Hi all, i have been a member for a while now but this is my first post,
I have been searching for hours for tips on removing a 2.5 BMW diesel engine from a 1995 P38 rangie manual, with leaving the gearbox in the car!
I cannot find anything, anywhere on this site or any other so I thought I would share my experience and hopefully gain a little from some of the more experienced guys on here!
After unbolting everything, (the top 2 bell housing to engine bolts were a nightmare! you can leave the aircon and power steering pumps to lay to one side but still connected to pipes) I found that by removing the intercooler there was enough room for the rad to lay forward enough to get the engine clear of the box!
I left the engine mounts in (bolted to the chassis) but it may be an advantage to remove them completely before separation.
NOW FOR MY FIRST MISTAKE!!!
I then proceeded to try and separate the engine, I pulled, lifted a little, dropped a little, pulled some more but could not get to come out!
I then recruited the help of 3 other guys and then with a loud ping, out popped the engine!!! Bang into the rad but luckily I had the foresight to cut a piece of hardboard to the same size as the rad and it did its job!
What I didn't realise (or notice) is that the clutch is a pulling kind, when you press the pedal the clutch is pulled open and not pushed as I thought all clutches did :doh: so now I have the old engine out, change what was needed over to the new engine and back it went, very easily
You can imagine my delight when I fired up my previously unheard £400 eBay engine and it purred (for a diesel) now for the test drive, what no clutch!!!
That's when I found out about the pulling clutch! Engine out again!!!
THAT WAS MY SECOND MISTAKE
I took the clutch plate off again and eventually refitted the thrust bearing to the clutch, refitted the clutch and proceeded to refit the engine, the problem now of course is that the clutch fork now needs to be hooked around the thrust bearing! With 3 and a half hours of pushing, wiggling, lifting out, putting back, I eventually got it back in
The problem now was that I had used the fork outer arm as help in getting the engine to mate and had bent it :doh: being cast metal it shouldn't be bent one way, let alone back but he who dares and it did, albeit with a cracking sound which is where I stopped, power bled the clutch and now it works but right on the floor and with a slight crunch
I believe that when I first removed the engine, I must have bent the clutch fingers! It's now going to mr clutch as I cannot bear the thought of losing any more skin off my hands
To sum up I think with the manual gearbox anyway the engine needs to come out with the gearbox! Or if you want to leave the box in then you will have to unbolt the clutch slave cylinder so that the fork can swing off of the thrust bearing!
I hope this info will be of use to some less experienced people like my self and if you would like to know anything else that I may have missed then I will do my best to answer
I have been searching for hours for tips on removing a 2.5 BMW diesel engine from a 1995 P38 rangie manual, with leaving the gearbox in the car!
I cannot find anything, anywhere on this site or any other so I thought I would share my experience and hopefully gain a little from some of the more experienced guys on here!
After unbolting everything, (the top 2 bell housing to engine bolts were a nightmare! you can leave the aircon and power steering pumps to lay to one side but still connected to pipes) I found that by removing the intercooler there was enough room for the rad to lay forward enough to get the engine clear of the box!
I left the engine mounts in (bolted to the chassis) but it may be an advantage to remove them completely before separation.
NOW FOR MY FIRST MISTAKE!!!
I then proceeded to try and separate the engine, I pulled, lifted a little, dropped a little, pulled some more but could not get to come out!
I then recruited the help of 3 other guys and then with a loud ping, out popped the engine!!! Bang into the rad but luckily I had the foresight to cut a piece of hardboard to the same size as the rad and it did its job!
What I didn't realise (or notice) is that the clutch is a pulling kind, when you press the pedal the clutch is pulled open and not pushed as I thought all clutches did :doh: so now I have the old engine out, change what was needed over to the new engine and back it went, very easily
You can imagine my delight when I fired up my previously unheard £400 eBay engine and it purred (for a diesel) now for the test drive, what no clutch!!!
That's when I found out about the pulling clutch! Engine out again!!!
THAT WAS MY SECOND MISTAKE
I took the clutch plate off again and eventually refitted the thrust bearing to the clutch, refitted the clutch and proceeded to refit the engine, the problem now of course is that the clutch fork now needs to be hooked around the thrust bearing! With 3 and a half hours of pushing, wiggling, lifting out, putting back, I eventually got it back in
The problem now was that I had used the fork outer arm as help in getting the engine to mate and had bent it :doh: being cast metal it shouldn't be bent one way, let alone back but he who dares and it did, albeit with a cracking sound which is where I stopped, power bled the clutch and now it works but right on the floor and with a slight crunch
I believe that when I first removed the engine, I must have bent the clutch fingers! It's now going to mr clutch as I cannot bear the thought of losing any more skin off my hands
To sum up I think with the manual gearbox anyway the engine needs to come out with the gearbox! Or if you want to leave the box in then you will have to unbolt the clutch slave cylinder so that the fork can swing off of the thrust bearing!
I hope this info will be of use to some less experienced people like my self and if you would like to know anything else that I may have missed then I will do my best to answer
