Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Full Member
As you can see I have a little issue with a shock absorber! As I hate the ride I'm going to replace the lot with Boge.

Given this one is just hanging, when I unbolt the other shocks, is there any need to put a ratchet strap round or a jack underneath? It looks like the shock just slot in. I'm guessing it would be a different matter for one of those fancy dampers that is under pressure.

Anything to be aware of other than EAS wires near the rear top bolt?

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P1020404.JPG
 
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From what I can remember....jack up axle to give a good droop, axle stands under chassis rails, lower onto stands, then lower the axle to allow the shock to open.

Undo the bolts, jack up the axle a few inches to compress the shock, then lower again, you should be able to remove the shock....

Compress the new shock to fit and bingo.

As you say a pressure filled shock would need the job done at full extent and axle dropp to get it to fit!
 
Cool. That looks a pretty simple job then. I can see the rear top nuts through the wheel arch.

What's the betting they're all seized?!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Cool. That looks a pretty simple job then. I can see the rear top nuts through the wheel arch.

What's the betting they're all seized?!
Click to expand...

without doubt.....prep with loads of penetrating oil first and leave to soak in. then using a large pair of Stilsons grip the shock body and undo the nuts!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Cool. That looks a pretty simple job then. I can see the rear top nuts through the wheel arch.

What's the betting they're all seized?!
Click to expand...

Bet they're not, rubber arms may be a problem:D

Easy to install Boge, two ways doesn't move unlike terriblefirma etc.
 
Ah, it currently has Terrafirma on the back. I thought it had them on the front as well but it turns out they were Britpart. Guess which one snapped?!

Stilsons: check. Got one in my plumb-bag somewhere.
 
Will have to remove the rear arch liners to get at the top of the rear shocks.
 
Saint.V8 said:
From what I can remember....jack up axle to give a good droop, axle stands under chassis rails, lower onto stands, then lower the axle to allow the shock to open.

Undo the bolts, jack up the axle a few inches to compress the shock, then lower again, you should be able to remove the shock....

Compress the new shock to fit and bingo.

As you say a pressure filled shock would need the job done at full extent and axle dropp to get it to fit!
Click to expand...

seems slightly complicated, as long as axle isnt hanging on fully extended shocker it matters little .if your fitting gas shocks that want to fully extend use large tie wraps or similar to keep shock compressed ,std shocks it doesn matter
 
wammers said:
Will have to remove the rear arch liners to get at the top of the rear shocks.
Click to expand...

I can see the nut through the gap for the chassis member. an I not just undo that and wriggle it down?

Actually, now I come to think about it, I'm not sure I've GOT rear wheel-arch liners. Hold on a sec, where's my torch ...
 
Brrrr. Frosty out there.

Yes, it does have liners but they only reach as far as the chassis rail. I can see the bolt holding the top of the shock in through a gap. A long extension bar should slot through no problem.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Brrrr. Frosty out there.

Yes, it does have liners but they only reach as far as the chassis rail. I can see the bolt holding the top of the shock in through a gap. A long extension bar should slot through no problem.
Click to expand...

Quite sure that liners were in when I dumped the newly installed terras for Boge
 
Druim said:
Quite sure that liners were in when I dumped the newly installed terras for Boge
Click to expand...

Cool. Quietly confident.

Maybe they put bigger liners in some models? I only learned today that later diesels had a different exhaust! Every day is a learning day.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Brrrr. Frosty out there.

Yes, it does have liners but they only reach as far as the chassis rail. I can see the bolt holding the top of the shock in through a gap. A long extension bar should slot through no problem.
Click to expand...

As long as you can get square on to it. They can be a little tight. I took my liners out not a big deal and makes life oh so much easier. But if you feel you can by all means do. :);)
 
It does look a little tight but that's not always a bad thing. :)
 
wammers said:
Using a twelve point socket and not being on dead straight can be a problem. Rounded bolt heads are a bad thing. :D:D:D
Click to expand...

Too true.

Am I right in thinking the bolts are flat hexagons? I probably ought to own a breaker bar but my record in shearing bolts off just using a normal spanner is frightening. With a lever that size I might break the car in half.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Too true.

Am I right in thinking the bolts are flat hexagons? I probably ought to own a breaker bar but my record in shearing bolts off just using a normal spanner is frightening. With a lever that size I might break the car in half.
Click to expand...

Put plenty of Plus gas on the captive nut end (inboard) over a couple of days. Yes single hex. Use a single hex socket on square and a breaker bar. Apply steady pressure, they can be seriously tight. Once moving work to and fro using more Plus gas until freed off. Put some Copraslip on bolt shank and threads on reassembly.
 
I'll pop outside now and have a squirt. Fresh out of Plusgas so it'll have to be WD.
 
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