Ryder · Jun 30, 2010

Hi folks...

We had the sump off the vehicle last week. Didn't disturb any components above that since we were changing the rear output seal.

Reassembled the vehicle and started it up only to find a clonking that would wake the dead - and it wasn't there before.

Now, I know that we haven't messed about with the oil pump per se... but would it still have requried priming? and what would the procedure be for doing so if we should have done?

Cheers muchly

Ryder

p76rangie · Jun 30, 2010

Ryder said:
Hi folks...

We had the sump off the vehicle last week. Didn't disturb any components above that since we were changing the rear output seal.

Reassembled the vehicle and started it up only to find a clonking that would wake the dead - and it wasn't there before.

Now, I know that we haven't messed about with the oil pump per se... but would it still have requried priming? and what would the procedure be for doing so if we should have done?

Cheers muchly

Ryder

If you have a motor without a distributor, there is not much you can do about priming except turn the motor over a few times.

If you have one with a distributor you can remove it, make up a suitable fitting to drive the oil pump and prime it using an electric drill.

But it should not have required priming unless you had removed more than just the sump.

classic kev · Jun 30, 2010

Ryder said:
Hi folks...

We had the sump off the vehicle last week. Didn't disturb any components above that since we were changing the rear output seal.

Reassembled the vehicle and started it up only to find a clonking that would wake the dead - and it wasn't there before.

Now, I know that we haven't messed about with the oil pump per se... but would it still have requried priming? and what would the procedure be for doing so if we should have done?

Cheers muchly

Ryder

Hey mate!

If the oil pump wasn't primed you would have no oil pressure and the oil warning light should have come on. The oil pressure switch is connected isn't it???

As indicated you can prime the pump by popping out the dizzy and spinning the pump with a drill. However, I believe it is suggested that whenever you drain the sump you are supposed to take the oil pump off, pack with vaseline to prime and then reassemble.

Did the engine get hot when you took it out? Did you get any top end rattle?

Ryder · Jun 30, 2010

classic kev said:
Hey mate!

If the oil pump wasn't primed you would have no oil pressure and the oil warning light should have come on. The oil pressure switch is connected isn't it???

As indicated you can prime the pump by popping out the dizzy and spinning the pump with a drill. However, I believe it is suggested that whenever you drain the sump you are supposed to take the oil pump off, pack with vaseline to prime and then reassemble.

Did the engine get hot when you took it out? Did you get any top end rattle?

No mate, didn't get hot and the clonking could almost be a fan blade hitting a pipe (but it isn't)

Frequency increases with engine speed and am going to investigate when Kai gets home to see whether it is present with the water pump drive belt disconnected.

classic kev · Jun 30, 2010

Ryder said:
No mate, didn't get hot and the clonking could almost be a fan blade hitting a pipe (but it isn't)

Frequency increases with engine speed and am going to investigate when Kai gets home to see whether it is present with the water pump drive belt disconnected.

Well that sounds a bit more hopefull, the prospect of an engine with no oil pressure is not a good one (ask Spyderman:doh:

) I do still wonder if you have a slack timing chain but I suppose there might be other running issues if that was the case.

Have you had the crank pulley off? (i'm clutching at straws here) If you did, was the crank pulley bolt done up again to the right torque - I can guarantee Kai would not be strong enough to do it.

Anyway good luck and hope you get to the bottom of it soon.

jonny427 · Jul 11, 2010

Can you tell me what front cover you have? Is the clonk a heavy clonk or light metalic clink. See if you can identify if its from the top or bottom of the engine.

Ryder · Jul 11, 2010

It's all sorted now thanks guys... kev popped over and noticed a distorted blade on the alternator that was connecting with the drive belt... simple and cheap fix - should have seen it myself but the addition of a nother pair of eyes was what was needed!

Mr Noisy · Jul 12, 2010

I'm shortly going to remove the gearbox on my 3.5.

I am going to fit a new rear main seal on the crank, is this done from inside or outside, behind the flywheel...?

Thanks, sam

Ryder

Having a senior moment

p76rangie

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classic kev

Well-Known Member

Ryder

Having a senior moment

classic kev

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jonny427

New Member

Ryder

Having a senior moment

Mr Noisy

Coming in your ears.

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