Alright,
Just got back from a Indie who, at the moment, will not be named in case I am wrong but I don't think I am...
When I got the P38, the rear diff was fooked, so had it replaced by these guys for a 4-pin (supplied by them) and was never quite happy with it as sure if continued to rumble between 35-55 on over run, but, having returned it they initially told me it was fine and it was the VCU at fault.
Now this panicked me as my previous P38 diff exploded due to this issue, however, I had not experienced the 'skipping' on the rear wheels when doing a circle or the ABS going nuts as the wheels were moving at different speeds, in my new P38...
Anyways, I bought a new VCU, went to fit, but thought I'd just check it and so did this:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XddClDAIfXw&sns=em]Range Rover P38 (P38a) Viscous Coupling (VCU) Test - YouTube[/ame]
As you can see, all was ok... So returned VCU (although had to pay restocking charge) went back to Indie and let them know. So they look again, agree VCU ok and say the front diff is knackered as input flange was very hot, hence this is the noise!
At this point I had already been talking to another Indie as have been loosing faith and so I had them confirm that the front diff had gone. They also said the rear rumbling may just be the bearings, however, it was hard to tell due to the front wine (which had started to develop).
So, not too worried as I was confident the front diff needed replacing, I have carried on regardless until December (2 months later) where the rumbling became more profound and when just slowly rolling under the autobox's own motion, you can hear the rear diff 'working'.*
Due to this, I thought I'd check the oil in the diff and it was black/metallic so off back to my 'new' indie to confirm that, yes, the 'new' diff was defo broken, which he subsequently did, so I could return with this info to the original Indie.
So, back to original Indie, asked to check, they did and confirmed diff gone and they would replace. This, unfortunately took them 3 weeks to get round to doing, as they 'couldn't get another 4-pin' (rubbish) so I offered to get one on their behalf and hey-presto, they managed to get one and I had her in there today.
However, I went to pick her up as agreed at 4.30-5pm and they were just STARTING to dismantle but said the VCU is frozen solid and that is why the diff has gone??? I challenged this and they 'showed me' testing it which was very different to how I've seen it down before (all wheels off deck, wrench on front prop and rear prop..)
Further to this and something I am fuming about, is that they had a 2-pin diff sitting next to my RR ready to put in and when I questioned this, they stared at it and said 'oh yeah'... My thought is that they were going to stick a 2-pin in and claim it was a 4-pin hence I am wondering what was put in her before...
Anyways, I told them to put it back together and left, very angry and thinking I have peed all the money I paid them to do the job in the first place up the wall...
So, I'm off outside in a bit to re-check the VCU using the method shown in he video, so my question is, is*this the correct 100% method to check the VCU (just to cover my arse)?
I have already booked the RR in with the other indie to check he VCU again next week, so at least I have a professional opinion.
Many thanks in advance from a very angry and frustrated Diehard
Just got back from a Indie who, at the moment, will not be named in case I am wrong but I don't think I am...
When I got the P38, the rear diff was fooked, so had it replaced by these guys for a 4-pin (supplied by them) and was never quite happy with it as sure if continued to rumble between 35-55 on over run, but, having returned it they initially told me it was fine and it was the VCU at fault.
Now this panicked me as my previous P38 diff exploded due to this issue, however, I had not experienced the 'skipping' on the rear wheels when doing a circle or the ABS going nuts as the wheels were moving at different speeds, in my new P38...
Anyways, I bought a new VCU, went to fit, but thought I'd just check it and so did this:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XddClDAIfXw&sns=em]Range Rover P38 (P38a) Viscous Coupling (VCU) Test - YouTube[/ame]
As you can see, all was ok... So returned VCU (although had to pay restocking charge) went back to Indie and let them know. So they look again, agree VCU ok and say the front diff is knackered as input flange was very hot, hence this is the noise!
At this point I had already been talking to another Indie as have been loosing faith and so I had them confirm that the front diff had gone. They also said the rear rumbling may just be the bearings, however, it was hard to tell due to the front wine (which had started to develop).
So, not too worried as I was confident the front diff needed replacing, I have carried on regardless until December (2 months later) where the rumbling became more profound and when just slowly rolling under the autobox's own motion, you can hear the rear diff 'working'.*
Due to this, I thought I'd check the oil in the diff and it was black/metallic so off back to my 'new' indie to confirm that, yes, the 'new' diff was defo broken, which he subsequently did, so I could return with this info to the original Indie.
So, back to original Indie, asked to check, they did and confirmed diff gone and they would replace. This, unfortunately took them 3 weeks to get round to doing, as they 'couldn't get another 4-pin' (rubbish) so I offered to get one on their behalf and hey-presto, they managed to get one and I had her in there today.
However, I went to pick her up as agreed at 4.30-5pm and they were just STARTING to dismantle but said the VCU is frozen solid and that is why the diff has gone??? I challenged this and they 'showed me' testing it which was very different to how I've seen it down before (all wheels off deck, wrench on front prop and rear prop..)
Further to this and something I am fuming about, is that they had a 2-pin diff sitting next to my RR ready to put in and when I questioned this, they stared at it and said 'oh yeah'... My thought is that they were going to stick a 2-pin in and claim it was a 4-pin hence I am wondering what was put in her before...
Anyways, I told them to put it back together and left, very angry and thinking I have peed all the money I paid them to do the job in the first place up the wall...
So, I'm off outside in a bit to re-check the VCU using the method shown in he video, so my question is, is*this the correct 100% method to check the VCU (just to cover my arse)?
I have already booked the RR in with the other indie to check he VCU again next week, so at least I have a professional opinion.
Many thanks in advance from a very angry and frustrated Diehard