Buz

Active Member
I'm having the chassis replaced on my '87 90 to a galv one. Ive ordered some Mordent T wash to etch the chassis but not sure what to paint it with. I want to loose the shiny look and add another layer of protection while I can get to everything. I was thinking of hammerite under body seal but wondered what other stuff is available and fairly easy to apply?
 
Personally wouldn’t use hammerite after you’ve gone to the expense of a new chassis

would treat it inside and out with dinitrol , been very happy with the results on mine done over 5 x years ago

indeed others will be able to advise u , just going on mine after using dinitrol , plus would u mind sharing some piccies please as I start to rebuild it, many thks
 
Personally wouldn’t use hammerite after you’ve gone to the expense of a new chassis

would treat it inside and out with dinitrol , been very happy with the results on mine done over 5 x years ago

indeed others will be able to advise u , just going on mine after using dinitrol , plus would u mind sharing some piccies please as I start to rebuild it, many thks

Thanks, ive ordered Lanogaurd for the inside of the chassis. I'll see what I can do ref photo's, I'm not doing the actual work, ive not the space, knowledge, tools or time. I'll just prep the new chassis ready and pop over to see how its going as much as I can
 
Thanks, ive ordered Lanogaurd for the inside of the chassis. I'll see what I can do ref photo's, I'm not doing the actual work, ive not the space, knowledge, tools or time. I'll just prep the new chassis ready and pop over to see how its going as much as I can

ur so welcome and many thks if u do happen t9 get any pics plse

indeed put a plastic sheet down on my drive then the disco on top , my god it’s sticks to ur hands , also got some lances which really helped get everywhere inside the chassis , must confess not used lanoguard before , see dinotrol also do a spray detail sheet

hope all goes well for u
 
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I’d go with a hard paint first after an etch primer. By hard I mean a two pack but along with hard comes brittle risking the paint chipping.
I have just done a rear crossmember replacement so T wash, etch primer, a coat of two oack primer followed by a coat of two pack 50/50 primer and topcoat. This leaves the top coat dull enough to take a softer paint to absorb impacts.
I like having to touch up waxoil or softer underseals as it makes you have a regular close look at the chassis.
 
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Funny talking of paints etc as I once read where someone had used a marine paint on his chassis , same that was used on steel boats , alas don’t know what the long term outcome was

have heard great things with regards to the 2 pack paints
 
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Funny talking of paints etc as I once read where someone had used a marine paint on his chassis , same that was used on steel boats , alas don’t know what the long term outcome was

have heard great things with regards to the 2 pack paints
Enamel is much improved by adding a cup full of lead oxide powder. It’s one of the reasons series 1s are still around ;)
It’s a bit illegal but not many kids put a chassis in their mouth. :eek:
 
Etched mine with brick cleaner in a kitchen spray bottle then washed off (wear a mask)
Then painted with Dulux satin black gutter paint, still going strong six years later with no chips
 
Etched mine with brick cleaner in a kitchen spray bottle then washed off (wear a mask)
Then painted with Dulux satin black gutter paint, still going strong six years later with no chips
Dulux remain one of the paint manufacturers still using top grade chemicals in their products. In most cases their trade gloss is far superior to cheap synthetic enamels.
 
Buzzweld galv in one is another option. You can get in a rattle can.
Just trying this out as a top coat. Not keen on acrylic paints but it sure looks soft enough to take a stone. I used the chassis in one as it won’t be in direct contact with the galvanising.
 

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