zzr1200

zzr1200

Well-Known Member
I've replaced my brake master cylinder, I tried bleeding the brakes (old school) NSF, OSF, NSR and OSR, if I pump the pedal its hard/solid when the pressure is released and re applied the pedal slowly goes to the floor.

I'm thinking it needs power bleeding to remove any air in the ABS Unit, is there anyone in my area with an open Nanocom or Hawkeye that would be willing to stop by and lend a hand, or the only other option is the ABS Unit is toast.

There is a company in Derby that advertises that they rebuilds the ABS Unit, anyone had one rebuilt by them?

Advice or help, please...

Disco2Tdi5




 
First of all see how the vehicle stops while braking cos the D2's pedal will always go to the floor at a point so if it has a good braking distance nothing is wrong, i explained here Brake bleeding woes

eventually find a place to activate the HDC to kick in few times then pedal bleed again
 
sierrafery said:
First of all see how the vehicle stops while braking cos the D2's pedal will always go to the floor at a point so if it has a good braking distance nothing is wrong, i explained here Brake bleeding woes

eventually find a place to activate the HDC to kick in few times then pedal bleed again
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I've tried that including stamping on the pedal, braking distance isn't that good I have put best part of 3.5 Litres of brake fluid through the system so far.

I wouldn't want to even try HDC, with the pedal drop at the moment.

And I certainly wouldn't put an empty trailer on the hook, let alone full one....:eek:
 
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Is that master cylinder you fitted a branded one? if not that's the first suspect not the modulator.... as long as the modulator is not leaking it would not affect the pedal's movement too much if the fluid goes through it cos the active modes circuits are bypassed
 
A brand new master cylinder (ok a sh**part one), but the old master cylinder would occasionally by-pass pressure (allowing the pedal to drop) and the 3 amigos would come on, if I turned the ignition off they would clear for a while, then return when the pedal pushed through again...
I'm thinking that possibly an ABS unit internal one-way valve is by-passing or solenoid valve isn't seating correctly (a bit of dirt/seal material?), hence trying a power bleed might help.
 
Yes, power bleed is necessary especially for the active braking modes but your problem seems very similar with the one i quoted in post 2 where also a sh*tpart cylinder is involved and that guy power bled it too, i'm affraid that it can be a bad batch. I'd not blame the modulator yet, the 3 amigos are triggered by electrical issues the pedal's travel is not affected with ignition off by any electronic fault
 
sierrafery said:
Yes, power bleed is necessary especially for the active braking modes but your problem seems very similar with the one i quoted in post 2 where also a sh*tpart cylinder is involved and that guy power bled it too, i'm affraid that it can be a bad batch. I'd not blame the modulator yet, the 3 amigos are triggered by electrical issues the pedal's travel is not affected with ignition off by any electronic fault
Click to expand...
I'm fully aware of the reputation of some of the Britpart parts I've use enough of them in the past, I tried obtaining a better make but couldn't, not at a sensible price.

My understanding is that the 3 amigo's could/maybe triggered if one of the one-way valves or solenoid valve in the ABS unit are faulty or by-passing which could allow the shuttle to active a switch in the abs unit.
 
zzr1200 said:
My understanding is that the 3 amigo's could/maybe triggered if one of the one-way valves or solenoid valve in the ABS unit are faulty or by-passing which could allow the shuttle to active a switch in the abs unit.
Click to expand...
That's not how it works, 3 amigos have nothing to do with hydraulics, only active braking modes are affected(TC,HDC, ABS, EBD) when the 3 amigos are on, the mechanical pedal braking should work the same like on non-ABS vehicle(except the slight pedal drop caused by the modulator's expansion chambers) no matter what code is logged... Britpart can be used when it comes to pure metal bits where no rubber, electrics or moving parts are involved.
 
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This is what I'm basing my request for help on, Land Rovers own Workshop Manual:

upload_2022-8-13_19-28-5.png

upload_2022-8-13_19-28-35.png
 
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