Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone can help with obd2 readings. I'm using an iCarsoft LR v1.0 and to be honest the manual is pretty useless for a beginner and the interweb isn't much better. So I've come cap in hand to you guys.
This was my last set of readings on 'Bender' FL1 2006,TD4:
Does anyone know if there are set figures for these readings, or know what they should be (approx).?
Also what exactly is the "Engine Roughness"?

LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00018>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>View Data>Overview:
Total Frames: 10 , Supported Items: 14
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 1/10:
Low Pressure Supply ----- 373.90
Airflow ----- 426.70mg/str
Coolant Temperature ----- 68.55°F
Engine Speed ----- 779rpm
Fuel Pressure Regulator Current ----- 0.65
High Pressure Rail ----- 4156.61psi
Inlet Air Temperature ----- 23.15°F
Manifold Pressure ----- 14.75psi
Pedal 1 Demand ----- 0.74%
Pedal 2 Demand ----- 0.37%
Battery Voltage ----- 14.35V
Capacitor 1 ----- 76.36V
Sensor Supply 1 ----- 5.01V
Sensor Supply 2 ----- 4.99V
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00018>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>View Data>Fuelling compensation:
Total Frames: 11 , Supported Items: 4
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 7/11:
Cylinder 1 ----- 27.51
Cylinder 2 ----- 8.29
Cylinder 3 ----- -0.52
Cylinder 4 ----- 4.40
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 8/11:
Cylinder 1 ----- 27.61
Cylinder 2 ----- 8.49
Cylinder 3 ----- -0.02
Cylinder 4 ----- 4.10
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00017>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>View Data>Engine Roughness:
Total Frames: 4 , Supported Items: 4
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 1/4:
Cylinder 1 ----- 758
Cylinder 2 ----- 792
Cylinder 3 ----- 772
Cylinder 4 ----- 786
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Frame 2/4:
Cylinder 1 ----- 758
Cylinder 2 ----- 792
Cylinder 3 ----- 780
Cylinder 4 ----- 790

Engine roughness, no engine will successfully spark in every cylinder every time. I suspect that's a report on number of successful sparks per cylinder, that with your fuel trim says there is a problem in cylinder 1

kermit_rr said:

Engine roughness, no engine will successfully spark in every cylinder every time. I suspect that's a report on number of successful sparks per cylinder, that with your fuel trim says there is a problem in cylinder 1

Click to expand...

KK,Tnx for info. looks like I'll be pulling out injector 1 again.

If you're doing that, swap the injector with another, see if the problem moves. Have you checked compression? What about air leaks?

No compression check. I've had a good look up top, can't see any splits etc. Going to do oil change sometime this week so will have a look at turbo vacs and hose while under there. On tick over if I pull injector plugs one at a time there is a really big difference on all of them.

The original turbo vacuum lines are cotton braided rubber and have a tendency to split inside the braiding, get yourself a roll of 4mm silicone and replace them all for piece of mind. That said, the turbo vacuum wouldn't affect the engine idling, nor the fuel trims so injector #1 deffinitely needs pulled, if possible I'd pull the four and get their spray patterns checked as there seems to be a bit of variance across them all.

Jayridium said:

The original turbo vacuum lines are cotton braided rubber and have a tendency to split inside the braiding, get yourself a roll of 4mm silicone and replace them all for piece of mind. That said, the turbo vacuum wouldn't affect the engine idling, nor the fuel trims so injector #1 deffinitely needs pulled, if possible I'd pull the four and get their spray patterns checked as there seems to be a bit of variance across them all.

Click to expand...

I was defo thinking of replacing all the vac lines with silicone. I’ll get and order it now. And I’ll have a look for injector services around Wiltshire area. Looks like I’m gonna have to sell my sax. Heyho.

Swap them round first, if the issue moves then you know you're onto something

Oops duplicated

Well, I managed to scrape myself underneath, got the sump guard off, drained the oil and fitted the new filter. While waiting for oil to drain I had a look at the turbo and boost solenoid. Well did I let out a whoop or what, a rubbed through vac pipe. It was only the breather pipe (the bottom one). Then the heavens opened up an I was drenched by the time I'd packed up my kit. Still if it's not raining tomorrow I'll get the solenoid off and have a look see if it's any good it's covered with dirt, so much that I couldn't get the connector plug out. With so much dirt and a hole in the breather pipe it's gonna be fooked. Thought. Would that dust/dirt make it's way on down to the vv controller?

came across this

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-p0263-solved.321078/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-p0263-solved.321078/
similar problem?? Was showing as a fault on inj 1 but turned out to be injector 3 which is next in firing order

Hi J_D,

J_D said:

came across this

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-p0263-solved.321078/
similar problem?? Was showing as a fault on inj 1 but turned out to be injector 3 which is next in firing order

Click to expand...

sorry it's taken a while to get back to you, but the weather has been crap and I haven't been that good either. I've had a good look at the link above and it might well be the same but I'm not sure.
I have now replaced all the vac hoses with silicon and I must say some pieces looked a bit dry and cracked but I don't think they were actually leaking. While I was at it I bought an EGR bypass/blanking and ended up with the "duck" under the bonnet, until I blanked the EGR connection near the vac cylinder. Thank god I read a thread about that.
Ol' Bender starts fine, but if I take him up to 2000 rpm I get the usual white smoke that smells like BBQ. I put the OBD on and took the readings below. Alas the fuel compensation numbers have got me confused as they are bouncing up & down.
Just out of curiosity I tried the bolts on the Crankcase breather (BMW type) and they were loose. Don't know how I came to miss them.
I cleaned the MAF, MAP and air temp sensor, checked for corrosion on the fuel pressure sensor and just about everywhere else. One thing I did notice that has nothing to do with my fiddling , when I pulled the plug on the Crankshaft sensor it just pulled off without me pressing the release tab, when I tried to put it back on it wouldn't click into place. With a bit of a sand down it fits ok now. It's a wonder it hadn't come apart on it's own.
I did a leak back test and the readings are:
1=2.75
2=3.25
3=3.75
4=5.00
(picture below)
If anyone can help with the readouts below I would be very grateful as I have no idea if they are within limits.

LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00023>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>View Data>Fuelling compensation:
Total Frames: 36 , Supported Items: 4
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Frame 1/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 27.11
Cylinder 2 ----- 11.09
Cylinder 3 ----- 2.18
Cylinder 4 ----- 21.99
Frame 2/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 5.22
Cylinder 2 ----- 12.19
Cylinder 3 ----- 2.88
Cylinder 4 ----- 21.99
Frame 3/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 25.71
Cylinder 2 ----- 13.29
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.68
Cylinder 4 ----- 22.99
Frame 4/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 23.81
Cylinder 2 ----- 14.69
Cylinder 3 ----- 2.18
Cylinder 4 ----- 0.60
Frame 5/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 22.81
Cylinder 2 ----- 13.99
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.18
Cylinder 4 ----- 0.40
Frame 6/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 23.91
Cylinder 2 ----- 13.49
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.38
Cylinder 4 ----- 21.89
Frame 7/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 25.61
Cylinder 2 ----- 13.29
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.98
Cylinder 4 ----- 22.99
Frame 8/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 24.91
Cylinder 2 ----- 13.39
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.28
Cylinder 4 ----- 0.10
Frame 9/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 26.11
Cylinder 2 ----- 13.19
Cylinder 3 ----- 1.38
Cylinder 4 ----- 22.79
Frame 10/36:
Cylinder 1 ----- 25.81
Cylinder 2 ----- 13.89
Cylinder 3 ----- 2.08
Cylinder 4 ----- 0.40
==============================================================
LANDROVER_EN_TEST_00023>Freelander>2001-2006>Smart Scan>ENG-BOSCH DDE TD4>View Data>Overview:
Total Frames: 13 , Supported Items: 14
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Frame 1/13:
Low Pressure Supply ----- 369.60
Airflow ----- 369.10mg/str
Coolant Temperature ----- 55.55°C --------------------------Yeah I didn't get Bender up to Temp.
Engine Speed ----- 850rpm -------------------------------------I had the heater fan running which pushes the revs up a bit
Fuel Pressure Regulator Current ----- 0.68
High Pressure Rail ----- 29682.37kPa
Inlet Air Temperature ----- 22.95°C
Manifold Pressure ----- 101.40kPa
Pedal 1 Demand ----- 0.75%
Pedal 2 Demand ----- 0.37%
Battery Voltage ----- 14.19V
Capacitor 1 ----- 76.26V
Sensor Supply 1 ----- 5.01V
Sensor Supply 2 ----- 4.99V

OBD_EN_TEST_00001>Vehicle Information:
CID1:7792938
CID2:2098688
OBD_EN_TEST_00001>Live Data>All Supported:
Total Frames: 42 , Supported Items: 10
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Frame 1/42:
Calculated LOAD Value ----- 50.2%
Engine Coolant Temperature ----- 50°C -------------------------------------As Above
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure ----- 100.0kPa
Engine Speed (Revolutions Per Minute of crankshaft) --- 849rpm -------As Above
Vehicle Speed ----- 0km/h
Intake Air Temperature ----- 13°C
Air Flow Rate from Mass Air Flow Sensor ----- 11.05g/s
Absolute Throttle Position ----- 0.0%
Certified OBD Requirements ----- EOBD
Distance Traveled While MIL is Activated ----- 0km

I googled white smoke, which says combustion not hot enough. Causes can be injector, fuel pump timing, fuel filter, contaminated fuel or low compression. Cylinder 3 seems constant low reading, don't know if that's good or not! So I would look at injector or compression test maybe.

I definitely think it’s injector just don’t know if it’s just one or three of them.

Guess I’ll have to take it to a diesel specialist the nearest is in Bristol.
Anyway thanks for all the help.

OK, so here's the latest update. I was booked into my local Land Rover dealer, W.J.Joyce, in Trowbridge, for a diagnostic (Testbook) today and the result is number one injector overfueling, which actually goes along with some of the info. given by a few of you guys. The Testbook cost me £50 + vat, should have just taken it there in the first place, could have been fixed months ago. Anyway as I've had 1,2 & 3 injectors out already I'm just gonna take 1 out again and get a refurbished replacement. Touch wood that will be an end to it. I will post again after to let everyone know if it's worked. I would like to say Thank You to all who helped with advice etc.