danchapman2k2

Well-Known Member
am hopefully getting a series landy soon. and was wondering what stuff i would need for greenlaning, like ropes etc what will i need on the landy like pull points etc. if someone could help me out and also where in essex we can get these items from?

thanks
 
hello fellow essexite ;)
first up where abouts in essex are you?

for greenlaning you chould be able to get away with D rings on the front and a tow pintle on the rear x-member (never recover off of a drop plate!!!!!!)

ropes and shackles i would either get them off e-bay or go to graytec in maldon (really nice people)
 
tow pintle??? like a toe hitch and the Drings what would you attach them to i would no more when i get my landy but i shall invest in some bits.

me and dan84 live in chelmsford we are hoping to get one each and have a go at it.
 
Right first 'essential' is a recovery buddy.... NEVER go laning alone, take two or more vehicles, and try and as a newbie, try and buddy-up with some-one with a bit of experience AND nouse.
As for 'kit', to be honest for the stuff you ought to be sticking top as a newbie, you can 'get away' with nothing more than a cheap petrol station two rope (or two), on the standard towing eyes and a spade or shovel borrowed out the garden shed.
your recovery Bud, if they are more experienced should have a bit more heavy duty kit to hand if they've been at it a while, if needs be.
Common sense and a little injinuity though are the MOST useful things to pack........
as for going and buying the 'goodies', depends on available funds, but top of the list, I put a CB.....
Recovery kit is there 'in case' while a CB is something you can get a lot more use from straight away. Its a good laught, being able to have a bit of banter with your fellow drivers, but also a big confidence boost if the lead driver can warn you of whats coming up, and talk you through tricker sections, or just keep you 'in touch' with whats going on, when the convoy halts or gets split up, or whatever.
After that, PROPPER recovery rope, around £25, is the next essential, and Jate Rings or recovery eyes on the front to hook it up, while at the back the jaw and pin tow hitch on a conventional tow bar is the most common recovery point, though some go for Jate Rings through the chassis as the tow bar can rob departure clerance.
My advice for a newbie though is to go for a tow bar and jaw, though, as the tow bar banging on the floor gives you some early warning of when you are reaching the limits!
After that theres all manner of 'stuff' you can go for, but a dedicated compact folding shovel is more conveniently carried than a garden spade; loppers and saws can be useful on severely overgrown trails, but again, can be borrowed from the garden shed.
Kenetic recovery ropes, bridles strops, bridging ladders, all that kind of stuff is really stuff to start thinking about only when you have encountered situations that demand it, and when you've got some kind of experience and idea of what and how often you are likely to encounter stuff on the trails you are most likely to drive.
Last advice then is on Tyres, and on that topic, for a newbie, I always reccomend a decent All Terrain.
Muds are great, but they will get drag you a long way into trouble before you realise it.
AT's not being so capable, will give slip a lot sooner and help you learn when traction is lost and how to drive for traction, without getting too into seriousely into trouble in the process, and as such are a great training tool.
Other 'kit' to consider if funds allow, for a newbie, simply becouse you are more likely to cock stuff up, is under body protection, such as steering guard (typically around £80) or diff guards (normally £15 an axle), but aren't essential, I've not had them on any of my Landies in ten years and all I've managed to ding in that time has been a £15 steering damper!
 
how much is a cb and also recovery points whats that??

so basicly rope and shackles and making sure my landy has something to hook the rope to. cb radio we were going to get walkie talkies does it do same job?

oh and we will ALWAYS be going together me and dan as its our little projects hehe
 
pmr radios are fine ... ;)

Personally my order of preference woiuld be

1. Go with someone
2. Recovery points, rated bow shackles and recovery rope
3. Extra rated shackles,extra rope/strops ... leave the winches and anything else until you know what you're doing ... ;)
 
how much is a cb and also recovery points whats that??

so basicly rope and shackles and making sure my landy has something to hook the rope to. cb radio we were going to get walkie talkies does it do same job?

oh and we will ALWAYS be going together me and dan as its our little projects hehe


you and dan can ALWAYS go together if it makes you feel better... just make sure you go with someone experienced and not just you 2.


Take note of Teflons post .. it must of taken him ages to type all that lot :D
 
CB before recovery points? Really?
Read what I wrote AGAIN.

A said a CB ahead of ADDITIONAL recovery points; if you have, as a newbie OE towing eyes they should be good enough to be getting on with, especially if you use that other commodity I suggest packing 'common sense' and bridle between both towing eyes to halve the strain on each.

Nearly all Land-Rovers and 99% of anything likely to be put through the rough stuff will have beam axles, and at a pinch, using that other commodity I recomend packing, injinuity, the lack of either towing eyes or uprated recovery points needn't be a job stopper as you can bridle round the axle....

May have to use the spade from the garden shed I also recomended carrying to get the straps round, but can be done.

Not the easiest way to do stuff, or the most elegant, but it'll work, and for a newbie, getting out there and getting experience, doing it the hard way, is the best way to learn what is and what isn't the most important kit to have.

Also gived the experienced 'Recovery Buddy' a good laugh, and a chance to crack out thier kit when the halfords tow rope gets snapped, and the newbie gets a practical demonstration of what can go wrong, and why better kit is worth the money......

how much is a cb?
You can get a 'cheap' CB from Maplins for about £40, to which you'd need to add an arial, for around a tenner, and the cable to connect it to the CB, and maybe an areal mount of some sort, starting at as little as a fiver and some bits of scrap metal or just a hole in a wing, roof or bracket.

That's the 'basic' set, around £50ish; if you want to go up-market, you pay pretty much what you like, top of the line sets go to over £200, and arials around £50ish, arial mounts similarly to around £50 ish.

I have a Midland 98+ which has never done well in the ratings, but on the lanes, always gets praised for the clarity of transmission and the range it achieves, that cost me I think about £90 with a thunderpole 'springer' areal, leads, and a button mount I've always had on home made brackets.

Have a look at these for a bit more 'gen' on the topic:-
also recovery points whats that?
At the simplest level, somewhere you can attach a tow rope!

Most cars have towing eyes on them front and rear as standard, its basically a loop of steel rod usually welded to the front cross member or something.

On a lot of modern cars, its actually a seperate part in the boot with the spare wheel, that screws into a socket somehwere, and they tend to be pretty flimsy, as they are only really designed for towing a car along a smooth road, not applying the kind of forces to drag a Land-rover out of axle deep mud.

Land-Rovers 'standard' towing eyes, are a bit beefier, and they ARE designed to take a bit more force. Caution in the owners book states that they are 'towing eyes' not 'recovery points' as a bit of liability limitation, but they are over engineered in anticipation of people using them for off-road recovery.

A 'Recovery' point then, is usually used to reffer to a 'stronger' or 'Heavy Duty' towing eye thats intended to take the much higher forces of off-road recovery where the car is likely to be subject to the drag of axle or chassis deep gloop, rather than just the rolling resistance of the wheels against tarmac.

There are plenty of different ones on the market, but the more common ones are incorporated into other accessories like a winch bumper or a steering guard.

Where they aren't, 'JATE' rings are often used, and these are a stirrup basically that bolts round the chassis leg, front or rear, often through a bumper mounting hole or tow bar attachement point.

And getting contentiouse again, one of the reasons I dont IMMEDIETLY throw up the generic advice that these are the 'first' thing you need, is becouse, FRANKLY they aren't!

Yes, damned useful, BUT! See comment in response to Disco1.

And add to that, the fact that a LOT of aftermarket 'Recovery Points' AREN'T actually much if any stronger than the standard towing eyes!

The common 'JATE ring, is in fact a 'Lashing eye', often sold with claims that its made to military specification, but that spec is for using the thing to tie the car to the deck of a ship, aeroplane or transport lorry! NOT for off-road recovery!

Their actual load rating isn't MUCH higher than a standard tow-bar, around three and a half tons. And those are actually some of the better 'recovery' points!

Some of the ones on steering guards or bumpers, I just wouldn't trust to use as towing eyes. Particularly ones attached via the bumper, which is actually on mounts DESIGNED to 'give' when a big force is put on them!

'Propper' recovery points are heavy duty chassis mounted items, and they often need the chassis drilling and sleeving to fit them, which is something beyond your typical aftermarket 'bolt on accessory', or where you are at right now as a newbie.

HENCE my suggestion that you dont bother, until you have got some experience under your belt and know what you are looking at and for.

If you want to go for it, suggestion was for 'JATE' rings at the front, or on a series LR the aftermarket recovery eyes bolting through the chassis OVER the bumper mounts, and jaw and pin tow hitch on the back.

They AREN'T, as I said the strongest kit, but they are a reletively 'safe' intermediete option that should be adequete for green-laaning and P&P situations, and are the recomended minimum items specced by the ARC for road-Taxed-Vehicle trials.

They are NOT however, really strong enough for winch recovery, which is where the 'real' dividing line between a 'towing eye' and a 'recovery point' I think ought to be drawn.

Around the three and a half tons, BS provide for conventional towing bracketry, like the familiar ball-hitch.

The accepted advice for winch recovery is you need a winch with a line pull at least one and a half times the weight of your vehicle.

For a Land-Rover, that's around a three and a half ton line pull, JUST on the maximum of what a standard tow bar is rated to.

The 'typical' landy winch is something with a line pull around 9000lb, or just over four tons, well over maximum rating of a standard tow hitch, and that can easily be doubled or trebbled using pulley techniques.

So, almost as soon as you start looking at winching, the recovery points become the weak-link in the chain, and most 'towing' equipment will rip out or break under the strain the winch can apply, so you need super strong 'winch-recovery' attachement points that can with stand those kind of forces.

As said, the original equipment 'towing eyes' are normally good enough, provided you aren't completely stupid, or devistatingly stuck, and they have ONE little feature that can REALLY save your bacon.....

They BEND before they BREAK!

When you see them bending, STOP PULLING..... go get the shovel, dig out the axle and strap round that.

Put a newbie on a rope behind a badly fitted accessory recovery point, and if it 'goes' there will be no warning, and some-thing or some ONE will get hurt.

And U-Tube is littered with examples of it!

so basicly rope and shackles and making sure my landy has something to hook the rope to.
Pretty much, but dont forget the experienced Recovery budy, the shovel, common sense, a cool head and some injinuity.

cb radio we were going to get walkie talkies does it do same job?
If you read the articles I've linked, gives you the merits of the alternatives, but as Hatters comment, NO!

PMR radio is cheap and its convenient, and it does a job, but it is areal and transmitter power limited.

CB Radio is eight times as powerful as PMR, with over three times the effective range, and is less compromised by the design.

PMR has a fixed, short arial, and inside a car, the signal it emmits is 'attenuated' (weakened!) by the metal and glass shielding the transmitter from the reciever, which is probably also inside another car body, more than doubling the effect.

That SERIOUSELY limits the useful range, and the clarity of transmission.

CB Radio, will normally have a much bigger arial mounted outside the car; this means that theres less to get in the way of the signal between transmistter and reciever, while the bigger areal can put out a much better signal to begin with, and at a much higher power.

So CB is a much 'better' system for talking between cars to start with, than PMR, but you can then add to that the fact that while CB is limited to 4w transmitter power, and a PMR to just 1/2W (I think, or is it 1/4?) CB, powered from a cars 12v supply will generally transmit at full power.

PMR's running off a couple of AAA Batteries, might actually be restricted BENEATH the max permitted transmission power, to concerve battery life, and as the batteries are used, that transmitter power will be significantly reduced, so you wont even get the little transmitter power you may be allowed on the system.

Practically, in a convoy, PMR can let you talk between vehicles, and reasonably happily, but, CB does it an AWFUL lot better!

And the other reason it doesn't do the same job, is that the CB frequencies are not the same as the PMR frequencies, you cant listen to PMR transmissions on a CB set or vica versa.

I actually carry a hand-held CB as well as the car mounted set, as well as a pair of PMRs.

I can use the HH CB to talk to the drivers from outside the car, guiding them through a section, or I can loan the hand held to be used in another vehicle.

I then have the PMRs for compatability, if other convoy members dont have CB.

We were running a six car convoy this weekend, and used both, where not all cars had CB.

Provided the cars all had a line of sight between each other, and weren't too strung out, convcersation over PMR was quite acceptable; but when the cars started getting a bit strung out, some drivers were missing messages, even though they were in plain site.

And those with 'cheap' PMR's were worst effected and the more painful to listen to.

If you GO PMR, for it to work well, you REALLY need one of the better sets, and you are looking at as much as a budget CB, per hand-set... we are talking the £50 a handset bracket here, not the £9.99 bubble-pack Binatone things!

CB, with its added 'beef', works far better, and on the trails we were chatting away over really quite long distances, and when a couple of us headed off for fuel, we were perhaps five of six miles away, and still able to talk to the group, provided there were no big hills in the way!

THAT is the big difference!

Yes, we could have used Mobile Phones, but thats a different system all together, and out in the sticks network coverage can be poor, and you are only talking to one person on another hand set, not listening to group transmissions.

oh and we will ALWAYS be going together me and dan as its our little projects hehe
Yeah..........Oh......Kay.........

as minties comment..... by all means but buddy up with some-one who knows what they are doing as well, will you?

Two numpties on the trails not knowing what they are about just means you can get into twice as much trouble twice as fast as you egg each other on in your combined ignorance!

Had a pair of Pejama-Dramas at a P&P a while back doing just that; ended up with one of them LITTERALLY 'dead in the water', the PJ submerged to the door tops, with a hydrauliced engine and a smashed windscreen!

The Landy Lads were only called over to help out AFTER they had managed to wreak havoc with the strops and straps and only NARROWLY avoidied doing any-one seriouse injury with them!

And again, if you need evidence of the havoc that can be caused by ignorance on the trails, just go look at U-tube!

At the end of the day, we are discussing Green-Laning, technically driving on public roads, and the level of preparation we should be working to should be for driving on public roads, NOT competition challenge events.

Yes, we need to apply a bit of common sense, and do more than we would for a trip to the shops or a run up the motorway to the mother in laws; but we are STILL driving on public highways, NOT venturing accross uncharted wilderness.

A Land-Rover should be pretty much capable of coping with anything we are likely to encounter on the trails, without needing ANY accessories or modifications to do so.

IF we are encountering such situations as demand such heavy duty equipment or preparation, there is something VERY wrong, or we've been VERY unlucky, or VERY Stupid!

Most often the latter, I think.

Top of the list remains COMMON SENSE, and the warning, that if a lane is so challenging as you are likely to get stuck, you probably oughtn't to be trying it.

And I'm firmly of the camp that says you DONT strop up before heading onto the trails, becouse you wouldn't do so to go to Sainsburies, and I dont PLAN on getting stuck and needing to use the bridle. I'd be quite happy for it to stay in the boot the whole trip.

But, and I'll happily admit this, it IS an image thing, as well.

I dont want to dress my Rangie as an extreme challenge vehicle; first becouse I dont need to, but also becouse I dont really WANT to portray that 'extreme' image when I'm driving around, ESPECIALLY on the lanes, encountering the bobble hatters.

Was driving the Ridgeway this week-end before it closed for the winter, and the plaid thermos bregade were out in force.

Tidy street-stock Range Rover, with nothing 'remarkeable' about it, got a few 'looks'.....

(bludy ell they were a miserable bunch..... some-one actually commented over the CB "If walkings so much fun, why do they all look so bloody ****ed off!" and I had to agree, hardly a smile between them. encountered enough of them in my time, and you usually get the odd one that will at least greet you with a freindly smile, not this bludy week-end!.... Anyway!)

Yeah, they can look, and they can gesticulate, and make fake choking gestures, but WTF! what can they say?

Back on 'Rambler-Web', what 'impact' would a picture of a show-room standard Rangie have, with the caption, "look at these Hooligans!"

triptowiltshiresept09052.jpg

(found a piccy some-one has uploaded, you you may as well have a look)

OK, now put the same caption under this pikky;
57253.jpg

I had to tack-up at one point to unhook a Disco who'd got his sill tanks snagged in ruts! Only one of us to get snagged all week-end actually, and caused by a 'momentery lapse of reason' brought on by an urgent case of delhi-beli!

Anyway, slinging a bridle over the windscreen wiper doesn't exactly put it in the same legue as , but its the first step in presenting the "Devil-May-Care, Looking for Trouble" Image the Bobble hatters want to tar us all with, and you can see how just that ONE small addition makes the car look so much more agressive and the picture that much more emotive.

Now put that caption under this picture of 'Bumble-Bee' with all the goodies on it, and plastered in decals?

57248.jpg


This is your full on, Play-Day special; 90 trick cab, lifted, caged, winch equipped, the whole shabang....... brought along by one of the chaps instead of his regular 110, which was in for service or something.

Actually commented that it wasn't as much fun as his day-to-day 110, becouse on the lanes very little challenged it, which is a leader into further debate really, about how the further you take it by way of preparation, the more you are likely to push the envelope beyond whats prudent on the public highway, or be very dissapointed.

But that asside, you get the idea of how much mileage the antis can make out of what we would call 'prudent preparation'?

I just think that its all too easy to get a bit carried away, and over prep our motas for the persuit, and in doing so loose something along the way, as well as add fuel to the fire our critics have lit for our funeral.
 
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Blimey Teflon..wouldn't have guessed you come from Shakespears county, that took me longer to read than one of his plays..lol..Well written that man, might be worth Dan printing that off...
 
Dan and Dan ....... Teflons advice is for your benefit ....goin alone is a bad idea.....scenario..... is this (see attached) how would both of you recover from this when you are alone in the middle of nowhere..... its a long walk home :rolleyes: :) sorry redwingslandrover.... Ive used you as a statement :D
 

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Superb write up there, was excelent i will print that off and re read it. it did take a while to read. I am worried about fitting CB radio as i have to drilll arials etc in are they that easy to install?

Thanks for the write up again its great
 
Thanks a lot Teflon, you undoubtedly went above the call of duty in your response.

It gives me and Chapman a lot to think about. We had already considered that we might not be best going out into the unknown all on our own which is why i started another thread requesting a spare seat in another convoy, that way we could see how its done before trying it out.
 
Blimey Teflon..wouldn't have guessed you come from Shakespears county, that took me longer to read than one of his plays..lol..Well written that man, might be worth Dan printing that off...
I'm not just from his 'county', there matey, I'm a refugee from his home town! Escaped during the 'ethnic cleansing' of the 90's when Stratford & District council made thier bid to turn the whole area into 'Shakespear World PLC'! And us rural inbreds were only welcome if we wore a linin smock, leaned over gates, chewed straw and wnet 'Oh-Ahr!' on queue when the tour busses went past!
 
Thanks for the write up again its great
Your welcome, but good advice is easy to offer, and easy to forget or ignore....

I dont want to preach doom and gloom, or high and mighty ideals, I want you to go out there and have fun...... but safely, and with a healthy apreciation of the 'privilidge' we enjoy being able to still drive Green-Lanes........
Thanks a lot Teflon, you undoubtedly went above the call of duty in your response.
It gives me and Chapman a lot to think about. We had already considered that we might not be best going out into the unknown all on our own which is why i started another thread requesting a spare seat in another convoy, that way we could see how its done before trying it out.

Yeah, I'd spotted that, and its a good eye-opener, but I think its a LONG way short of a 'good' preparation for taking to the trails on your own.

Every trail is different, thats what makes Laning so much fun. Its not about how challenging it is, or how bumpy, or anything like that; you can get that at a P&P if that's your bag.

What makes 'Laning' what it is is that you are driving a different bit of ground every moment. Theres a different view to see round every corner, and theres hidden curioucities in every hedgerow.

The trail itself has an amourphouse surface, in an organic, changing enviroment.


Drive the M6 once, you could have driven it a thousand times; the signposts dont change the land marks dont change, even the idiots hogging the middle lane or blasting down the outside into the road works could be the same!

Drive the same lane, on different days, and the surface will have changed depending on the weather, or passage of other vehicles; obsticles come and go. Trees grow into the track, or get cut back, rocks get exposed, ruts get deeper, or get graded.

You can drive the same trail a hundred times and its a different drive every time.

THAT is where the adventure is.

So, ride shotgun with some-one else a few times, and you'll get to see first hand some of what its about, and you'll pick up quite a lot of the basics.

BUT, what you wont do is be driving.

You wont get the hands on experience of what it feels like through the controls.

OK, so if you go out with some kind soul they may let you take the wheel for a few sections, but that wont even be a sniff of the sausage! Let alone the full banquet!

You wont start garnering the hands on experience over the huge range of conditions and situations you might encounter, until you start driving them yourself, and even then, well it can take years, building up the veriety of different situations and conditions!

So for a Newbie, I really reckon that the BEST starting place you can get, is by joining larger groups, particularly those organised and lead by experienced Laners, and preferably active club members.

THE NUMBER ONE most important thing you need when Laning, is the knowledge you are on a LEGITIMATE Public Right of Way, and that its is 'Status confirmed' on the day you drive it.

Going it alone, with an OS map or a few routes people have given you, great, but how confident are you that those routes are definitely checked out and status confirmed?

Join a reputable group run, and the leader SHOULD (take note its not always certain!) be a member of GLASS or the TRF or affiliate organisation.

Their routes SHOULD be fully researched and status confirmed.

AND, if they are a half decent leader, they should have been recently reconicenced to check the ground conditions are suitable for the convoy they are leading down them.

THAT is the difference you can get from going on a club run, rather than an informal meet off one of the boards.

The Leader should be some-one with a lot of experience for you to draw on, and know ahat they are about..

I mean, knowing hes leading at least ONE newbie, if not a whole group of them, they SHOULD have planned a route that is appropriate to thier level of competance, so you SHOULDN'T unless you are pretty stupid or very unlucky, get into any seriouse difficulty, but even if you DO, they should have enough of thier own recovery kit on board to haul you out of it, if needs be.

I should probably have stressed this point more in my earlier offering; but choosing your 'Mentor' for your first forreys into the persuit is probably THE most important thing to get 'right'.

I've offered a lot of suggestion about how 'lean' you can be with the kit every-one says you ought to have, and I'll stand by that, becouse you can have all the kit in the world, and it'll be no bloody use to man nor beats if theres no-one who knows how to use it properly, worse, pottentially lethal is used wrong!

But get a good Mentor to teach you, and 99% of any worries are IMMEDIETLY halved. Becouse THEY will know how to handle almost ANY situation that arises, and sort it out, with whatever you have or dont have between you.

Get a poor Mentor, and well.... can be worse than none at all, to be honest!

I came into the persuit ten years ago; I wasn't a complete newbie, being a farm-boy, I'd been driving and driving off-road since I was tall enough to reach the pedals on the lawn tractor! and my 'thing' had been Motorcycle Trials, so I knew more than a thing or two about driving for traction, picking lines, and tackling obsticles and such...... just not in a two ton Land-Rover!

I had actually bought that Landy without any real intension of using it 'off-road', it was basically a sturdy tow vehicle, which was a bit more useful for getting the trials bike to event venues than a little Meastro Hatch-back! But having got it, kids all wanted to go 'off-ru-udin' in it.

Member of two M/C trials clubs at the time, competing about twenty times a year, I had absolutely NO desire to join a Land-Rover club or sit on the perifery of yet another club 'clique' watching the play-ground politics and not being invited on Laning-runs becouse I wasn't attending all the RTV's and club evenings and such......... all I wanted was a good mentor to go do 'some' laning with, and give the kids a few days out, so they could go back to school and say that they went 'off-ru-udin' in their Landy!

(at least at THAT time...... BOY look where its lead!)

And I was 'lucky' in finding a decent Mentor; or MAYBE not. Theres a lot to be saif for the old expression you can do a lot to make your own 'luck'; but Keith, over the 'net gave me a LOT of confidence he was a bloke to trust.

I asked a lot of questions, and got a lot of sensible answers to them; and the key ones were to whether he was a member of a club, whether his maps were checked out, and what recovery kit I should carry, etc, and he checked all the key boxes I've offered to you.

He was a Rights of Way secretary in his 4x4 Club, and to prick a few pretensions, that WASN'T a Landrover one, he Drove a Pejaru!

His maps were ALL status confirmed

His Routes were all reconicenced before the run, and checked to be appropriate for the people he was leading down them.

He recommended little 'recovery' equipment; he said, that if it came to it, he had 'everything' that might be needed, and gave assurance that there was very little likleyhood that it would.

And to give him credit, when we first met up, he did. His PJ was winch equipped, and the boot contained just about everything you could find in the magazines, well used, and well looked after.

And, like he said..... we NEVER needed to use it!

The actual advice he gave over the stuff he recomended we 'pack' was a lot more mundane, and basic common sense.

Sensible cloths; water-proofs; sturdy shoes or boots; food; sweets for the kids, the 'usual' sort of stuff you's pack for a day in the car, and the ONLY thing he stressed the real importance of was WATER, lots and lots of water!

Water to drink, water to wash headlamps and number plates, or top up radiators, and MORE water to drink!

And THAT bit of advice, is one I REALLY apreciate! Three or four 2l pop bottles of the stuff, as a minimum, or a two and a half gallon gerry can, you CANT have enough water!

And basic car maintenence and preparation.

On the lanes, you know I think more delays have been through silly mechanical break-downs like flat tyres, over heated engines, blown fuses or loose wires than have ever been major bog-stuck recovery ops!

I am worried about fitting CB radio as i have to drill arials etc in are they that easy to install?

If you read the linked articles, theres detail instructions on all the variouse permutations of installing a CB

From the simplest; buying a Hand Held with an integral areal and its own battery (Easy, but perfromance limited for the same reasons as PMR, though still a LOT beefier!) to really tidy permenant installations.

With a bit of cocum, its not that difficult, and you needn't harm any vital bits or trim or bodywork in the doing.

Set in the Rangie needed no drilling at all; I removed an air-vent grill, and attached the CB bracket via screws that hold the dash together. Lead was strung through the back of the dash-board, and the roof-lining and exits the car through the rear top tail gate seal.

That's about the most onerouse bit of the job, takling trim apart to rout the cabling neatly. Areal itself is attached with a gutter mount, clamped to the roof rim, again needing no drilling, and the power supply is piggy-backed into a permenant live (actually the feed to the clock) found conveniently in the dash.

They have thier own internal speaker, so practically they are easier to rig up then a Hi-Fi.

You dont say what Landy you are going to get yet, though I recall the pair of you are looking for Series leafers.

The wiring on these is nominal, and the trim, non existant! Fitting a CB in one is pretty easy, biggest problem is finding a convenient spot to bolt it, where you can actually hear the speaker over the clattering engine and squeeking body!

If you get a hard top, theres a convenient bracket, or a bracket can easily be fitted, to the back panel just under the roof, where work-lamps are fitted, and the areal lead strung through the door seal, or better, through one of the existing bung filled holes in the penel beneath the roof gutter.... or you can use a gutter mount.

Areal lead can be routed to the front in the inside flange between roof and side panels, and down the windscreen pillar to a dash mounting, or as I did it, run around the to the CB mounted above the rear view mirror.... helpful in the speaker is usually underneath the set, so its pointing roughly at your ear and is reasonably close, so you can hear it well.

But, as the article, I also went and made up an overhead 'Dash' console to take an ordinary Hi-Fi and some other bits and pieces, so you can get as creative as you like really.

Biggest advantage of a properly mounted CB, though, is that it doesn't bounce about, and is easier to use from the driving seat, especially if you have the mic on a decent and conveniently sited hook.

They are worth the money and the effort. If you try playing with PMR or borrow a 'loose' CB, you'll find that a propper, permenantly installed CB rig, just works, without any of the 'niggles' the alternatives have.

Most frustrating thing is group laning and not having any-one else with a set to talk to! Flip side though, is group laning and being the only one NOT 'in the know' if you dont have one!

Chap in the Disco this week-end, was completely radio-less, two of us had spare PMR's, but unfortunetaly were both told that some-one else had already leant him one, and it wasn't until the quite late on, we realised why messages weren't getting through! (We just assumned it was **** PMR!)

In the post laning banter, back at the camp-site, when we were supposed to be packing up, but instead talking Landies, he felt really left out becouse he'd missed out on all the 'jokes'.... bad though they were....

Like when we passed a chap walking a three legged grey hound......

"Hey do you think he calls that dog Woddbine?"
"Why?"
"Well, he takes him out for a Drag every evening!"
"NAh! He's a Racer that one! Mind, they can only enter him into Handicap events....."

To recall just one!

More revealingly, though, when he got his sill tank hung up, there was a hidden ditch running accross the ruts, first car through was a Defender, and actually chucked up a 'Warning' to the rest of the convoy to be wary of it......

He didn't get that message, not having a Radio, and with a little distraction, wanting desperately to get to the next stop and find a bog, drove straight into it.......

THAT is the sort of thing that maked radio's such a useful tool.

Again, during the week-end, driving in convoy, especially a larger one like ours (Six vehiles is about the most you should have in a group if you follow the 'Tread Lightly' code), filing through town or even just junctions between laning sections, almost impossible to keep the convoy together; cars get strung out, and the lead vehicle cant always see all of the group behind. In fact with a group of six, very rarely can.

If you only have a couple of radios, best placed at the front and back of the group. Tail end Charlie then does the most work, telling the lead vehicle when the convoy has got strung out or cut up, and he needs to pull in and let it re-form.

And in that role, PMRs are particularly dire as by the time you need to tell the lead vehicle to pull over, they are usually out of range!

If there's radio's in the middle cars, its better, then messages can be relayed between them, so directions can be given, and the lead car can carry on, without having to stop so often, relaying directions over the radio, so the rest of the group dont have to be in plain sight looking for signals.

On the trails, the radio then gets used by the lead vehicle to warn of hazards on the ground, like hidden ditches, rocks or tree-stumps and stuff, as well as to tell Tail End Charlie if gates need to be closed behind the group or not, and stuff like that.

And that's why I really reckon that they are a piece of kit for a newbie to stick on thier equipment list early on.

when you are starting out, you have SO MUCH to take in and learn, and sat in the car, in a group, you'll spend an awful lot of time wondering what the heck is going on.

If you have radio, you'll be able to hear the 'banter' and OK, jokes and comments aren't important, but they make you feel a part of the 'gang', rather than just a passenger, which is a great start in building confidence.

But then, you'll be able to hear the comments like "Gate Coming up - Leave OPEN, repeat LEAVE OPEN" (Important instructions will be made quite clear, and often be repeated)....

Totally inconsequential to you, sat in the middle of the convoy, but when the group halts, having heard that, means your not jumping out the car, thinking its a tea stop, or wondering whats going on, you'll KNOW its a momentary pause as the leader gets out to open the gate, and let the group through.

Then the convoy will get moving again, and you'll see the gate, and grin, becouse you'd be warned of that on the radio.....

Likewise, you'll get something like, "BRAMBLES! Repeat BRAMBLES; Close Windows!"

And you'll shuttle the glass shut, wondering WHY brambles means close windows.... then a few moments later ther'll be thorns scrapping accross the glass..... and you'll think "Hmmmmm..... I had my elbow out there a few moments ago! THAT'S Why I was told to shut the windows"

Its all small inconsequential stuff, and it does depend on how contientiouse or experienced your fellow laners are, BUT, if you have raidio and the leaders are using it half well, it REALLY does make a big difference.

A well lead group will always get more lanes into an excursion, and have less trouble or hassle on them, becouse the leader knows what they are doing and is thinking not just for thier own drive, but the rest of the group as well, whether or not they have radio or not.

But a group equipped with radio, will find it easier, and not having to stop so often to rally the group or give driver briefing, where lanes are closed or theres a call over whether they are driveable, or to find out who needs a pit stop, or discuss some other point of business, the group will tend to get a lot more out of the day.

And as a newbie in the convoy, being able to hear whats going on, getting those warnings, you'll just get to know whats what that much quicker, while the confidence it will give you, will mean that the whole experience just has another dimension, and it is a lot more fun, and you will learn that bit quicker.
 
I take it you work nights like me Teflon...or suffer from insomnia!! Again, excellent advice...:pop2:
 
I take it you work nights like me Teflon...or suffer from insomnia!! Again, excellent advice...:pop2:

I'm 'Retired due To Ill Health' as they put it on the insurance questionaires!

Spent the week-end down in Wiltshire with the kids, camping & laning.... something like 16 hours on the trails and 24hrs in the driving seat in two days!

Dont keep regular hours at the best of times, but since getting back on Sunday night, sort of reversed sleep pattern; sleep all day, sit up all night at the 'puter!

My own stupid fault, shouldn't be attempting such daft stuff; I'm not fit enough to work, so WTF am I trying to exert myself HARDER than doing a job?!?

Answers on a post card.... not required!
1) I'm stoopid
2) I'm stubborn
3) 'for the kids' (dont want the seeing their old man a house bound couch potatoe & want to see THEM out and a bout having fun and experincing 'stuff'!)
4) It's 'fun'!
5) I have all week to 'recover'!
 
Im with Teflon, CBs can be easily and discreetly mounted without the need for holes in the bodywork. For a long time I had a "bootlid mount" on the front bumper. Two screws on the inside of the bumper to grip, cable routed through the bulkhead with all the rest of the elctrics, and radio screwed to transmission tunnel. They are practically essential, if you have radio, you can banter, be warned of problems ahead, but most of all, scream for help :)

Normal for me is 2x CB permenantly mounted, 1x cb handheld for walkthroughs and recovery, and a PMR or two, biggest problem with them is they are so small and ight they fall out of pockets too easily, or get bounced around the cabin so much they are no use at all on the floor near the back seat.
 

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