TAKdriver

Active Member
I'm looking at changing my 1997 2.5D for a 1999 4.6 Vogue petrol.
The Vogue looks pretty good and everything seems to be working. Good service history and tidy looking. I haven't been able to take it out yet but I'm not familiar with the 4.6. What should I be looking out for ?
He's looking for £6k which I thought was a bit over top end. Any advice ?
 
6k is a bit dear unless it is mint, 1999 was around the time they changed to the THOR engine which is definatley the better power unit.....it can be identified by the 'Banana Fingers' intake manifold.

Always check for any signs of cooling system issues, like traces of dried coolant in suspicious places.

Make sure she starts up with ease and no ominous blue smoke from the exhaust. Check for any tapping or ticking noises on startup (if left to stand for a while the tappets can leak back and take a few seconds to pump up again, but any startup ticking/tapping longer than 15-20 seconds needs investigating) also listen when she is warm and the oil has warmed up and thinned out.....top end is more than likely tappets, a lower down tapping/ticking could be a liner issue, although on the THOR engines it is rarer than the GEMS.

Contrary to popular belief, they shouldn't leak oil, at least not excessively. They should pull strong with no hesitation from initial acceleration, and the noise should be subdued and throaty (unless a SS or Cat -Back system has been fitted) Any exhaust rattles could be cats breaking down.

Check for the usual P38 things such as an eager EAS system, good looking air bladders, sniff the fuse box, check the Sport mode and Low Range function as they should. Steering should be direct, although if fitted with 18 or over rims, they can wander if the tyre pressures are anything other than 'just so'.

Just sit back and enjoy the V8 noise and grunt.....but 6k....unless it is a mint example or a nice looking 'Special Edition' model......I'd think of knocking him down or looking at others for a comparison......remember the Golden Rule with buying a Range Rover - Never ever buy a Range Rover with a fault no matter what the seller says, unless you understand and are prepared for the potential cost, time and heartache involved in repairing it.....
 
6k is a bit dear unless it is mint, 1999 was around the time they changed to the THOR engine which is definatley the better power unit.....it can be identified by the 'Banana Fingers' intake manifold.

Always check for any signs of cooling system issues, like traces of dried coolant in suspicious places.

Make sure she starts up with ease and no ominous blue smoke from the exhaust. Check for any tapping or ticking noises on startup (if left to stand for a while the tappets can leak back and take a few seconds to pump up again, but any startup ticking/tapping longer than 15-20 seconds needs investigating) also listen when she is warm and the oil has warmed up and thinned out.....top end is more than likely tappets, a lower down tapping/ticking could be a liner issue, although on the THOR engines it is rarer than the GEMS.

Contrary to popular belief, they shouldn't leak oil, at least not excessively. They should pull strong with no hesitation from initial acceleration, and the noise should be subdued and throaty (unless a SS or Cat -Back system has been fitted) Any exhaust rattles could be cats breaking down.

Check for the usual P38 things such as an eager EAS system, good looking air bladders, sniff the fuse box, check the Sport mode and Low Range function as they should. Steering should be direct, although if fitted with 18 or over rims, they can wander if the tyre pressures are anything other than 'just so'.

Just sit back and enjoy the V8 noise and grunt.....but 6k....unless it is a mint example or a nice looking 'Special Edition' model......I'd think of knocking him down or looking at others for a comparison......remember the Golden Rule with buying a Range Rover - Never ever buy a Range Rover with a fault no matter what the seller says, unless you understand and are prepared for the potential cost, time and heartache involved in repairing it.....

Thanks for the advice, Saint.
It was a trade in at my local indy and they know the seller ( and me) : they're tidying up some minor cosmetics and I had my first look this morning.
I'll try to get myself up to speed on the issues but will never reach the experience of you guys for which I am always grateful.
 
6k bloodyhell is it gold plated ???? There is 1 on the bay for 7.5k that's a Holland and Holland I think or a Westminster with only 70k miles and listed as collector quality, at the very least if you are looking for one get a Thor engine and 2002 last run at least for 6k you get a decent 4.2 supercharged for that sort of money.
 
I might be tempted to risk the liners, head-gaskets, oil leaks, front cover, oil pump, cheese cams and crank-seals and "upgrade" myself if I was a loony. :)

Or hadn't sunk so much time into mine fiddling with ...
 
6K is way over the top, unless it comes with a ten year parts and labour warranty..:D:D
 
Certainly pricey. But what's it worth? What someone is willing to pay for it!
 
Less miles and interior nice on the original but £4+k? Not in my mind but I'm not buying!
 
Gentlemen I am grateful to all of you for your comments.
It can be worrying when you find unanimity on LZ !!
I think that I will simply sink another barrowload of cash into my P38 2.5D which I have had for six years and thought I had dealt with all of it's problems.......what a naïve fool!
It failed its MOT on a fuel leak at FIP. I bought a replacement from Emmots....had it fitted and ....of course....it has the same leak....so back out. I'll get my original refurbd.
Thanks again.
 
Its proberly just the injector head seal leaking its common because of the low sulphur diesel we have now and is a few pounds to swop out....as you have the old pump sitting there why not refurb it your self on the bench
 

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