Seaman

New Member
Just introducing myself.

Wee English fella who lives in Derry Londonderry and a first time owner of a 1995 Land Rover Defender 90 300tdi.

Was just wondering if anyone knows of any good garages in the area that somewhat specialise in Land Rovers?

Also, I'm a Marine Engineer so somewhat of an 'expert' with rust if anyone needs any tips. Pretty sure everything I know has been covered on here at some point though!

Cheers
 
Welcome to landyzone fireplace for retired sideburn users.
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Just introducing myself.

Wee English fella who lives in Derry Londonderry and a first time owner of a 1995 Land Rover Defender 90 300tdi.

Was just wondering if anyone knows of any good garages in the area that somewhat specialise in Land Rovers?

Also, I'm a Marine Engineer so somewhat of an 'expert' with rust if anyone needs any tips. Pretty sure everything I know has been covered on here at some point though!

Cheers
Welcome to the zone.

If you are an expert on rust we (me in particular) would really appreciate your recommendations for dealing with rust, as we often have plenty of it!

If you wouldn't mind giving us some advice we could at least look at it and see how it could help us in our own personal situations. I have a 1993 90 with a 300tdi conversion, so with it being an older truck I have lots of rust to deal with/control.
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So with that in mind, perhaps you could give your opinion on the following:

What is the best way to;

On the outside of the chassis -
Remove rust.
Treat rust
Prevent it coming back (paint, corrosion prevention coatings).

Also the same for the inside of the chassis. Obviously this has to be more considered as we can't get to the rust to physically remove it. I am just doing some repairs to my outriggers and then I need to address the inside of my chassis so would welcome your suggestions.

I have put Lanoguard on the outside of my chassis and it is stated it is used in marine environments so it will be good to know if that is true (I mean lanolin based products rather than just Lanoguard branded ones). Also, if it is used, do you have any recommendations for a brand and how best to use/apply it?

Once again welcome. There are lots of folk on here that are helpful and have a good knowledge base so always a good place to come before tackling a job - it's certainly given me the confidence to do things and this is my first time doing spanner work.
 
As I said I think the majority of good practises have been covered at some point in the forum but I'll be happy to offer my opinions, maybe it'll help.

What is the best way to;

On the outside of the chassis -
Remove rust.
  • Mechanically should always be your best bet obviously. Ideally you could use a pneumatic chipper to remove the flakes and bubbles before sandblasting (you can get a half decent portable blaster for less than £50 these days). Otherwise it's sweat and a wire brush!
Treat rust
  • Anything that contains Phosphoric Acid, avoid ones that contain Tannic Acids they're too gentle. Phosphoric Acids get deep and converts the rust into Iron Phosphate.
Prevent it coming back (paint, corrosion prevention coatings).
  • Regular work unfortunately. Even with the tens of thousands we spend on rust prevention and a deck crew of 8, they're still doing rust work on a daily basis.
My ideal way to treat a chassis (short of stripping your car and getting it galvanised) would be this;
  1. Give it a thorough clean
  2. Sand blast/chip/wire brush the whole thing
  3. A thorough coating of a Phosphoric Acid based rust converter. (Ospho is fantastic stuff if you can find it)
  4. Leave for 24 hours and brush off
  5. Second coating of rust converter
  6. Leave for 24 hours and brush
  7. Either. Paint with an oil based paint or a gloopy inhibitor like Lanoguard or Waxoyl

Also the same for the inside of the chassis. Obviously this has to be more considered as we can't get to the rust to physically remove it. I am just doing some repairs to my outriggers and then I need to address the inside of my chassis so would welcome your suggestions.
  • I've considered making a sand blaster/vacuum setup to create an internal sandstorm inside the chassis. If I ever pull my finger out and make it ill post it on here (or maybe patent it..... Haha)
  • The Ospho stuff I mentioned before has the viscosity of water so you could spray into the inside of the chassis and it'll work wonders, really does stop the creep of rust. I've heard people say to not use it alongside rust inhibitors like Lanoguard but I genuinely can't see why not.

I have put Lanoguard on the outside of my chassis and it is stated it is used in marine environments so it will be good to know if that is true (I mean lanolin based products rather than just Lanoguard branded ones). Also, if it is used, do you have any recommendations for a brand and how best to use/apply it?
  • They might use it on small craft but not larger vessels.
  • The stuff does look good though, from what I've seen, and I'm planning on using it myself.
Another great product to use, other than Ospho rust converter, is Tef Gel. It takes the place of copper pastes and the like and is used on fittings. It's a Teflon based paste the consistency of marmite and I use it on everything! It's particularly good for galvanic corrosion which occurs all over the land rover world. Seems expensive but it'll last ages.

Anyway, hope that helps somewhat.

I'm away on my stag do now so I'll probably end up needing to sell the Defender by the end of the weekend to pay my stripper debts
 
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I also want to add that giving the car a good clean regularly is incredibly important, rust forms from wet dirt and mud more than water itself so if you clean it regularly you'll be in a good spot
 
Welcome from Norfolk err Scotland or some where travelling about a bit...
Can't help with Landrover garages, it's a long time since my sister was born in Altnagelvin, we moved to England soon after.. my sister ..she's retired..
 

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