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grinnal

Member
Hi Folks,
I need some help I have a 2012 Freelander 2 XS SD4 Auto, the radio has stopped working, It appears on the screen as blanked out, the phone connectivity has also stopped. You can select the Satnav but it just sits there initiating Along with this although the rear parking sensors work there is no sound coming through.
I have checked fuses etc and they are all ok
Has anyone had this issue and can provide some pointers ?
 
The only sure way to identify the issue is with a diagnostic read on the infotainment system.
Unfortunately the system is split up into multiple modules placed about the vehicle, all of which are linked by data buses.
So the only true way to identify an issue is to get the codes.
However the Bluetooth module is a known weakness, and causes all sorts of odd issues when it fails. The BT module on my i6 causes the sound to cut out briefly every minute or so. I'm going to link out the MOST loop temporarily, which should stop it causing the issue.
You could do the same as a test. The link out loops are available on Amazon for under £10.
 
Thanks I have got a Icarsoft I will plug in.
Does anyone have a map on where the units are located in the car?
 
Module locations are in the service manual.

The main audio controller is the part with the display and buttons. This unit is responsible for sending the data timing signals to the rest of the system, but it seldom fails.
Behind that is the CD player unit. Above is the touch screen display for the NAV.
The NAV controller is under the driver's seat.
The amplifier module is behind the RH boot side panel, the BT module is bolted to the top of the amplifier, and the DAB module if fitted is on top of those two modules.
The antenna for FM is integrated into the rear hatchback glass, with either a single or duel diversity signal booster (depending on the option chosen) under the inner trim at the top of the glass.
The NAV antenna is in the hump on the roof.
The DAB antenna is in the LH rear side window, with the amplifier module mounted above the roof lining near the window.
The parking distance module is mounted under the LH boot trim.
The whole lot is connected by a mixture of power, ground, medium speed CAN bus, or fibre optic MOST cables.
 
hi.. would these locations be the same for a freelander2 td4 on a 12 plate. Im specifically looking for the amp.. my speakers on the left side have started to crackle, even when i mute the radio. Im presuming its the amp, especially if its on the right side of the boot. High leve; brake light has been leaking...AGAIN...
 
Hi
I think it will be the amp is on the right hand side of the boot
Remove the floor and the anchor points on that side
Remove rear rubber and then you remove the cover support
You should be able to unclog the right side plastic
You will see the amp and the dAB unit bolted together
Hope that helps
The amp for it is the 40amp fuse in the fuses in the wheel well
 
grinnal said:
Hi
I think it will be the amp is on the right hand side of the boot
Remove the floor and the anchor points on that side
Remove rear rubber and then you remove the cover support
You should be able to unclog the right side plastic
You will see the amp and the dAB unit bolted together
Hope that helps
The amp for it is the 40amp fuse in the fuses in the wheel well
Click to expand...
thanks...dunno if i will be able to do anything with it.. but worth a look.. i think a replacement will be expensive, but there aint many other ways to sort it.. dilemma !!
 
Mine blew both amp and DAB unit
You can get a loop cable for the fibre optic to block out the DAB
See if that is the cause
I paid around £150 for a used amp and £100 for used DAB
If you think you have located the issue take the numbers of the unit and have a google you may be able to get a used unit
 
grinnal said:
Mine blew both amp and DAB unit
You can get a loop cable for the fibre optic to block out the DAB
See if that is the cause
I paid around £150 for a used amp and £100 for used DAB
If you think you have located the issue take the numbers of the unit and have a google you may be able to get a used unit
Click to expand...
the noise is there all the time, no matter what source, so i think the amp is prob toast.. then if i can find one im presuming it will also have to be programmed in.. what a pain
 
Hi
If you find one no programming required assuming you replace like for like
I changed both units and it worked straight away
 
rog4007 said:
the noise is there all the time, no matter what source, so i think the amp is prob toast.. then if i can find one im presuming it will also have to be programmed in.. what a pain
Click to expand...
The amp is behind the RH trim. It's unlikely to get wet, as it's a good distance up from the boot floor, although I have heard of an issue where the shock top mount seal wasn't fitted after suspension work, which allowed water to drop onto the amplifier.

Get a replacement with the exact same PN, and if you're lucky it'll work without any programming. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. I think it depends on if a software update has been done to either your system, or the system that replacement amp came from. You'll only know if it'll work when you've replaced it.
 
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