Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
check the vacuum pipes
bustersbus
Well-Known Member
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
This is a Truck http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/pix/trucks/hayes/hayes1.jpg
As you'll see it doesn't look anything like your rangerover. which is actually a large 4x4 estate car.
As you'll see it doesn't look anything like your rangerover. which is actually a large 4x4 estate car.
bustersbus
Well-Known Member
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
Nah, this is a truck
http://www.truckpaper.com/listings/...8&dlr=1&guid=E523514A312A437A8758B2A037C836FA
NO this is a TRUCK.
Attachments
open the bonnet and as you look at the engine bay on the very top right there is a diaphram thing with a throttle cable going to one side, and an air pipe on the other side. the air pipe will probably be perished like mine was! just get a bit from halfords and change it.. bobs your uncle!!
hope this helps!
CURLY
hope this helps!
CURLY
Hi all,
Just a note to say thanks to CURLY
I had the same problem happened on Monday.
Curly saved me approx £254. Let me explain:............. Phoned local RR dealer asked for a cost for replacement pipe Quote £254 + vat. You have to buy the whole unit.
Took Curly's advice local motor factor charged me 62 pence.
So once again thanks and thank God for this Forum
regards
Rob J
Just a note to say thanks to CURLY
I had the same problem happened on Monday.
Curly saved me approx £254. Let me explain:............. Phoned local RR dealer asked for a cost for replacement pipe Quote £254 + vat. You have to buy the whole unit.
Took Curly's advice local motor factor charged me 62 pence.
So once again thanks and thank God for this Forum
regards
Rob J
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
The pipe runs from the Cruise actuator along the bulkhead to the vicinity of the steering wheel shaft then goes inside to push on to a combination brake light switch by the brake pedal. One of the functions of this switch is to release the vaccum when the brake pedal is depressed to disengage the cruise. As previous members have advised, the pipe tends to perish and split, particularly under the bonnet and the small plastic "T" piece close to the "Bellows" breaks due to fatigue and old age.
dangermouse1977
New Member
This had happened to both the rangies I've had, it's the quickest and cheapest of fixes !!
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Usually on Rangies, the majority of fixes are straightforward simple things such as perished pipes or shorted cables. When they were designed, they put too many different systems in place without checking the long term durability. Nice to have the gizmos but what a pain in the ass when a hose perishes after 3 years or a compressor seal wears out and causes grief. The materials engineers at Land Rover donot have a clue when resourcing bought out items-as long as it outlives the warranty it's o.k. The poor sucker who bought the motor can stand the cost after the warranty has run out because he is a "Range Rover" owner and has a fat wallet to match-One has to keep up appearances don't you know!!!!
Although I love my P38, is it no wonder people are buying "Foreign" motors.
Let's get the forum rolling and let us know what YOU think.
Although I love my P38, is it no wonder people are buying "Foreign" motors.
Let's get the forum rolling and let us know what YOU think.
dangermouse1977
New Member
They also managed to put the cars together in such a way that many jobs require huge amounts of workshop time (I'm thinking heater O rings here)
Then problems occur that even the dealers can't sort - I've got a permanent "window not set" message for my drivers side window, even though the £1600 bill from the dealer reports replacing just about every part concerned with that window.
As you say, it's a 50k motor that has 50k motor running costs, even though they now cost a tenth of their new price.
Then problems occur that even the dealers can't sort - I've got a permanent "window not set" message for my drivers side window, even though the £1600 bill from the dealer reports replacing just about every part concerned with that window.
As you say, it's a 50k motor that has 50k motor running costs, even though they now cost a tenth of their new price.
Where is the connection by the brake pedal? I can not find the location. I only see one switch and no hose connection.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
The hose runs along the bulkhead and goes into the drivers footwell area through a grommet just to the right of the brake master cylinder. The brake switch has a nipple on it for the rubber hose to push on and serves two purposes, to put the brake lights on and to release the vaccum in the cruise control system, this disables the cruise control. The switch is listed as "Switch Control Pedal Vent" and is part no. ERR 2622 Cost £5.75 incl. V.A.T. approx.-Price from Rimmer Bros. price list. Check around the brake p[-edal area after removing the dash cover under the steering wheel and see if there is a loose rubber hose floating around which will reach down to the brake switch.
jonnyp38
New Member
High there, not much off a mechanic but i do have a workshop manual, in pdf format, on my computer. If you or anybody else needs it contact me by email and ill send it to you jonathan.smiley@virgin.net
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Just prise out the four caps covering the screws and pull the steering wheel towards you after releasing the locking lever, remove the pozidrive screws (2)visible just behind the steering wheel cowl.Remove the four pozidrive screws located where you have removed the caps and carefully lower the panel. If the vent hose comes off it can be secured with a tie wrap afterwards. You will then be able to see around the pedal mechanisms, brake/vent switch and hopefully the rubber hose which is approx. 8-10mm. dia.
