original fault

gearbox was rough between gears, slipping , and pulling off would sometimes thump into gear

well , my son came over today

dumped the gearbox oil out,was brown

let it stopped draining , refitted drain plug and refilled it with around 3 x litres ,

hated trying to find a funnel and tube to fit the stupid sized refill hole , took ages to fill

pulled the intercooler hose off to gain access to the hole a lot easier

ran the engine and got the gearbox up to its 35-45 degree level point

on the haweye it said 35 degrees , with a probe thermometer in the filler hole read 40 c and an infrared 28 c

so refilled it with 4.5 litres total till it came out the level hole and allowed it to stop to a few little drips

went through all the gears

put the level plug back in with the engine running

I took it up the road , no thumps and very quite, smooth

also the slipping has totally gone

all the horrible juddering has gone , but this was on a 10 mile run and not a full
long run

it changed up and down the gears considerably smoother

after speaking to a few jatco specialists i put millers atf oil in it as they said they use it when rebuilding there gearboxes

cost 35 quid for 5 x litres

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=435&sector=Car

also spoke to their technical department with relation to this oil

so just thought of trying it and can then at least report back on here of my findings

so far im very impressed as the gearbox changes between gears extremely well and the best it's been since owning it


too soon really to say 100 percent but so far so good

I used an infered thermometer last time and maybe this caused me not to fill it at the correct temp

feel a lot happier this time and the results speak for itself with how improved the gearbox is

thks again and fingers crossed will of course report back over the months

appreciate as always the great help

Well done.

The theory of infra red thermometers is they measure heat radiation as opposed to touch. The red dot isn't really precise on most of them. So you could point it in the auto and be measuring the case to the left or be effected by the fumes from the diesel heater or other heat sources of radiation. They're not reliable for this sort of thing - pointing though a small hole. I try to measure electronic components with them at work and they're all over the place. Thermocouple used instead.

10 miles is more than enough to see a difference. Peeps have noticed the difference an oil change can make within a few gear shifts. It's been known to work magic on a number of different faults, but not always. Hopefully you'll be one of the lucky ones. Sometimes it seems to take a few miles to take effect but we guess this is it working it's way round the box and if the oil contains cleaners then they may need a bit of time to do what they do.

Hippo said:

Well done.

The theory of infra red thermometers is they measure heat radiation as opposed to touch. The red dot isn't really precise on most of them. So you could point it in the auto and be measuring the case to the left or be effected by the fumes from the diesel heater or other heat sources of radiation. They're not reliable for this sort of thing - pointing though a small hole. I try to measure electronic components with them at work and they're all over the place. Thermocouple used instead.

10 miles is more than enough to see a difference. Peeps have noticed the difference an oil change can make within a few gear shifts. It's been known to work magic on a number of different faults, but not always. Hopefully you'll be one of the lucky ones. Sometimes it seems to take a few miles to take effect but we guess this is it working it's way round the box and if the oil contains cleaners then they may need a bit of time to do what they do.

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thks mate

I made sure more importantly i took on board the great advice from yourself and others, who have got alot of experiance under there belts

ref the thermometers I just thought I would use all 3 and see how they compared and proved in how they took different readings as u quiet rightly said with regards to infered ones


I personally think it was under filled and not enough oil was being allowed onto the clutch plates and allowing the slip

strange thing is since using this millers the gearbox has never been so quiet and smooth since owning it, I've done the oils each and every year and used oem oil , just thought in for a penny in for a pound and tried this millers oil and a few jatco rebuilding specialist recommended it

the gear change up and down is quicker , smoother and quieter , took it to a hill where I knew it slipped even gently accelerating up the hill, I gave it a good kick down and pulled like a train up there with no effort what so ever , turned round and came up again , stopped half way and done it again , no slipping, thudding , nothing just pulled very hard

seemed like a new gearbox

fingers crossed it behaves , will report back over the months in order to give this oil a good road test , in different conditions etc and how it performs

maybe the oil change and a good drive to allow the gears to change as often as possible may have freed up any stuck selonoids and the clutch plates to be soaked in the correct level and clean oil has helped

a very good lesson in knowing how to test these boxes and step by step knowledge in there repair

thks again and like I said will report back over the months of my findings

Keep an eye on it just in case it's leaking. I don't think it will be but it's something I always warn peeps to do if they think auto oil level was low.

Hippo said:

Keep an eye on it just in case it's leaking. I don't think it will be but it's something I always warn peeps to do if they think auto oil level was low.

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thks, will be giving a power wash next weekend

plus just took this from the jatco book for ur interest

gstuart said:

thks, will be giving a power wash next weekend

plus just took this from the jatco book for ur interest

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Thanks. That will be this tube then:


DSCN3005 qCW8CI3


DSCN3009 Ktlfqpv



Fixx

cheers mate, so that is where it sits

was interesting in reading in how they specify the oil change, lol

on the Mazda boxes it's 60-70 , but they have a nice dipstick to check the oil level , lol

plus I saw that bolt warning in the book also

so good it's out there

gstuart said:

cheers mate, so that is where it sits

was interesting in reading in how they specify the oil change, lol

on the Mazda boxes it's 60-70 , but they have a nice dipstick to check the oil level , lol

plus I saw that bolt warning in the book also

so good it's out there

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I have a cunning plan for that bolt on one of my spares... It's annoyed me for many years. I've lost count of how many peeps on ere and else where have removed it.

When having Jatco problems myself I recall the dip stick on other models but can't for the life of me see why LR didn't insist the FL1 had it too. It may be due to oft road use and water ingress. But you just put a bolt in the hole instead and sell the dip stick as an after sales item if it's a problem. Well that's the way I see it.

I recently came across someone who had a similar setup to ours, in that you had to do the level check from the bottom with a tube inside. His was worse as he had to pump the new oil up the tube first. They must have had a good laugh at that idea in the design office that day. It was the main dealer that told him they do it the same way anorl. ound: