T

tirukaly

Member
Hello! P38 DSE 2000. The illustration is in the video below. Have you got any idea why it's acting like that?

The long story is, all three amigos were always on. I checked wiring multiple times, checked ABS sensors, replaced brake pedal position switch, replaced ABS ECU, bleed the brakes several times. The only thing that helped is changing the ABS modulator. ABS fault and a light on dash then went away, but handbrake lamp stayed and TC started blinking (sometimes it's blinking faster when I'm breaking).
I was unable to find anything on these symptoms yet.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Do you have a Nanocom to check codes and live data?
Click to expand...
No, I don't have it. I did a self-test, jumping pin 4 and 15 in OBD2 connector and watching Check Engine flashes. It showed "Brake Pedal Switch - incorrect signal". Wiring and switch itself were obviously ok. This fault went away after ABS Modulator swap. There are no mistakes now.
 
Right to set the brake peddle switch you have to hold the brake peddle down whilst down pull out the plunger on the switch then let the peddle back up.
The switch is two way switching, makes one contact when peddle is up which tells the ecu brakes are not on and a contact when pressed down to put lights on and disengage cruise control. so if both are not right it will throw a fault up.
Hope that helps.
 
Hello. I set the BPP switch and bled the brakes one more time, but nothing changed: ABS is working, but warning and TC lights on dash are still on. I'm open to suggestions. Maybe ABS modulater should be bled electronicaly, like on some newer cars?
 
Did level go down much? If you get air trapped in the system can be difficult to clear. They do take quite a bit of bleeding.

Some have used power bleeders, the diagnostic bleed function is pretty useless tbh
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Did level go down much? If you get air trapped in the system can be difficult to clear. They do take quite a bit of bleeding.

Some have used power bleeders, the diagnostic bleed function is pretty useless tbh
Click to expand...
The level don't go down at all. For the last 3 weeks I spent at least 7 litres of break fluid, as I also thought it could be air somewhere.
 
Have you test driven the car after the work you've carried out.
I ask because me and my son have finished an axle swap, abs sensor drilled out and the two front sensors swapped. We had the tc fault light lit but no code present.
A combination of low battery staminer and a good test drive put end to it. Fault disappeared and all was good. The test drive allowed the system to self test and correct. This was on a 2000my. Hopefully this may be your case??
 
Mark Piercy said:
Have you test driven the car after the work you've carried out.
I ask because me and my son have finished an axle swap, abs sensor drilled out and the two front sensors swapped. We had the tc fault light lit but no code present.
A combination of low battery staminer and a good test drive put end to it. Fault disappeared and all was good. The test drive allowed the system to self test and correct. This was on a 2000my. Hopefully this may be your case??
Click to expand...
Well, I do 40 km on my P38 every day, so if a problem could be solved this way, it already would be solved. But thanks anyway.
I've written to Wabco, by the way. Couldn't get rid of the thought that TC is blinking some sort of a code, and couldn't find a right manual for our ECU on their web-site to read blink codes. I hope they will answer soon.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
have you had it plugged into diagnostic and read for codes?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately no, I can only read blink codes, connecting pins 4 and 15. It shows nothing now. I'm monitoring the market now for a Nanocom or something similar, which costs less than 600$ (almost my month's salary:D).
Off-top edit: I wrote about 600$ being my salary and then went googling an average monthly salary in the USA and almost choked - it's many times bigger. I was born in a wrong country :cool: A monthly salary in Russia is 250-300$.
 
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