If you mean the EKA code and you have done it slowly and correctly( see below instructions) it usually means the door latch micro switches are fubar. The attached test sheet shows how to check the switch. The code can be also entered with a Nanocom. If you are not sure the code is correct the local dealer usually gives you the code with proof of ownership.
Start.....keyturned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells theBecM you are now
goingto enter the EKA Code>
Then<1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction andback to vertical for
eachtime.
Then<2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) directionand back to
verticalfor each time.
Then<3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction andback to vertical for
eachtime.
Then<4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) directionand back to vertical for
eachtime.
Finally,Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car"should" be
re-mobilised.
Itis very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully executeeach keyturn
ANDback to vertical (and no further).
Thedoorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
Theflashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending onhow the system
wasset up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
Ifthey are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom tore-mobilise the
engine.
Ifthe switches are inoperative then EKA entry may be simulated byshorting the wires at the plug(s)
ifyou have access to the inside of the door on the driver’s side withthe door-card removed.
Ashort between the Black Wireand the White wire simulates an “Anticlockwise” or “Lock”action of
thekey.
Ashort between the Black wireand the RED wire simulates a “Clockwise” or “Unlock” actionof the
key.
Thismay (at the very least) enable the EKA code to be entered and normalkey-fob locking/unlocking
andengine starting to resume.