Dimebag 666

New Member
Hi all,

When i brake the pedal pulsates and makes a clicking noise. It happens under progressive breaking mainly and seems worse at high speed. The pedal will go rock solid on and off, feels almost like abs kicking in but it happens virtualy every time and is becoming scary :eek:

There's pressure in the system i think, fluid is new, ABS light is not on, no leaks or anything! I can perform emergency stops no problem, as i said it seems to happen under progressive breaking! :confused:

Does any1 have any idea of what this may be or offer any advice on how to diagnose. I thought maybe the acumerlator???

Thanks for reading :(
 
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Your brake pump is breaking up internally. The next symptom is no brakes.

Have a look on rangerovers.net there was a lot of talk about this in the states, even talk of trying to take Land Rover to court over it. Only read about it myself but there's a plastic component that breaks and gives those symptoms before the pump fails.
 
Hi all,

When i brake the pedal pulsates and makes a clicking noise. It happens under progressive breaking mainly and seems worse at high speed. The pedal will go rock solid on and off, feels almost like abs kicking in but it happens virtualy every time and is becoming scary :eek:

There's pressure in the system i think, fluid is new, ABS light is not on, no leaks or anything! I can perform emergency stops no problem, as i said it seems to happen under progressive breaking! :confused:

Does any1 have any idea of what this may be or offer any advice on how to diagnose. I thought maybe the acumerlator???

Thanks for reading :(

It's not the pump but 2 little plastic discs in the modulator. As dogsbody said look at rangerovers.net soon because the next symptom is total brake failure. A guy in OZ does replacement discs in stainless steel:)
 
Thanks for the info...

Would it be just as easy to but a used complete ABS unit and fit?

Bloody rr, things been nothing but trouble and expense recently, never again!!!

Cheers again
 
Groans buy a repair kit as the second hand one could be as bad- search clicking pedal as mine did this and we have covered it many times
 
Cheers fanatic,

just rang around a few local supposed "specialists" and no1 is willing to carry out the repair.. They seem to believe that it will costs 000's of pounds to diagnose going through a process of elimanation blah blah blah...

I am quite confident mechanically but really dont fancy this! Dont know what to do next??
 
Cheers fanatic,

just rang around a few local supposed "specialists" and no1 is willing to carry out the repair.. They seem to believe that it will costs 000's of pounds to diagnose going through a process of elimanation blah blah blah...

I am quite confident mechanically but really dont fancy this! Dont know what to do next??

1) Do it yourself, not too difficult and the bits come with full instructions.

2) Ring Emmots of Colne for a second hand modulator and give me the old one.
or
3) Burn it:rolleyes:
 
Hey,

So sorry, getting a little confused, is the modulator also known as the valve block or is it just a componant within it the vlave block?.. Its the 2 plastic washers in the modulator that are causing the click and failure yes?

Your suggesting that i find a kit and replace myself, there's used modulators on ebay for around £55, could i just replace the whole thing?

And i dont need a new pump or accumulator?

Thanks for your help
 
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there's a lot of info out there. back when a modulator cost close to two grand it made sense to do the repair. see this thread of mine from a while ago.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/twang-81763.html

on the other hand it could be something much simpler like the abs sensors on the wheels being dirty or needing to be pushed back in (they tend to lift out a bit sometimes).
 
thanks for that rasheed...

Just 1 point though, mine is a 99 4.6 auto, i also believe its a THOR engine, the v5 says it was first registered in December... How can i tell if i have the later bmw bosch job with s/s washers??

1 big question, please dont laugh, but what the hell is the modulator? I cant find a picture of 1 anywhere, is it the valve block/master cylinder which connects to the abs pump??

Thanks so much for your help and great job on editing that manuscript lol!!
 
Do you have the owner's handbook? Go to section on Traction Control. If your one has 4 wheel TCS its the new one. Older cars only had it on the rears.
 
thanks for that rasheed...

Just 1 point though, mine is a 99 4.6 auto, i also believe its a THOR engine, the v5 says it was first registered in December... How can i tell if i have the later bmw bosch job with s/s washers??

1 big question, please dont laugh, but what the hell is the modulator? I cant find a picture of 1 anywhere, is it the valve block/master cylinder which connects to the abs pump??

Thanks so much for your help and great job on editing that manuscript lol!!
The big lump of metal under the fluid reservoir. A secondhand one may have the same problem:)
 
Hi rasheed,

After speaking with Russel i can now, with some certainty, say mine is a later THOR model.

I have this morning followed a diagnostic from rangerovers.net... I note that after depressurising the system the pump ran for approx 45 seconds once the ingnition was turned on..

durring the 5 minute wait the pump then ran again..

i also noted that the pump runs everytime the brake is depressed..

i see no external leaks so i now believe it is my pump that is faulty (leaking internally) or just maybe a bad accumulator..

Any further suggestions would be appreciated,

Thanks everyone for the help
 
Start with the changing the accumulator. They are only meant to last 7 or 8 years to begin with and for the majority have far outperformed their design spec. A new one costs less than 100 and will outlast the car.
 
Hi rasheed,

After speaking with Russel i can now, with some certainty, say mine is a later THOR model.

I have this morning followed a diagnostic from rangerovers.net... I note that after depressurising the system the pump ran for approx 45 seconds once the ingnition was turned on..

durring the 5 minute wait the pump then ran again..

i also noted that the pump runs everytime the brake is depressed..

i see no external leaks so i now believe it is my pump that is faulty (leaking internally) or just maybe a bad accumulator..

Any further suggestions would be appreciated,

Thanks everyone for the help


Accumulator. Why go for the expensive option of blaming the pump when you have described accurately an accumulator failure?
 
Ok, It wasn't clear in the info i had from rangerovers.net that my symptons definatly pointed to the accumulater.... i thought that because the pump ran everytime i press the brake it must f#*~ed!!!

thanks for the advice, i'll order one tomorrow :)
 
Just to update on my problem,

Fitted a new accumulator today, brakes feel so much better but i still get the "clicking pedal" i note now that the pump activates every 5 to 10 depress's with the pedal going hard just once on an 8 mile run.

I also noticed that the modulator has a blue sticker at the front with a date of 1999, i assume that this could well mean the mod is an older version with the shoddy plastic washers.

Should i go ahead and repair the mod or should i look at the pump first? Any suggestions?

Cheers
 
Pump is functioning normally by your description. Clicking pedal is the modulator, how the F@#k do you thnk the pump can make the pedal click. You are obsessed with the bloody pump.
 
Should have been more clear, i get that i need to either replace the modulator or go with a repair kit...

My concern was that, having read the accumulator is good for 20/30 depress's and my pump is activating every 5/10, there might be an issue with the pump also i.e. on the way out! The last thing i want to do is replace that as well... obviously im wrong.

Excuse my concern but this is a family car, i drive my 15 month old daughter around in it so i want to be absoloutley certain i get it sorted!!!!!!!!!!
 

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