Notapnala

New Member
hi all, will my 90 tdci run okay with half diesel half new cooking oil? I’ve seen a lot of posts but all the Defenders are td5’s or older? Wasn’t sure if the puma engines are okay with it?
Thanks.
 
Glad I asked then, thanks. Are there any more suitable to this? The Td5 or 300tdi , will they cope with it?
Cope, maybe for a while. Doubt if it is good for them either.
In any case, cooking oil is quite expensive now, so better stick with normal diesel, or get yourself one of the bio-diesel production kits.
 
Glad I asked then, thanks. Are there any more suitable to this? The Td5 or 300tdi , will they cope with it?


The thing is I genuinely think anything apart form diesel will cause long term issues on any diesel, even the tdis.
I have run my old cars on all sorts of old crap, and what you save up front tends to bite you in the arse when something expensive goes wrong.
 
Defender's aren't cheap to run or own, bite the bullet and use decent diesel....or sell it for a grossly inflated price and buy something more economical :D
 
The thing is I genuinely think anything apart form diesel will cause long term issues on any diesel, even the tdis.
I have run my old cars on all sorts of old crap, and what you save up front tends to bite you in the arse when something expensive goes wrong.

I've been using biofuel for years. Like well over a decade. I've never run on veg, but rather run the transesterification reaction, with some amount of care.

I think at my peak driving, I was doing 20k a year in a 300tdi. I had a grand total of two bio related problems, maybe three -

1) It eats natural rubber. Which means the IP front seal in rotary Bosch pumps. A reseal with viton resolves it.

2) wax point is way higher than diesel. So this isn't a "it'll break it" thing but simply that it won't run below a certain temperature.

3) and this one is borderline - the wire to the sender arm (that's actually submerged in the fuel tank) failed a couple of times over a decade or so. I don't think it should have failed that often, so I'll blame the bio for that.

So, really, only the front seal and that's it. And once you change that one, it's then good for, well...I've only ever done it once.

I wouldn't run veg in any direct injection engine without preheating etc. although a friend has done untold miles in his PD VAG engine with twin tanking. He is sufficiently risk adverse that he wouldn't even put my bio in it as it was an "unknown" to him, and he didn't want to risk it. With that level of attention things do work, but with the slapdash way a lot of people do things, I don't think there's any hope for running long term in much without issue.

I'm not sure if I'm agreeing or disagreeing with you now! I think most of these things are possible but not when people take short cuts.

We have a Freelander 2 (that won't run on bio because of the dpf regen cycle), a 300 defender (just back on the road - I'll never put mineral diesel in it and expect no issues - IP is the same one as off my old disco that did all the miles and is resealed with viton), and a 101 with an international engines 2.8 - again I've had the IP setup with viton.
 
Ps

Filed up the fl2 today. Bill was £99, and it wasn't even empty.

I've got a few ltrs of veg stored up (somwhere between 3 and 4000ltrs) and I still put diesel into the fl2 as I know bio will break it. Even at £100 a tank saving, I think it would break sooner than my break even point!

...but again, I can't forsee ever taking the 300tdi defender to the petrol station.
 
I've been using biofuel for years. Like well over a decade. I've never run on veg, but rather run the transesterification reaction, with some amount of care.

I think at my peak driving, I was doing 20k a year in a 300tdi. I had a grand total of two bio related problems, maybe three -

1) It eats natural rubber. Which means the IP front seal in rotary Bosch pumps. A reseal with viton resolves it.

2) wax point is way higher than diesel. So this isn't a "it'll break it" thing but simply that it won't run below a certain temperature.

3) and this one is borderline - the wire to the sender arm (that's actually submerged in the fuel tank) failed a couple of times over a decade or so. I don't think it should have failed that often, so I'll blame the bio for that.

So, really, only the front seal and that's it. And once you change that one, it's then good for, well...I've only ever done it once.

I wouldn't run veg in any direct injection engine without preheating etc. although a friend has done untold miles in his PD VAG engine with twin tanking. He is sufficiently risk adverse that he wouldn't even put my bio in it as it was an "unknown" to him, and he didn't want to risk it. With that level of attention things do work, but with the slapdash way a lot of people do things, I don't think there's any hope for running long term in much without issue.

I'm not sure if I'm agreeing or disagreeing with you now! I think most of these things are possible but not when people take short cuts.

We have a Freelander 2 (that won't run on bio because of the dpf regen cycle), a 300 defender (just back on the road - I'll never put mineral diesel in it and expect no issues - IP is the same one as off my old disco that did all the miles and is resealed with viton), and a 101 with an international engines 2.8 - again I've had the IP setup with viton.

Pretty sure OP was asking about veg oil.

Years ago I was obsessed with mpg etc, but as I get older I care less and less what my car does to the gallon, short commute helps as well.
 

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