hi all i have a p38 1998 2.5 diesel auto brought it as a non runner imobilizer problem had the becm unlocked and reprogramed an then found out it was out a manual didn't run so had it reprogramed again today as it turns out every man and his dog as had a go at it as it is now i have got it running but it is ticking over at about 2500 rpm the injector light is coming on on the dash when it starts the aultinator isn't working but im unsure of withch engine is in it as ive been lead to belive that around 1998 was the change over from the early EDC to the late EDC engine could some one help with this a give me a clue wot to look out for to find out witch engine i have in my p38 cheers sam
gfromleeds
Well-Known Member
Mine got an ally monifold but has egr
Sure its not the origanal engine though cos its stamped with the bmw logo on the manifold and rocker cover
Sure its not the origanal engine though cos its stamped with the bmw logo on the manifold and rocker cover
Last edited:
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Non original.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
First step is to sort the alternator, the ECU's do not like low or fluctuating voltages.
If the other faults remain, the it really needs diagnostics, could be the needle lift sensor, crand sensor or a number of other things including the FIP if it's been messed with.
ya its been messed with its the amount of thing that has been played about with you would not belive would it be a posible that with the aultinator not working it not knowing wot rpm the engine is running at because its only the aultinator fault witch is cummin up on the dash board
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As I said, an alternator fault can play havoc, fix that first.
JohnnyCrash
New Member
Agree with the above once the Alternator is changed see what happens
If you still have high revs then you need to locate the FIP it’s hidden under the inlet manifold looking from the top or follow the leaks up from the bottom
Now you will need to slacken off the following bolts, the one in pink is a Bosch security bolt but a 7mm socket and a hammer solves that problem!
You don't need to remove the lid as I have in that pic that's another job for another day ;-)
Now move the slackened central section of the pump back and forth (towards the rad then bulkhead) with the engine running until you get the tick over at a nice steady 750rpm tighten everything up carefully as this will adjust it!! might take a few goes!!
If you still have high revs then you need to locate the FIP it’s hidden under the inlet manifold looking from the top or follow the leaks up from the bottom
Now you will need to slacken off the following bolts, the one in pink is a Bosch security bolt but a 7mm socket and a hammer solves that problem!
You don't need to remove the lid as I have in that pic that's another job for another day ;-)
Now move the slackened central section of the pump back and forth (towards the rad then bulkhead) with the engine running until you get the tick over at a nice steady 750rpm tighten everything up carefully as this will adjust it!! might take a few goes!!
NikTheGeek
New Member
Not sure I understand. Are you saying its non-original if it has BMW stamped on it coz mine is and does. Or do you mean it shouldn't for a particular model?
Mine is 2002 EGR BMW - see attached
Nik
Attachments
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Yours is the plastic one nick 1999 onwards
The previous was an alloy manifold without egr only the BMW 's and omegas had alloy with egr.
Yes all are stamped with BMW they are BMW engines after all
Last edited:
NikTheGeek
New Member
Yours is the plastic one nick 1999 onwards
The previous was an alloy manifold without egr only the BMW 's and omegas had alloy with egr.
Yes all are stamped with BMW they are BMW engines after all
Thanks for clarifying
bit of a update i replaced the altinator today its still over revving i have the injector light on on the dash no rev counter and the car simble with arrow under it light on aswell plus the air suspension isnt working nither wot dose the rev counter work off im starting to think the fault is along the lines of its running but the computer dont relise it is so wont let it drive anywhere
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Arrow is air suspension fault now you have given better details ie engine light on you need to get the crankposition sensor checked as the engine light and no revs is a good indication to a failing one, could be dirt misaligned get it checked .
also get your number four injector checked I'm afraid guess work is over time to get it on diagnostics .
If you add a little more info as to where's you live in your user details you might get someone with a kit that live near you that would help
Shame you have spent money already before getting it checked out as if the car was a working car it would of still run without an alternor working while the battery still had a good charge you would of just had alternator fault displayed and a better wallet .
That's the trouble we don't even know if its got the right fuel pump workings .
Got your self a misson here.
Before anyone say it wonk work with a BMW top it will but will do all sorts of strange things as I discoverd
also get your number four injector checked I'm afraid guess work is over time to get it on diagnostics .
If you add a little more info as to where's you live in your user details you might get someone with a kit that live near you that would help
Shame you have spent money already before getting it checked out as if the car was a working car it would of still run without an alternor working while the battery still had a good charge you would of just had alternator fault displayed and a better wallet .
That's the trouble we don't even know if its got the right fuel pump workings .
Got your self a misson here.
Before anyone say it wonk work with a BMW top it will but will do all sorts of strange things as I discoverd
Last edited:
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Crank sensor would be my first bet.
Up arrow is the EAS, usually an easy fix but you need the diagnostics, free software and a cable.
yes its been a mission already made a nowt to myself not to buy a non running p38 but the problem lie's with 2 meany people playing around with it not knowing wot they doin i have been quite lucky in the fact that i have found the other car that all the becm and other parts have came off and i know the local breaker well and have found someone local who has all the software for reprogram them just have to persavere with it and see how it go but all the help is greatly appreceated
Crank sensor would be my first bet.
Up arrow is the EAS, usually an easy fix but you need the diagnostics, free software and a cable.
For which you should PM Datatek
Yours is the plastic one nick 1999 onwards
The previous was an alloy manifold without egr only the BMW 's and omegas had alloy with egr.
Yes all are stamped with BMW they are BMW engines after all
EGR was introduced along with the plastic manifold in 1998.
