Alibro

Well-Known Member
I had a go at sorting my wheel alignment with string and as expected it's not perfect, so I plan to bring it to a tyre depot to do properly, but a while back I noticed the camber on a couple of wheels was a bit off. Today I put a spirit level on the wheels and found 2 a bit off and one rear a mile out.
A few years ago I had a MGF which three tyre depots failed to fix a pulling to the left and eventually I realised the camber of one rear wheel was a mile out and I put the problem down to this so I want to sort the issue.

Passenger rear a little out but maybe acceptable.

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Passenger Front Spot on

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Drivers side front a little out

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Drivers side rear a mile out

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I've had a look and can't see any obvious cause apart from the fact I replaced both lower suspension arms last year so I suspect the non adjustable one is a fraction too long.
So what do I do? I'll probably end up buying camber bolts to adjust it but looking for suggestions.
 
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Love the engineered block of wood :D.
But that said it does show a big difference on the 1 rear.
Roll the car 90 then 180 degrees tyre rotation then check again. just as a double check.

J
 
Love the engineered block of wood :D.
But that said it does show a big difference on the 1 rear.
Roll the car 90 then 180 degrees tyre rotation then check again. just as a double check.

J
A lot of care and attention went into adapting that piece of wood I'll have you know. ;)
It was pretty obvious when looking it it from the rear and moving it made no difference and if the wheel was buckled it would be very noticeable.
I had to replace the lower arms a year or so ago because the rear wheel was badly out of alignment. It was like that when I bought the car. Try as I did I couldn't persuade the adjuster to turn no matter how much heat and force and antiseize spray I used and as normal the long bolt was seized solid to both lower arms.
 
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A lot of care and attention went into adapting that piece of wood I'll have you know. ;)
It was pretty obvious when looking it it from the rear and moving it made no difference and if the wheel was buckled it would be very noticeable.
I had to replace the lower arms a year or so ago because the rear wheel was badly out of alignment. It was like that when I bought the car. Try as I did I couldn't persuade the adjuster to turn no matter how much heat and force and antiseize spray I used and as normal the long bolt was seized solid to both lower arms.

I don't know the FL setup it was just to check you weren't chasing something simple.

J
 
The only camber adjustment is in the bolts which secure the bottom of the strut to the hub assembly. There is some "wiggle" room in those bolts, so start there to get them even. From memory there should be a bit of negative camber, but I can't remember the figures off hand.
 
I vaguely remember getting a set of camber bolts with the 50mm lift kit which IIRC were for the rears. Are there already camber bolts on the front? I can't remember but I tried loosening all the bolts bolts and there isn't enough movement to sort the problem so I've ordered some of Ebay.
I found a set advertised for Freelanders at £28.44 and searched for the part number. I found the same for £26.99 so hopefully I've saved myself £1.45. 😝
 
Surely the wheel angle (camber) will also be affected by weight distribution in the vehicle.

Maybe all design figures were for tank of fuel etc. That has all somewhat changed in your vehicle !! 😀
Yeh, with IRS, looks like some lithium needs shifting to the back from the engine bay.

Or chop the springs down a bit :cool:
 
Yeh, with IRS, looks like some lithium needs shifting to the back from the engine bay.

Or chop the springs down a bit :cool:
The issue is only with one rear wheel and probably unsurprising after replacing the lower arms with aftermarket parts.
The front axle is close to the standard weight so any issues there have nothing to do with the conversion.
But yes I accept the excess weight in the back will have some effect. :)
 
The camber bolts arrived today and after 30 minutes or so the problem is sorted. :)
I already had the car on axle stands and the strut bolts loosened so it was a simple task to fit the new bolt at max adjustment and after tightening everything I refitted the wheel and it is now almost identical to the other wheel with just a little negative camber. I guess I was lucky to get it right first time but I knew the wheel was well out so figured full adjustment would be close.
This is the listing I purchased.
It was listed as being for a Honda Civic but is the same part number as the Landrover part.
I took it for a test drive and although it's hard to be sure I think it was pulling a little less than before so now I can take it for alignment.
 

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