I have a 1998 S-reg P38 4.6 V8 GEMS Range Rover that has finally immobilized totally.
The time line of events as to maybe gauge the problem better follows:
About a year ago it started occasionally not operating the tail unlock button, I did not do anything as it seemed only now and again, then it ended up just not working at all after about 3-4 months... I noticed that if the interior rear side lights did'nt work the rear door would not unlock, if they were on I knew it would open?! - whatever I lived without working tail...
Then soon after that the key kept loosing sync with the remote signal (did the turn one way hold button, then the other to resync about 15 times over another 3 months) until one day I go out batt is dead - I recharge and replace, (n.b. the previous owner had unplugged the remote receiver aerial so as to stop this drain issue) now my key would not resync, and now the car was immobilized... so I used the EAK code and could start the car and use it ok... But for the next few months (I know it needed sorting) I had to use the EAK code every time to start the car...
Finally the other day, the dash keeps saying the tail is open (when its not)... so it won't allow me to enter the EAK code as all doors have to be closed (and bonnet) to enable the input of EAK code.
I have tried to trace the wires and checked the boot switch with multi meter - the switch works as it should... Just found when taking photos whats what and fixed the boot not registering as closed issue (still wont open) - can now input EAK code and start it! phew... so issue was the middle catch wires see image - these need to be shorted to signal closed tail gate to the BECM...
As for completeness of the story... I went ahead and got my ECU "hacked" on ebay for £60 so the ECU does not wait for BECM start signal - you then just bypass the ignition and the starter and boom - it should start! I have attached the diagram given in instructions for this and also attach pics showing what I have done - but this hack does not seem to want to work at all for me? I have not soldered yet but even when i wiggle the wires I get nothing, and multi meter gets a path.
What could be wrong hear, did i do wrong wires?? (see pics)
If i was to try and bypass ignition and starter from the engine bay relay box what wires should i stick where? (pics very appreciated - i can take one for people to doctor if helps?)

Many thanks in advance for any help.
Sorry its so long but I felt details make it easier for people to find the root.

Dont think image posting is working for me? If ut us not I will reply with images from another machine soon.

Image post test... will this work? or do I have to upload to another site and link?

Nothing like bodging it rather than do a proper fix eh?
Boot button not operating is often the micro switches in the drivers door lock and that just might be the root of your problem.

Datatek said:

Nothing like bodging it rather than do a proper fix eh?
Boot button not operating is often the micro switches in the drivers door lock and that just might be the root of your problem.

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+1 for what @Datatek just said. Driver's Doorlock switchpack is the root of all evil.

I had removed the door lock to try and test it but was not sure what should short and when...I cleaned it, WD40 it and visualy inspected and wiggled wires... without sucsess.
I assumed because the EKA code was accepted without issue (now) that the micro switches worked?

How do I check this correctly - it only has 2 wires - what whould the correct readings be (short/open/resistance?) with regards to diffrent lock positions and switches?

N.B. once about 1 month ago I lent on the key while climbing in the back seat and it suddenly synced with car allowing fob to work and car to start normaly (this only lasted 2 days before failing again)

N.B. Image for the OP can be found @:
https://ibb.co/fUbmVJ

Thanks.

Go here and download Marty's door latch test guide.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/131722-info-front-door-latch-tests.html

Can I politely remind people NOT to disclose on a public forum any methods of bypassing or circumventing the alarm or immobiliser or locking system......

Well yeh I see what your saying - ish - But I still cant get it to bypass, so its not that efective and I have an issue that needs a bypass ligit (please help if you can, even with PM or whatever) - and you do need a reprogram of the ECU... its not like you can do this with just wires as the BECM sends an encryptd start signal to the ECU that wont start without reciving it... unless its been reprogramed.
And even then I doubt any thife can keep a P38 running for more than the next petrol station... somthing will stop it working.
Who would; a) Steal a P38, b) Use it for a bank job, c) Drive to a place where your life depends on your car working! - most unsutable car for any of those things.

These things are beyond hard to keep running even if your the owner and live next to a landrover garage and have shake money to throw at it.
Is there any info on how many P38s have been stolen? other than key theft, I bet its not more than 1 and that was found broken down 3 miles away.

pwood999 said:

Go here and download Marty's door latch test guide.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/131722-info-front-door-latch-tests.html

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Thanks this may proove very usefull - will repot back on sucsess soon...

medium rare said:

Well yeh I see what your saying - ish - But I still cant get it to bypass, so its not that efective and I have an issue that needs a bypass ligit (please help if you can, even with PM or whatever) - and you do need a reprogram of the ECU... its not like you can do this with just wires as the BECM sends an encryptd start signal to the ECU that wont start without reciving it... unless its been reprogramed.
And even then I doubt any thife can keep a P38 running for more than the next petrol station... somthing will stop it working.
Who would; a) Steal a P38, b) Use it for a bank job, c) Drive to a place where your life depends on your car working! - most unsutable car for any of those things.

These things are beyond hard to keep running even if your the owner and live next to a landrover garage and have shake money to throw at it.
Is there any info on how many P38s have been stolen? other than key theft, I bet its not more than 1 and that was found broken down 3 miles away.

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I can assure you, you don't need to tell me how the P38A Security system works, or how unreliable they are....

What I am saying is - if anyone knows how to get this thing working by bypassing things, or doing some fecking voodoo ****e on it - then do it in private messages....we do not want to disclose any potential methods of getting one running in a public arena for the obvious reasons.

If anyone can get your old key working it'll be @MrSporty on here. He's got an eBay shop I believe where he refurbs them.

If boot is acting up then EKA problems tend to go with it. Dodgy RF receiver tends to be associated with burnt out locks and immobilisation (diesel seems worse for some reason).

new door lock pack needed it has 4 micro switches in it ,,,see marty uyuk for replacement , then recharge battery fully -then re connect blue wire to rf receiver- then boom your away and never never never ever use wd40 on a rangie or anything else electrical , and as extra replace batteries in keyfob ,,, this was never the cause of your problem tis the doorpack , it also runs the bootlocl !!!!!!! anyway good luck and lets hope you haven't feked the ecu up with help from e-bay !!!!! regards mozz

mozz smith said:

new door lock pack needed it has 4 micro switches in it ,,,see marty uyuk for replacement , then recharge battery fully -then re connect blue wire to rf receiver- then boom your away and never never never ever use wd40 on a rangie or anything else electrical , and as extra replace batteries in keyfob ,,, this was never the cause of your problem tis the doorpack , it also runs the bootlocl !!!!!!! anyway good luck and lets hope you haven't feked the ecu up with help from e-bay !!!!! regards mozz

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+1 on Marty refurbed lock. He upgrades the microswitches from stock so should last much longer with no issues.

Grrrrrr said:

If anyone can get your old key working it'll be @MrSporty on here. He's got an eBay shop I believe where he refurbs them.

If boot is acting up then EKA problems tend to go with it. Dodgy RF receiver tends to be associated with burnt out locks and immobilisation (diesel seems worse for some reason).

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Thanks I'll see if MrSporty might have some helpful info for me...

mozz smith said:

new door lock pack needed it has 4 micro switches in it ,,,see marty uyuk for replacement , then recharge battery fully -then re connect blue wire to rf receiver- then boom your away and never never never ever use wd40 on a rangie or anything else electrical , and as extra replace batteries in keyfob ,,, this was never the cause of your problem tis the doorpack , it also runs the bootlocl !!!!!!! anyway good luck and lets hope you haven't feked the ecu up with help from e-bay !!!!! regards mozz

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Many thanks for the advice - upgraded micro switches sounds good - I always replace with better (if not too expensive)...
Could you please elaborate on Marty uyuk? I cant find him as a member here and dont get much back from google? - Could you please link to him/his store?

Many thanks in advance.

martyuk member send his a message "pm him" cheers

@martyuk I think your services are required.

Sorry, just seen this now that Brian has tagged me...

Entirely possible the door latch has failed. I think I actually have one available still which should fit a 1998 wiring wise.
My website is here: p38webshop.co.uk and if you look under the door latches section, you'll see the various ones I have. If you check out the one you need vs the VIN ranges, then you'll be able to see what's available.

Hopefully that is all that it is and the BECM hasn't gone into an alarmed state (I can help with that too! - but needs the BECM sending to me, and I'm away from Monday for a fortnight working/holiday). I have a mate who keeps a few parts for me to be able to send out if I'm away, so I should be able to send a latch even if I'm not here...

Yes, switches are replaced - the Key and Door Ajar switches in a RHF drivers latch are replaces with standard (0.1A contacts) but the CDL switch is replaced with one with either 3 or 5A contact rating (depends on what was available from supplier - it was originally 0.1A aswell) as I believe one of the reasons they can fail is because the tailgate motor grounds through the switch - so it probably wears the contacts a bit quicker than the others.

Hope this helps,
Marty

martyuk said:

Sorry, just seen this now that Brian has tagged me...

Entirely possible the door latch has failed. I think I actually have one available still which should fit a 1998 wiring wise.
My website is here: p38webshop.co.uk and if you look under the door latches section, you'll see the various ones I have. If you check out the one you need vs the VIN ranges, then you'll be able to see what's available.

Hopefully that is all that it is and the BECM hasn't gone into an alarmed state (I can help with that too! - but needs the BECM sending to me, and I'm away from Monday for a fortnight working/holiday). I have a mate who keeps a few parts for me to be able to send out if I'm away, so I should be able to send a latch even if I'm not here...

Yes, switches are replaced - the Key and Door Ajar switches in a RHF drivers latch are replaces with standard (0.1A contacts) but the CDL switch is replaced with one with either 3 or 5A contact rating (depends on what was available from supplier - it was originally 0.1A aswell) as I believe one of the reasons they can fail is because the tailgate motor grounds through the switch - so it probably wears the contacts a bit quicker than the others.

Hope this helps,
Marty

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Hi Marty,
Thanks for the info and link.
I see you do have one that looks ideal for my model
I'm trying to buy it and it says £70 on your site, then when i go to put in basket, there is a core charge or install options (£20, and £25)? I will be happy to install it myself but I don't seem to be able to buy it without the core charge or install charge added? Am I missing something?
N.B. what is core charge? is this the model you apply the electrical upgrades too? or are they all updated?

Many thanks in advance.

Core charge probably means you have to send Marty your old unit in exchange.