Joachim

New Member
In terms of prepping, painting and conserving a chassis on a running restoration project, where one strives to shy away from projects that will decommission the car for lengts at a time, what do you advice and advice against?

I am interested to hear about choice of chemicals (brands and type), tools, processes, neat tricks, tradeoffs, your reasoning for choosing what you did, lessons learned.... Of interest is also to hear about how well it holds up. How long ago did you do it? Is it still holding up now? If not, how long did it hold up?

All contributions are welcome
 
If chassis in good condition,power wash leave to dry well, then spray with fresh engine oil and diesel mix once a year. IMPORTANT to do inside chassis as that is where corrosion often gets a hold. When I paint more exposed parts I use synthetic enamel.
You could use products like Waxoil or Dintrol but I have done well for donkeys with the above,plus the job only takes minutes.
 
In terms of prepping, painting and conserving a chassis on a running restoration project, where one strives to shy away from projects that will decommission the car for lengts at a time, what do you advice and advice against?

I am interested to hear about choice of chemicals (brands and type), tools, processes, neat tricks, tradeoffs, your reasoning for choosing what you did, lessons learned.... Of interest is also to hear about how well it holds up. How long ago did you do it? Is it still holding up now? If not, how long did it hold up?

All contributions are welcome

What tottot said^^^^^ will work fine, but it is also possible to paint the outside with red oxide and enamel, if you want something that you don't have to redo, and a bit more pleasant to work with later.

As before, thorough jet wash, rub down, wash again, paint your preferred paints. I did mine in 2009 and it is still good now, except in a few places where topcoat has been knocked off by vegetation or minor ground impacts.

Oil is ok inside the chassis, dinitrol if you want to spend a bit more. The products are very much a matter of personal taste and budget, some like Dinitrol, some Bildt Hamber, some even like Waxoyl, I don't myself.

My chassis is 25 years old, and only a few minor plates on rear legs :)
 
^^^ as above. I used red oxide and satin black enamel paint. Every year I pressure wash leave to dry then spray black waxoil with a paraffin gun. Get into all the insides of chassis and spray, I also remove a door hinge screw and spray into bulkhead door pillars. Whatever you do avoid underseal, it will rot underneath it and look OK until it all falls apart.
 
I also remove a door hinge screw and spray into bulkhead door pillars.

Good point, I forgot about the pillars. I remove the doors completely, and spray dinitrol into the pillars through the hinge openings. If you are going to do this, it really helps to fit a stainless hinge screw set.
 
I also have done the bulkhead thing, and second divie on NOT using underseal.
If I go with someone to check out a landy and see it plastered in underseal new or old I walk away,you can be sure its hiding something bad either way.
 
For the primer and/or paint, do any of you use epoxy?

And, what is yor reccomendation for paint where other things are attached to the chassis... Like body, engine, etc, or where there is a really tight fit? I really want to be as thorough as possible without having to tear down the car completely.
 
I don't out anything on the outside of the chassis I just painted it and jetwash all the little crud traps regularly - that way I can see if rust bubbles are occurring and deal with it rather than them fester unseen.

I use dinitrol inside the chassis and bullhead and pillars and door frames - plan to do this every 3rd year ( I do 2500miles/year)

Some bikers don't like diesel apparently.
 

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