VVill

VVill

Member
Hi all,

Having a bit of trouble getting to the bottom of an issue, I bought a second freelander 1 TD4 from an auction site that needed a lot of work. I have managed to fix most of the issues but am now stuck. I am reading a fault code of p1637 - CAN link ECM/ABS Control Module Circuit/Network and the instrument panel is not working with all 3 amigos lit. I thought changing the instrument panel was a seperate issue to the fault code but having changed it for another working one have found the problem remains. The only information on freelander 1 p1637 I can find is linked to a technical bulletin (http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/freelander_(ln)/v6-2.5l/Page-1023001.png) suggesting a new link harness for the throttle body, the only problem is this bulletin is for 2.5 v6. Could anyone please advise if this is a known issue with TD4 as well. Also could somebody let me know if a faultmate would give me more information regarding the fault or would it just pump out the fault code as my OBD II does. Many thanks in advance and sorry for the ramble, not used to forums haha.

Regards,

Will
 
Thanks for the quick replies and useful information nodosh, will have a read up and hopefully get somewhere with it tomorrow
 
Thinking about it, if you aren't getting speedo data and you're seeing the 3 amigos, ABS makes sense as it takes and processes wheel speed data. Are you seeing anything on the dash at all? Are you getting a reading for fuel level for example?
 
Just popped out to look and no reading on the fuel gauge empty light is on and temp is at max with light on also
 
Do you know if a proper diagnostic would point towards a certain issue rather than just a fault code, I'm using a cheap OBD II with torque app, wondering if its worth getting it properly tested ?
 
I would doubt it. More advanced diagnostics read live values from various components. The issue you have is a lack of correct/appropriate values.

It's possible the fault code is wholly unrelated to the dash not working, or is only responsible for some of the faults you are seeing (3 amigos) and the dash not working is an unrelated fault.

Have you checked that the instrument cluster is getting sufficient power? I had a similar issue with my dash when I hadn't reseated a multiplug properly after fitting the factory spotlamp loom and the live feed was arcing. I was lucky not to fry it!
 
I'll have to take the dash out and test it tomorrow. I assumed that it was a bust instrument panel and replaced it with another, but it remained the same apart from the odo.
 
You need to check the can network on the car and work out what's not working correctly

Could be a module is down or wiring problens
 
Apologies if this is a stupid question but where would I begin with testing the CAN. Is it a case of a proper dianostic. I am really struggling as to where to start with this problem. I also noticed that the link in my original post to the tech bulletin was wrong, here is the correct link http://workshop-manuals.com/landrov...v/05/engine_controls_mil_on/dtcs_p0606/p0102/ it seems to match my symptoms exactly, phoned LR stealer to ask if it was also an issue for TD4 as well as 2.5 v6 and got as much help as if I asked a monkey the theory of relativity. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks guys
 
Did u have P0606 and P0102 before the other codes were cleared? Given that the harness only costs £20 + VAT/P&P, I'd order one anyway. Going to be cheaper than any CANBUS diagnostics!
 
I didn't have any other codes, but came to the same conclusion as you that for the money seems like a good thing to try. Been trying to look into the diagnostics side of things as can't seem to find an autoelectrician near me and came across this http://www.ukprodiagnostics.co.uk/p...25615-z=710953&p=94071.cfm#content_item_94071 would this be of any help to me with this issue. It seems that the p1637 is a generic code and I'm hoping that perhaps if I can read the ABS module I might get some further information.
 
I seriously doubt that a TB link harness for the US spec V6 will fit on a TD4. The 2 engines share no common parts, being built by 2 different manufacturers. I doubt that LR in the UK would even know anything about a US V6.
It definitely sounds like a CAN Bus fault. You need to be checking all wiring connections on the modules connected on the CAN.
 
Last edited:
Hawkeye from Bearmach is more versatile as it allows you to change the state of modules, including calibration, however it's more than twice the price and only allows single vehicle type use.

The i930 gets some good reviews and covers a lot of JLR specific codes and faults, and can be had for £80 or less if you shop around.

If you're looking for a tool that will tell you to unplug wire a, replace fuse b and recalibrate widget c and your fault will vanish, unfortunately that doesn't exist. Neither tool will fix your fault, but both may get you closer to understanding which systems and components might be implicated.

I would hang on to your money until you've had a chance to swap out that cable, but if you have other needs for a diagnostic tool, grab an i930 as even secondhand they go for £70+ (so you'll get your money back).

Edit: just checked and I can't find any reference to that harness on any td4 parts lists I can view. As Nodge says, different manufacturer and controls.
 
Lol, Nodosh wouldn't that be great if something existed that did would give you step by step to a fault. I was thinking of the diag's to try to localise the fault as I doubt I am anywhere near good enough at auto electrics to just blindy test the whole cars systems.
 
As Nodge says, check all your cabling and connectors on all the control modules, starting with the ABS connectors. Look for signs of arcing out corrosion on pins and plugs, look for chafing on harnesses and work your way around the harness. HDC switch, brake switch, abs sensors and associated harness sections and connectors will also need checking. After satisfactory inspection of each item, reseat the connectors, try and clear code and attempt to recreate the code.

If you are unable to clear the code at all with your current obd reader, the money spent on an i939 may be worth it.
 
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