Chad66 · May 31, 2020

Hi everyone, I’m back after a working overseas! I gave my old D2 to my nephew having clocked up 168k without any failures. My RR 3.0SDV6 sport has also gone now but I’ve still got my D4 A bloke needs something to play with!
My next little project is to replace the cam belt, a full set of shocks, discs & pads all round. May I ask what your thoughts are on brand of parts? I don’t want cheapest, I want good quality but not main dealer prices. Was thinking of Brembo for brakes & maybe Dayco for cam belt kit? I’ve read Britpart are decent for the struts...?

lynall · May 31, 2020

Unless the D4 has the full monty 6 pot calliper brembo brake set up (unlikely but possible) then all the brakes marketed as brembo (usually through ecp) are just a branding exercise, ie people get sucked in by the name.
Greenstuff brake pads are very very good, dont get sucked in by the cheap ceramic ones normally painted red, they are utter dog carp.
Aftermarket brake discs are a minefield, cheap ones just dont last on such heavy cars.

Dayco are pretty much the go to land rover cambelt on all models.

As for the shox, you can replace just the shox themselves, but as they run through the air strutt itself, replacement involves o rings and the potential for air leaks and hours of fun!
People seem to use the complete Dunlop strutts, not heard any complaints, @gstuart has done his D3 so he will have real first hand advice.

If doing brake fluid, remember it needs to be Dot4 sl6 and not just plain old dot 4

gstuart · May 31, 2020

Hiya and welcome back to the asylum, lol

Wished to add what @lynall has mentioned , indeed fitted Dunlop’s on mine and must admit no complaints , they are OEM , also wouldn’t even bother messing around replacing just the airbags , best getting complete struts and fitting them as pairs are recommended

did buy new stainless steel nuts for the tops and brass pushfit air connectors as the voss connections are silly money

please feel free to give me a shout if I can help any more

hope that helps

Chad66 · May 31, 2020

lynall said:
Unless the D4 has the full monty 6 pot calliper brembo brake set up (unlikely but possible) then all the brakes marketed as brembo (usually through ecp) are just a branding exercise, ie people get sucked in by the name.
Greenstuff brake pads are very very good, dont get sucked in by the cheap ceramic ones normally painted red, they are utter dog carp.
Aftermarket brake discs are a minefield, cheap ones just dont last on such heavy cars.

Dayco are pretty much the go to land rover cambelt on all models.

As for the shox, you can replace just the shox themselves, but as they run through the air strutt itself, replacement involves o rings and the potential for air leaks and hours of fun!
People seem to use the complete Dunlop strutts, not heard any complaints, @gstuart has done his D3 so he will have real first hand advice.

If doing brake fluid, remember it needs to be Dot4 sl6 and not just plain old dot 4

Thanks for the guidance. Brembo is out then. I notice mintex discs can be obtained- that’s a name I’ve used may times over the years- they used to reasonable so might be worth a try. The air springs aren’t losing pressure but i think I’ll replace the whole unit- as you suggest those seals look a ball ache to work with.
It seems a bit excessive removing the starter just to lock the fly wheel! That’ll be a first.

Chad66 · May 31, 2020

gstuart said:
Hiya and welcome back to the asylum, lol

Wished to add what @lynall has mentioned , indeed fitted Dunlop’s on mine and must admit no complaints , they are OEM , also wouldn’t even bother messing around replacing just the airbags , best getting complete struts and fitting them as pairs are recommended

did buy new stainless steel nuts for the tops and brass pushfit air connectors as the voss connections are silly money

please feel free to give me a shout if I can help any more

hope that helps

Thanks for the tips. I’ll get the Dunlop complete units. I agree, false economy just changing the shocks, why turn a an hours job into a full fight?!
The d4 has reached 100k now so if there’s anything else that you guys think would be worth swapping out at this stage please let me know

lynall · May 31, 2020

Chad66 said:
Thanks for the guidance. Brembo is out then. I notice mintex discs can be obtained- that’s a name I’ve used may times over the years- they used to reasonable so might be worth a try. The air springs aren’t losing pressure but i think I’ll replace the whole unit- as you suggest those seals look a ball ache to work with.
It seems a bit excessive removing the starter just to lock the fly wheel! That’ll be a first.

You really really have to watch what name they are putting on their boxes this week, it really is a game of chance, sadly not always dictated by price.
I fitted Borg and Beck discs to my D3 a few months back, and now the shakes have started!

I would price up genuins discs and see how scary they are?

It seems to me a prodcuct gets a good name at a sensible price, then for no reaosn whatsoever they make it cheaper, and it goes downhill fast, then it moves onto the next make and so on.

I am not a fit genuine everything man, but as I get older (hopefully wiser!) I want the item to fit and do what I paid for it to do, and it seems the only way to gaurantee this is to go genuine!

sierrafery · May 31, 2020

For any kind of belts use Continental or Gates... IMO Dayco is sh*t

Chad66 · May 31, 2020

lynall said:
You really really have to watch what name they are putting on their boxes this week, it really is a game of chance, sadly not always dictated by price.
I fitted Borg and Beck discs to my D3 a few months back, and now the shakes have started!

I would price up genuins discs and see how scary they are?

It seems to me a prodcuct gets a good name at a sensible price, then for no reaosn whatsoever they make it cheaper, and it goes downhill fast, then it moves onto the next make and so on.

I am not a fit genuine everything man, but as I get older (hopefully wiser!) I want the item to fit and do what I paid for it to do, and it seems the only way to gaurantee this is to go genuine!

I know what you mean, it’s silly running an expensive car on cheap components!
Interestingly, the discs & pads that are on (fitted by an independent Landrover specialist) are less than 6 months old. They ‘look’ fine but I can feel the shakes through the wheel when I brake. I’ll let you know which I get & feed back on the quality

sierrafery said:
For any kind of belts use Continental or Gates... IMO Dayco is sh*t

i’ll price up an original belt and discs. Just for comparisons if I’m doing the belt myself, I should really buy an original as I’ll be saving £sss on labour. We shall see!

Stanleysteamer · May 31, 2020

Chad66 said:
I should really buy an original as I’ll be saving £sss on labour.

This should be embossed on the front of every Haynes manual!

lynall · May 31, 2020

Chad66 said:
I know what you mean, it’s silly running an expensive car on cheap components!
Interestingly, the discs & pads that are on (fitted by an independent Landrover specialist) are less than 6 months old. They ‘look’ fine but I can feel the shakes through the wheel when I brake. I’ll let you know which I get & feed back on the quality

i’ll price up an original belt and discs. Just for comparisons if I’m doing the belt myself, I should really buy an original as I’ll be saving £sss on labour. We shall see!

I have read over the last few years of quite a few D4s having warped brake discs/steering wobble, even genuine does not seem the answer in some cases, one guy gave up and sold the car!

Stanleysteamer · May 31, 2020

lynall said:
I have read over the last few years of quite a few D4s having warped brake discs/steering wobble, even genuine does not seem the answer in some cases, one guy gave up and sold the car!

If genuine doesn't work then they were never properly designed in the first place, so replacing with heavy duty/race-rally versions would have to be the way forward.

lynall · May 31, 2020

Stanleysteamer said:
If genuine doesn't work then they were never properly designed in the first place, so replacing with heavy duty/race-rally versions would have to be the way forward.

I think the guy I mentioned above tried all sorts, even new wheel bearings etc.

gstuart · May 31, 2020

Chad66 said:
Thanks for the tips. I’ll get the Dunlop complete units. I agree, false economy just changing the shocks, why turn a an hours job into a full fight?!
The d4 has reached 100k now so if there’s anything else that you guys think would be worth swapping out at this stage please let me know

hiya

ur so welcome , these guys are very good

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/land-rover-discovery-4-l319-2010-2016-80-c.asp

Call them if ur unsure of anything or ask here as plenty of us will always help

for suspension, link below where I got mine from , really helpful , they don’t come with the top 3 x nuts or air connector , personally I bought new stainless steel nuts and airline connector , used a brass pushfit instead of the voss connectors , those Voss fittings are around £14 each, I got the pushfits for around £4 each

https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/

plus a full online parts link for u

hope that helps and as always plse shout if u get stuck

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/12728

Chad66 · Jun 1, 2020

Priced up a genuine cam belt. The belt and tensioner £115
The deflection guide/pullies £49 each
All plus Vat of course.
So... I’ll be fitting genuine. Makes no sense skimping on something as important. I’ll just buy budget brakes & get a louder horn woola!!

gstuart · Jun 1, 2020

Chad66 said:
Priced up a genuine cam belt. The belt and tensioner £115
The deflection guide/pullies £49 each
All plus Vat of course.
So... I’ll be fitting genuine. Makes no sense skimping on something as important. I’ll just buy budget brakes & get a louder horn woola!!

lol, Ref the louder horn

would have also done the same as ur good self regarding genuine , also plse don’t forget the oil pump cover , I did replace the water pump at the same time seeing the timing and aux belt will be off

Chad66 · Jun 1, 2020

gstuart said:
lol, Ref the louder horn

would have also done the same as ur good self regarding genuine , also plse don’t forget the oil pump cover , I did replace the water pump at the same time seeing the timing and aux belt will be off

oil pump cover? Does this get broken upon removal? I can’t even find one on eBay..

lynall · Jun 2, 2020

gstuart said:
lol, Ref the louder horn

would have also done the same as ur good self regarding genuine , also plse don’t forget the oil pump cover , I did replace the water pump at the same time seeing the timing and aux belt will be off

He has the 3.0.

lynall · Jun 2, 2020

Chad66 said:
oil pump cover? Does this get broken upon removal? I can’t even find one on eBay..

Not an issue on the 3.0, on the 2.7 some pumps cracked and the cam belt tensioner fell off with disastrous results!

gstuart · Jun 2, 2020

Chad66 said:
oil pump cover? Does this get broken upon removal? I can’t even find one on eBay..

hiya

ooops, should have read u had the SDV6 , have seen some replace the oil pump at the same time , not always but for the belt and braces so to speak , also the rear fuel belt, on the D4 that’s timed

As a side note there’s 2 x options of oil pumps

https://extra19-5.ru/en/

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/l...pump-27-30tdv6-c2z31680-lr123716-922725-p.asp

on the D3 replacing the oil pump is a must , but a few have also replaced it on the D4

Hope that helps

ps, what year is ur D4 please ,

gstuart · Jun 2, 2020

lynall said:
He has the 3.0.

will teach me not to read it properly , lol

have seen a few fit the 19.5 oil pump cover on the D4s , think they’ve just done that ref crank issue

alas no reports back yet if it’s helped or not , too early to tell but would be great if that resolves the issue

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