I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler and I need step by step instructions on how
to install my new leaf springs. I went from the factory leaf springs
to Explorer Pro Comp (2.5 in.) Where do I place my Jack Stands
underneath my 1995 Jeep Wrangler and how do I release the tension off
of the springs? I appreciate your input.

On 18 Mar 2006 00:29:55 -0800, "weav" <marknlaurel@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler and I need step by step instructions on how
>to install my new leaf springs. I went from the factory leaf springs
>to Explorer Pro Comp (2.5 in.) Where do I place my Jack Stands
>underneath my 1995 Jeep Wrangler and how do I release the tension off
>of the springs? I appreciate your input.


Actually you need two sets of jack stand to do it properly and safely
and a floor jack or two. You want to raise font end and raise it
enough that the front wheels are about 3 inches above the ground and
place it on jack stand supporting the frame just aft of where the rear
spring attachement is. Place jack stands under axle but not really
supporting it at this time (maybe 1/2 inch clearance) and remove front
wheels. Use a floor jack to adjust the height of the front axle if
need be as you unbolt springs and remove them. When yo install the
lifted one use the floor jack to suspend axle while you readjust
jackstands supporting axle to get correct height to attach new
springs. One word of caution, before you get to deep into this, make
sure that you can remove the 4 bolts at ends of springs where they
attach to frame support because they can rust and become stuck and
make it a nasty job. If they are not "frozen" and you have some air
tools, you can do the whole job in less than 2 hours from start to
finish. With a extra set of hands I can do one in less than a hour if
the end bolts are not frozen. Air tools help a LOT with this task.

It is a 'big' job. The last one I helped on took 5 of us 2 full days
and we do know what we are doing.... We live in the rust belt.

When I had mine done on my CJ7, I took it to a truck spring shop. Took
them an afternoon and the use of a cutting torch in 'many' places. It
was worth the money.....

If you want to try it yourself, SnoMan outlined the jacks and stands.
You can use the wheels too. Just jack up the frame until the weight
comes off the wheels, then the wheels hold the leaf pack in place.
Easier with 4 axle stands though.

When you come to the rear hanger bolts and think they won't push out
without removing the gas tank, there is a trick to them. Remove the
outside half of the hanger first, then you can dig the rubber bushing
out of the frame hole. It is two halfs so you dig the outside half
out. This will allow the long bolt to tilt and come out without hitting
the gas tank.

With the kits I have seen, the pricks don't send you the metal core
tubes for the bushings to prevent them getting too tight so you have to
re-use the old ones. This is a major pain. They torched my old ones
apart and burned the suckers out. On the one we did in the field, we
used a drill and and drilled dozens of holes through he old rubber so
the core would release. I have heard you can use a threaded rod with a
pipe to catch it and a deep socket on the other side to push it to try
and press it out. The CJ haynes manual shows that method.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

weav wrote:
>
> I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler and I need step by step instructions on how
> to install my new leaf springs. I went from the factory leaf springs
> to Explorer Pro Comp (2.5 in.) Where do I place my Jack Stands
> underneath my 1995 Jeep Wrangler and how do I release the tension off
> of the springs? I appreciate your input.