dazer200

Well-Known Member
1999 P38 4.6 at last a P38 to play with !
Hi guys I have just been asked to help with a P38, after the last one I owned I vowed not to look at any RR in plain sight and now find myself owning one and enjoying (in some strange way ?) fixing it again !

Anyway here we go, I have RSW for the P38 so am going to try this to dionose the fault which seems to be ABS, I will add all I know about the car below.

Car has been at a garage and had new rear diff and axle complete, new rear wheel bearings and is back running, however it threw the ABS light up and the mechainic put snap on reader on and it said F/N/S ABS sensor air gap so he raised the car and pushed it down fully before trying to connect again and it seems as so no power to the socket and so he can not connect again to read, same reader and same socket ?

When the car was left idling the ABS light went out ! it was driven a mile no problems and then threw the light up again and still will not connect to diognose to the reader.

Apparently he did report that the dask lights played up on the 1 mile above drive (but he is a driver not a fixer if you know what I mean) thought I would add this in as well in case a connection that some have had before.

So basicly ABS light came on, read air gap incorrect pushed it down now will not read and ABS went off at idle possibly dash lights played up.
My plan is to put RSW on it and try and read this weekend and after your advice to the above.

As always any advice / knowladge is greatly appriciated from you all and sorry if I am slow to reply and thank you all that help.
 
Am I getting this right You start up drive ABS light goes out then comes on after about a mile. If so check to see if ABS pump is still running. If it is you could have a faulty pressure switch on the pump. I had this problem a couple of years back. Other wise if this is what ain't happening someone who knows about ABS will be along shortly.
Regards socket check fuses and wires going into back of socket as known to corrode
 
Am I getting this right You start up drive ABS light goes out then comes on after about a mile. If so check to see if ABS pump is still running. If it is you could have a faulty pressure switch on the pump. I had this problem a couple of years back. Other wise if this is what ain't happening someone who knows about ABS will be along shortly.
Regards socket check fuses and wires going into back of socket as known to corrode
Any ideas on what fuse powers the socket ?

Yes apparently when it idled the light went out and on the 1 mile drive it was fine when it got back the ABS light came on again so I think you are heading to right direction, its simple but finding it !
 
Any ideas on what fuse powers the socket ?

Yes apparently when it idled the light went out and on the 1 mile drive it was fine when it got back the ABS light came on again so I think you are heading to right direction, its simple but finding it !
Just look for the brake fluid reservoir a pipe comes out and into ABS pump. When the light comes on just feel pump to see if its running(careful may be hot) if it is thats your problem. I'm not sure which is the power feed to socket. Do you have a copy of Rave to check?
 
1999 P38 4.6 at last a P38 to play with !
Hi guys I have just been asked to help with a P38, after the last one I owned I vowed not to look at any RR in plain sight and now find myself owning one and enjoying (in some strange way ?) fixing it again !

Anyway here we go, I have RSW for the P38 so am going to try this to dionose the fault which seems to be ABS, I will add all I know about the car below.

Car has been at a garage and had new rear diff and axle complete, new rear wheel bearings and is back running, however it threw the ABS light up and the mechainic put snap on reader on and it said F/N/S ABS sensor air gap so he raised the car and pushed it down fully before trying to connect again and it seems as so no power to the socket and so he can not connect again to read, same reader and same socket ?

When the car was left idling the ABS light went out ! it was driven a mile no problems and then threw the light up again and still will not connect to diognose to the reader.

Apparently he did report that the dask lights played up on the 1 mile above drive (but he is a driver not a fixer if you know what I mean) thought I would add this in as well in case a connection that some have had before.

So basicly ABS light came on, read air gap incorrect pushed it down now will not read and ABS went off at idle possibly dash lights played up.
My plan is to put RSW on it and try and read this weekend and after your advice to the above.

As always any advice / knowladge is greatly appriciated from you all and sorry if I am slow to reply and thank you all that help.
RSW diagnostics for the P38 that covers the ABS? As far as I knew, for the P38 RSW only cover the EAS.
There is a fuse for the OBD socket supply, can't remember which one, it's in RAVE and I think the owners manual.
 
RSW diagnostics for the P38 that covers the ABS? As far as I knew, for the P38 RSW only cover the EAS.
There is a fuse for the OBD socket supply, can't remember which one, it's in RAVE and I think the owners manual.
Hi again mate and thanks for your reply, I have the paid for RSW EAS unlock V4 which will read ABS as well on early and late models, its quite good software for its money I bought it a few years back when I ran P38's and bit the bulliet, it also has BCEM functions on it as well.
 
Hi again mate and thanks for your reply, I have the paid for RSW EAS unlock V4 which will read ABS as well on early and late models, its quite good software for its money I bought it a few years back when I ran P38's and bit the bulliet, it also has BCEM functions on it as well.
OK, I'm obviously not up-to-date, I know that RSW do good diagnostics for the L322, I was not aware they also did it for the P38, every day is a learning day:)
 
OK, I'm obviously not up-to-date, I know that RSW do good diagnostics for the L322, I was not aware they also did it for the P38, every day is a learning day:)
Yes he started off with free P38 EAS reset as he was hacked off everytime it went into hard fault mode it was a stealer charge to re-set, I have spoken on email to him and he is helpful and easy (one of us) to get along with.
 
Yes he started off with free P38 EAS reset as he was hacked off everytime it went into hard fault mode it was a stealer charge to re-set, I have spoken on email to him and he is helpful and easy (one of us) to get along with.
I have the free EAS suite and a friend had the L322 diagnostics but as I have a Faultmate, I have never needed to look at any other diagnostics
 
:D:D:D:D:D that made me laugh,did you REALLY own a SUPER CHARGED:eek:;)
Little known fact I know, but yes...I did. I much prefer to travel under the radar in these instances, for the very mention of SUPERCARGED seems to pass almost un-noticed on here.

I also weldered the dreaded boron steel wheel arches you speak of, before skimming them in a clart of Isopon prior to spraying them.

I wish I'd kept it tbh, the engine and box felt very tight with little or no hairy moments.
 
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Little known fact I know, but yes...I did. I much prefer to travel under the radar in these instances, for the very mention of SUPERCARGED seems to pass almost un-noticed on here.

I also weldered the dreaded boron steel wheel arches you speak of, before skimming them in a clart of Isopon prior to spraying them.

I wish I'd kept it tbh, the engine and box felt very tight with little or no hairy moments.
Mmm,tight and no hair , you should have kept it.
 

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