G

Gurty

Member
Hi All

Probably a stupid question, but when you hear pinking, is it really that noticeable. My V8 runs really well (I think). I've timed it by ear as it were, advancing it as much as possible, but cant advance it anymore as the vacuum advance hits the water pump. I don't think it's pinking, but to be quite frank, being a series its that bloody noisy anyway, maybe it is.


And is it likely that it should need to be advanced further past the water pump.

Your comments muchly appreciated.

Thanks
 
If an auto, you could miss it due to cabin noise as it is going to appear at 52mph when the torque converter locks. It also can start pinking when running temperatures get too high if its on the limit.
 
Pinking is usually pretty audible and your motor will be larboard in low rev pulling
 
Sorry didn't read series but you get the jist.
I can hear it on my BMW above the Bosch 044 whiring away. Was fine in the morning and just starting to pink on the way home from work one hot day this summer.
 
Over advanced timing can cause pinking same as ****e fuel, leaky air manifold inlet, incorrect plugs, and incorrect air/ fuel mixture.
Check everything carefully may not just be one thing
 
Thanks for your replies. I'm sure it's not pinking and As mentioned appears to be running fine, so might aswell just leave it. I just wasn't to sure if it needed advancing more but can't because of the water pump getting in the way.
Is just me or are all Landy owners permanantly tinkering with them, trying to get them better. ��
 
I've got a 3.5 v8 in my series 2 with a single webber. I've done a bit of research on other forums dedicated to the v8 in kit cars and what I found to be the norm was to blank off the vacuum advance altogether and run it at 12-14 btdc.
From factory the rover v8 vacuum advance device was too weak even for su's and usually had to be timed to 4 btdc with it blocked and reattached after timing done.
Mines been at 14 for the last couple of years and haven't had any troubles and pulls real well through the range.
 
Although I'm aware of the principles I often think timing is a bit of a black art. My RRC 3.5efi auto tended to pink quite noticeably, not at the usual circumstances ie under heavy load but at 3000+ when winding it up in third gear (4sp ZF) especially on an incline. Even a (total) change to 'super' unleaded didn't seem to make any difference so I reverted to standard 95 as the LR manual states 'min 94' The official timing for this model year is TDC +/- 1 degree & I ended up retarding the ignition to that lower figure, which seems to have cured the problem. The car has only covered 51k so if that's the maximum advance it will accept I wonder if the dissy was set right at the factory, as a study of past ownership (only 2 keepers) leads me to believe 'tinkering' is unlikely.
 
after reading a bit on LZ it seems the norm that the TDC mark on the bottom pulley on a v8 is not always acriate
So when you set the timing at 6TDc it may well be 8tdc
So the marks on the pulley being the only point of reference (with out trying to work it out and re marking tdc )
Im going with setting it on the mark 6 and then adjust until it runs sweet

This is probably one reason why people quote different setting :confused:


thats my thoughts any way:D
 
The rrc I bought this year was getting about 130 miles to a 60litres of LPG. I did some adjustment advancing a bit every day. A week or so later I'm thinking I'm not happy with this, I've advanced loads and no pinking on petrol. I put my timing gun on and it read about 20 something btdc. I checked and found the crank pulley timing marks were miles out.
Daft thing was the previous owner paid good money for an LPG service not long before I bought it. You'd think they'd get it timed right. Maybe the dreadful economy made him get rid.
It now gets 165 miles. (I know its still not great but its not on lambda)
This is my 6th rv8 and the first to have incorrect timing marks.
 
When timing, you need to take out plug 1 and feel for when the piston is at tdc, use a screwdriver or something. Then verify the pulley marks.
With the vacuum advance no longer being used and set to 12-14 btdc you want to aim that the weights bring full advance in about 3000rpm.
If you need softer/stronger springs then check out reelsteel.Co.UK
 
I seem to remember 7 degrees per 1000 rpm is about right.

= 28 degrees btdc @ 4000 rpm

Am I going wrong foxy?
 
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