Hi there, desperately wondering if anyone can advise me... I'm a girl and know bugger-all about cars! /

I have a 2006 Auto TD4 Freelander... (I wish i didn't right now!) Within a few minutes of starting the vehicle it goes into limp mode (this happens 8 times out of 10) the heated seat on the drivers side has stopped working (the button doesn't light up either but does work occasionally if the car is not in limp mode) The CD player isn't working... but the radio does. All this happened around the same time? Is it related or just coincidence?
Also F4 is flashing on dash.


I took it to a landcover specialist nearby and he told me it was a solenoid (sp.?) problem in the auto gearbox but that he won't touch it.... I've failed to find anyone locally who can help. Took it to a friend's garage and he said he's not sure he agrees with the diagnosis but doesn't know what to suggest either.

Has anyone had a similar problem or know what might be wrong with it? Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer )

Did you notice all of these faults suddenly starting to fail/appear over a short period of time?

Do the front wipers work ok?
When the engine is running, do the reverse lights come on when the auto lever is in reverse?
Does the PRND421 and SPORT display correctly on the dash when you move the gear lever?

Yer could try measuring the resistance on the barrel connectors. Doesn't always point to a bad solenoid but does give a good enough check to start with. They is located in front of the battery, behind the headlight, down near the auto gearbox. Barrel connectors:

Freelander 1 v6 Jatco Auto Gearbox - Measuring the Solenoid and Sensor Resistances

Thank you for your reply Hippo, the front wipers ae playing up as well... they get stuck mid-cycle if they are on intermittent.... they only work properly on full-belt.
Reverse lights seem to be okay with engine running.
Can't seem to get PRND421 to display but SPORT selects ok and shows on the dash.
I'll try to check out the barrel connectors first, as per your advice. Wish me luck! Thanks again

Am I correct is saying the faults are all intermittent, but when they happen they generally happen at the same time?

Yes, thats pretty much how it is

Hippo said:

Am I correct is saying the faults are all intermittent, but when they happen they generally happen at the same time?

Click to expand...

At first you would think the auto was an easy place to start. But I can't help thinking the faults are all linked. Especially if they're all intermittent and when they happen, then happen together. With this in mind I'm starting to think it's the switch on the rear of the ignition that's causing the problem. It's possible yer has a dodgy contact which is causing a greater than normal volt drop across the contact, which causes havoc with yer lec'trics intermittently.

With this in mind I would be looking to measure the volt drop across the ignition switch. To save faffing around with connections in the steering column, yer could measure the following:

volt drop from battery positive to fuse 29 and 35 under the steering wheel
put the heated seat on when measuring them
also try the same measurements with and without the engine running

Both volt meter probe's will be on the 12vdc power, but the probe on the fuses will be slightly lower due to resistance across the ignition terminals. If the terminal is dodgy then the volt difference between the battery positive and the fuses will be higher.

eg
battery positive =13vdc
fuse = 12vdc
results in a 1vdc drop

There will be some volt drop. but I'm wondering if yer has too much.

Wow! Thank you for your input. Sounds like you know what you're talking about!! Its booked in at my friend's garage for its MOT on monday so i will print off your reply and get him to check the above out! I will let you know how he gets on!

Hippo said:

At first you would think the auto was an easy place to start. But I can't help thinking the faults are all linked. Especially if they're all intermittent and when they happen, then happen together. With this in mind I'm starting to think it's the switch on the rear of the ignition that's causing the problem. It's possible yer has a dodgy contact which is causing a greater than normal volt drop across the contact, which causes havoc with yer lec'trics intermittently.

With this in mind I would be looking to measure the volt drop across the ignition switch. To save faffing around with connections in the steering column, yer could measure the following:

volt drop from battery positive to fuse 29 and 35 under the steering wheel
put the heated seat on when measuring them
also try the same measurements with and without the engine running

Both volt meter probs will be on the 12vdc power, but the end on the fuses will be slightly lower due to resistance across the ignition terminals. If the terminal is dodgy then the volt difference between the battery positive and the fuses will be higher.

eg
battery positive =13vdc
fuse = 12vdc
results in a 1vdc drop

There will be some volt drop. but I'm wondering if yer has too much.

Click to expand...

Ignition switch looks like this. I assume yours will be the same.


DSCN2854 FlFu40w

And when the plastic bit jumps out...


DSCN2856a KasBxsb