. Its hard to see but it looks like theres some kind of plate, which i assume is meant to be connected to the selector that pushes forward and presses the switch. Does anyone know how tricky it is to get in and connect it back up? Or does anyone have any ideas how to set up another switch? I have a rear worklamp im going to fit too and think I may wire it up to the switch so i cant accoidentaly drive off with that beaming behinf me. I hope that all makes sense!!! Thanks in advance for any help.
 
I cant help with your reverse light problem but your work light could be powered up via a normally closed relay so if ignition is turned on the relay cuts the power to the work light.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-PIN-NO...ED-HOLDER-12V-DC-20-AMP-NEW-N-C-/290919977733

These are also good for daylight running lights, if the lights are fed from ingition fed normally open relay and then through the normally closed relay and the normally closed relay powered from light switch supply. The dlrl will come on with ignition and off when lights switched on and back on when lights turned off, and off when ignition turned off.
 
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You say that with the switch out you can press the plunger and it works both off and on?
On the back of the switch you should have two wires, one Light Green/Purple feeds the switch, and the other Green/Purple (or in some cases it may be
White!) goes out to the lamp.
The switch has a screw adjustment with a lock nut.
After checking that, with the ignition 'on' you have battery voltage to the Light Green/Purple, and with the plunger pressed, the lamp should light up.
Turn the ibngition 'off'
Remove the two push-on connectors, engage reverse and screw in the switch, using a multimeter to determine continuity every couple of turns.
You should reach a point where you read a short across the terminals.
At this juncture, screw it in andothe two turns and nip up the locknut.
Drop her out of gear, or turn the ignitiion 'off'
Reconnect the two spades and both the switch and reversing light should work.
You don't need someone rattling in and out of gear, as this can all be carried out by a single person ... even a married one might get permission to do it!
Let me know how you get on.
 
Oldseadog said:
You say that with the switch out you can press the plunger and it works both off and on?
On the back of the switch you should have two wires, one Light Green/Purple feeds the switch, and the other Green/Purple (or in some cases it may be
White!) goes out to the lamp.
The switch has a screw adjustment with a lock nut.
After checking that, with the ignition 'on' you have battery voltage to the Light Green/Purple, and with the plunger pressed, the lamp should light up.
Turn the ibngition 'off'
Remove the two push-on connectors, engage reverse and screw in the switch, using a multimeter to determine continuity every couple of turns.
You should reach a point where you read a short across the terminals.
At this juncture, screw it in andothe two turns and nip up the locknut.
Drop her out of gear, or turn the ignitiion 'off'
Reconnect the two spades and both the switch and reversing light should work.
You don't need someone rattling in and out of gear, as this can all be carried out by a single person ... even a married one might get permission to do it!
Let me know how you get on.
Click to expand...
 
Hi guys. Thanks for the replies. Would be good to fit one of the relays you mentioned, never wired into an ignition, will there just be a wire i can pinch power from. I may just put it on a switch on the fusebox i have for all the rear end power for now, it has one fitted as it is an ex utility one and theres loads of spare slots for new kit in the box. At some point when I have the dash out I will wire a relay into it (no doubt the dash will be out one day)
I cant seem to see how the switch adjusts. I need to see some kind of diagram of how the switch is pressed as I am sure “plate” in the box isnt moving at all. The switch is just the first part of the problem, the next is that the live to the bulb is dead, but the earth gets power, do you know if the earth is direct or it earth something else too? I was going to make the earth wire the live and put a new earth onto the body at the back.
Thanks again for the replies. Interesting reads.
 
Yer, sounda a good idea. Thanks for the help. New to electrics, so really enjoying learning about it. Its great when you get something working as you wanted!!!
 
Could be as simple as the switch isn’t screwed in enough? I take it R380 switches are adjustable like the LT77 ones? Should be a locking nut on the thread, undo this and screw the switch in until you feel it stop at the plunger end ( do this with reverse gear selected ! ). Trst the lamp and if it works, nip up the locking nut.
 
JonnyGate said:
Hi everyone. Ive had a look around to see if I can get any info about this but havent come across the same issue im having. So Ill try my best to explain the issue. My reverse light isnt working, went for all the basics, bulb, comtinuity etc and got a few wiring problems which i can get around, but my bighest issue is at the switch. I took the switch out and tested it, it works just fine, but it doesnt get continuity when its screwed in and reverse is selected, so i put the car on a lift, took the switch back out and looking into the switch hole got someone to put her in and out of reverse and i could see no movement in there. Its hard to see but it looks like theres some kind of plate, which i assume is meant to be connected to the selector that pushes forward and presses the switch. Does anyone know how tricky it is to get in and connect it back up? Or does anyone have any ideas how to set up another switch? I have a rear worklamp im going to fit too and think I may wire it up to the switch so i cant accoidentaly drive off with that beaming behinf me. I hope that all makes sense!!! Thanks in advance for any help.
Click to expand...
if reverse switch works once removed but not once fitted you will find that the yoke on the selector rod that has a machined ramp to operate switch has a groove worn in it ,solution is another yoke or weld up the groove and grind it smooth
images
 
If your switch has a washer you can try removing it, achieves same thing as above.
 
Hi guys. Thanks for the help. The switch isnt adjustable and theres no washer on it so it looks like it could be the yoke jamesmartin has mentioned. Been flat out so not had a chance to have a look in the gearbox as yet. Spoke to a local LR specialist and he said I should be able to see from the inspection chamber at the top, and local MOT tester said no worries for the MOT.....yet, but looks like it will be brought in shortly where you have to have a light when R is selected. Thanks again for all the help. Thumbs up to you all. Cheers
 
When they bring new rules in it does not normally affect cars before the rule change. Like seat belts on classic cars etc. But some times they say if fitted they must work.
 
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