J

jonnier

New Member
Ok, so I've accepted that the block is knackered, although no liner slip is evident, water is getting in somewhere, after renewing head gaskets and getting heads checked.

This week I shall get the engine out, strip it down and get it relinered.

Is there anything to look out for when removing the engine? Is it easier to remove just the engine or am I better off pulling the gearbox and transfer box out with it?

Thanks
 
Sorry it's my Disco 1.

I did think whether pulling out just the engine would be easier for now, though while it is out I'm going to have a look at the transmission as it'll be easier.
 
Transmission bolts that go on to back of block are a pain to get to, took me endless hours to undo, is it manual or auto? if its a auto dont forget to undo torque converter bolts, maybe take rad out first to avoid damaging, make sure all wiring is out the way and pipe work
 
It is possible to get the engine, gearbox and transfer box out in one go. Remove propshafts, gearbox cross member and possibly the slam panel for sake of ease then go for it once all the mounts are undone etc. Can be a bit unstable on the hoist if you're not careful though.

I took only the engine out when I did the engine in my V8 Auto RRC. If it is automatic, then be careful! One of the first things I did was to undo the four bolts that hold the torque converter onto flexplate/ring gear on the back of the engine. Then I disconnected everything from the engine etc.

Make sure you don't disturb the torque converter as it is a right pain to get back in place properly, there is a set distance between the four lugs on the torque converter and the edge of the bell housing. If this isn't correct then you will most likely find yourself with a dead gearbox as if it isn't in properly, then the oil pump in the gearbox has no drive!

When it got to the bell housing bolts I found it easiest to first undo the engine mounts, lift the engine up slightly with the gearbox still attached, it moves but be careful, remove the rubber mounts then bring the engine back down again and rest the engine mounts on the chassis. This made access to the top bell housing bolts a lot easier!!!
 
just (2 weeks ago) put in engine and box together into rrc, basically same as disco..

removing is easy..your choise if you remove as one or not...though it is possible as one , i would unless you got FECK off hoist/excavator(preferred weapon) remove lt230 first..

why you removing??if you dont need to remove gearbox then leave in place, bellhousing bolts are also real easy, just make sure you got 9/16 sockey, wibbly
joint and 2 or 3 12inch extensions for rachet.

if auto , i leave torque converter on engine, just be careful putting engine back in..
if manual...i would just remove engine to be honest..
1-2 hr job assuming exhaust comes off etc..
 
I guess it'll just be engine only then.

It's a manual with the R380? box.

Zen, it requires new cylinder liners. Exhaust won't be a problem, thats been apart and together a couple of times in my short period of ownership, having replaced the gaskets, then taking heads off and replacing head gaskets.

Best get cracking with it, I need to get it back on the road.
 
We've got a couple of looooong extensions to reach over the gearbox to get at the bell housing to engine bolts.

X2 on the torque converter, take some care as to how you split the engine and box, and check the flex plate for cracks.

Mine's a manual box but Philip's is an auto, hope to be getting his lump back in at the weekend if the weather plays ball.

Depending on how much you have stripped off, the exhaust manifolds are useful to lash lifting rope to, to keep the engine level and square rather than using the lifting eyes.

Peter
 
i would not be replacing liners..buy another engine..you can pick up 4.6 with warrenty for 450...OR if block is not fecked spend the extra dosh and get top hat liners installed..circa 800
 
jonnier said:
Ok, so I've accepted that the block is knackered, although no liner slip is evident, water is getting in somewhere, after renewing head gaskets and getting heads checked.

This week I shall get the engine out, strip it down and get it relinered.

Is there anything to look out for when removing the engine? Is it easier to remove just the engine or am I better off pulling the gearbox and transfer box out with it?

Thanks
Click to expand...

unless its top hat liners its pointless as its block that cracks
 
Yes they will be top hat liners.

Where have you seen those 4.6 engines zen, I had a quick look on eBay all seemed to be 3.9 or 4.0 engines for sale

Oh and I run lpg too. The engine needs to be reliable as I do a fair few miles with work, don't want to be going through this again in a few months.
 
Last edited:
Ok so a search on eBay today has revealed a couple of 4.6 options, but is it really worth the hassle?

I assume that I would need to swap out my 14CUX ECU for the correct GEMS one etc.

Or of course I could go down the Megasquirt route but then we are getting up to the same amount of money as it would be do get the engine sorted with top hat liners.
 
gems ecu is 25..not really breaking the bank..wiring is easy..and if you can wire up ms then gems wiring is really easy..no canbus to worry about:D..just needs ign,+ve batt,speedo pulse..and connections to fpr.starter etc..becm not required

or you could throw on but a bodge i admit your efi setup and run adjustable fuel pressure regulator setup to run more pressure to allow for the extra 600cc..type of thing used to allow boost on standard ecu.....but a bodge..
 
jonnier said:
Ok so a search on eBay today has revealed a couple of 4.6 options, but is it really worth the hassle?

I assume that I would need to swap out my 14CUX ECU for the correct GEMS one etc.

Or of course I could go down the Megasquirt route but then we are getting up to the same amount of money as it would be do get the engine sorted with top hat liners.
Click to expand...

yes but the ms would sort the slipped liners issue...just cos you fit top haters dont mean it will be good...the reason they go is gems ecu runs engine far to weak..with lpg that can be even worse...ms would allow you to run good maps for petrol and lpg...
 
So would I need to change the rail pressure, or fit a different fuel pump as well?

The attractive option at the moment would just to get a 4.6 and fit the GEMS ECU. Is it just a case of matching up cores on the loom to the GEMS plug, for the injectors/sensors etc.?

What about water? Is the cooling system, the same?

I would love to go the MS route, but not sure I can stretch the extra at the moment. Of course on top of that there is also the dyno time to get t all set up properly.
 
jonnier said:
So would I need to change the rail pressure, or fit a different fuel pump as well?

The attractive option at the moment would just to get a 4.6 and fit the GEMS ECU. Is it just a case of matching up cores on the loom to the GEMS plug, for the injectors/sensors etc.?

What about water? Is the cooling system, the same?

I would love to go the MS route, but not sure I can stretch the extra at the moment. Of course on top of that there is also the dyno time to get t all set up properly.
Click to expand...

most gems engines come with the loom...

cooling is/canbe the same but i have recored bigger rad..

you dont need dyno..just wide band sensor..and someone sitting next to you with lappy
 
So at a minimum I would need:

4.6 V8 Engine, and hope it's a good one, with loom
GEMS ECU
New clutch(might as well while it's out)

MS ECU as a possible option, with wideband sensor.

Then engine out/engine in fit ECU and should be up and running.
 
if using gems ecu then u be needing gems 4l flywheel too..(aint one for 4.6 all auto)
 
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