doriz
Well-Known Member
Creating a Flinstone special edition eh?
14platoon
Active Member
Making it easier for the garage to do a rear crossmember
I have just done my 110.
It's straight forward but far from easy.
It's held in by a myriad of rivets, some are aluminium and some steel. Some are obvious but some are countersunk and not easy to see.
The ones near the sloping bulkhead are difficult to access with a drill.
As I am changing the chassis, I removed the rear tub, but it was still awkward.
There are three longitudinal 'top hat' sections that are under the rubbing strakes. These sections are thin and you will probably break them....available from YRM.
You also need to get off the door threshold and it is likely that the self tappers won't come out.
You will also find that the rivets along the sides also fix the support cross members, so your new floor, I got mine cut to size from Metals4U, will not have rivet holes in and will need to be drilled. Mine was easy because I could stand the tub on end and drill through from underneath.
Mine had two square holes cut in the floor to access the top of the chassis so that a new rear crossmember could be welded on the top. Plates were then riveted to cover the openings.
To avoid a lot of hassle, this is not elegant but probably a good way forward.
It's straight forward but far from easy.
It's held in by a myriad of rivets, some are aluminium and some steel. Some are obvious but some are countersunk and not easy to see.
The ones near the sloping bulkhead are difficult to access with a drill.
As I am changing the chassis, I removed the rear tub, but it was still awkward.
There are three longitudinal 'top hat' sections that are under the rubbing strakes. These sections are thin and you will probably break them....available from YRM.
You also need to get off the door threshold and it is likely that the self tappers won't come out.
You will also find that the rivets along the sides also fix the support cross members, so your new floor, I got mine cut to size from Metals4U, will not have rivet holes in and will need to be drilled. Mine was easy because I could stand the tub on end and drill through from underneath.
Mine had two square holes cut in the floor to access the top of the chassis so that a new rear crossmember could be welded on the top. Plates were then riveted to cover the openings.
To avoid a lot of hassle, this is not elegant but probably a good way forward.
14platoon
Active Member
Thanks for the info mate, very very helpful.
14platoon
Active Member
Nice one mate thanks
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
A bit of a thread resurrection here - is the rear floor also sealed in position or is it just the rivets?
If the rivets are removed, it it just a lift out job?
Thanks for your help.
Mick
If the rivets are removed, it it just a lift out job?
Thanks for your help.
Mick
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
Many thanks - I don't want to take the floor out if it is stuck in!!
Why would you need it out ?
To repair the chassis / brake lines / fuel tank pump ?
Might be easier to cut a hole and fit an access panel ...
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
I have had the truck for a year and I have just got around to doing some care. I have just fitted rear outriggers and the chassis in better nick than I thought it would be. I want to be able to look after the chassis and what I like about the defender is the ability to take it to pieces - but I don't want to to take the tub off to care for it.
I am looking at the possibility of having the floor panel as a removable part. Good open access for regular maintenance. I want it screwed down rather than riveted, but I don't want to wreck it taking it out.
I will have to look at how it will work as I may have to add and alter bits. I might change the floor to 3mm galv or 4mm Ali as I want to use countersunk screws. That would also stiffen it up and be a bit better at stopping noise.
I am looking at the possibility of having the floor panel as a removable part. Good open access for regular maintenance. I want it screwed down rather than riveted, but I don't want to wreck it taking it out.
I will have to look at how it will work as I may have to add and alter bits. I might change the floor to 3mm galv or 4mm Ali as I want to use countersunk screws. That would also stiffen it up and be a bit better at stopping noise.
If it is anything like a Series there are about 80 spot welds around the edges as well as the visible rivets for the floor support crossmembers (four for each crossmember). On a SWB it is possible to undo all the tub bolts at the front and the rear crossmember to lift the tub about 3" which is enough to weld the top of the crossmember. Cutting holes in the floor is not necessary to do this, and will look a bit crude, especially if a couple of random-size rectangular holes without parallel edges and an equally random patch pop-riveted over the top when finished with oddly-spaced rivets.
