S

series III

Member
I can't seem to get a spark......she was running great and then cut out and wouldn't start.
checked plug against block no spark

with dizzy cap removed no spark between points.

lead from coil to dizzy checked against block no spark

I'm running out of ideas

I bought and fitted the following, still no joy.

New condensor
New coil
New points
New HT leads
New Plugs
new solenoid

background: a few moons ago my mate burnt out the alternator, by trying to jump start with the leads the wrong way round. I swapped out the knackered one with a new lucas 16ACR alternator then noticed that the battery was boiling over, which made me think there was a fault with the regulator on the alternator. My neighbour asked his mate a Landrover mechanic his advice, he said its possible that the alternator if charging too high could have cooked something else like condenser or coil on the circuit. So I have fitted all new items above and still can't get a spark.

I convinced my wife a landrover would be good idea, simple to fix, cheap parts etc. if i don't get it going soon she's going to leave me for some one with a jap 4x4 or get the landy crushed

so there is my sanity, marriage and landrover on the line.....no presure!!

thanks


M
 
If the wiring has rubbed through or the points are shorted out through incorrect fitting=the points opening will not interrupt supply to coil and create a spark. check you have a supply to coil across - and + on coil first
 
Have you put the new coil in the right way round?
Do you have 12v at the coil/points? (could be a duff ignition switch or wiring from)
Is the earth braid in the dizzy OK?
Have you fitted the points correctly? it's not too difficult to short them to the dizzy casing.
Is the condensor short circuit? (yes, I know it's new...)
Is there any charge left in the battery?

When you get it running check the voltage on the battery + terminal - if it goes above 14v or so your regulator is buggered.

If you haven't got a multimeter invest in £5 to £10 in one.
 
Put a feed directly from the battery to the coil and try spinning your engine. It should fire up from that.

If not, then there is something wrong with your coil switching ... points!

Take the condenser off and try again. You should get some big sparks across your points, but she should still run.

Check that you have fitted the insulator properly on the points themselves, otherwise you will be going straight to earth and getting nowhere!

Hope this helps.
 
Oldseadog said:
Put a feed directly from the battery to the coil and try spinning your engine. It should fire up from that.

If not, then there is something wrong with your coil switching ... points!

Take the condenser off and try again. You should get some big sparks across your points, but she should still run.

Check that you have fitted the insulator properly on the points themselves, otherwise you will be going straight to earth and getting nowhere!

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

which way round should the insulator be on the points. I have a ducilier dizzy fitted, should the washer be on top, or, underneath the points
 
Hmm, long time since I saw a froggy one, I fitted a Lucas one ages ago. You have to fit all the bits together so that the contact and spring doesn't touch the baseplate and the contact block and condensor connectors touch the end of the spring. There's a not too useful drawing in the parts catalogue - I can drop you a link if you need one.
 
Thought i'd found the problem, the carbon pin in middle of the dizzy had corroded and snapped..fixed / bodged with the spring from a pen!! amazingly the right size.......but still not sparking.

with a test lamp on Batt + and coil - and when Ignition off points closed the lamp is lit and goes out when the points are opened and the solenoid clicks

with ignition on lamp still lit but goes out when points opened. no noise from solenoid.

is that good or bad my brain fried.....:mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
oxides said:
Hmm, long time since I saw a froggy one, I fitted a Lucas one ages ago. You have to fit all the bits together so that the contact and spring doesn't touch the baseplate and the contact block and condensor connectors touch the end of the spring. There's a not too useful drawing in the parts catalogue - I can drop you a link if you need one.
Click to expand...

have ordered a lucas dizzy so will try from the ground up.

thanks
 
series III said:
Thought i'd found the problem, the carbon pin in middle of the dizzy had corroded and snapped..fixed / bodged with the spring from a pen!! amazingly the right size.......but still not sparking.

with a test lamp on Batt + and coil - and when Ignition off points closed the lamp is lit and goes out when the points are opened and the solenoid clicks

with ignition on lamp still lit but goes out when points opened. no noise from solenoid.

is that good or bad my brain fried.....:mad::mad::mad::mad:
Click to expand...

What should happen:-
lamp between coil - (connected to points) and earth.

Ignition off lamp out points open or shut.
Ignition on points closed lamp out
Ignition on, points open, lamp on

The solenoid shouldn't have anything to do with it - try turning the engine over with the handle or opening the points with your fingers.
 
oxides said:
What should happen:-
lamp between coil - (connected to points) and earth.

Ignition off lamp out points open or shut.
Ignition on points closed lamp out
Ignition on, points open, lamp on

The solenoid shouldn't have anything to do with it - try turning the engine over with the handle or opening the points with your fingers.
Click to expand...

i'll give it a go tomorrow and let you know..cheers muchly
 
coil to earth with lamp, ignition on, lamp light when points opened!!

so this means problem with HT circuit right?

so new leads and a Lucas distributor being ordered monday.

I am going to check the ignition switch though as lamp not very bright.

M
 
That sounds right - the lamp is in series with the coil so won't be full brightness.
The lamp should go on and off as the points open and close.
Coil should be wired + from ignition switch, - to points.
Try an HT lead from the coil to a spark plug, open and close the points and see if there's a spark - it'll allow you to see if the problem is the dizzy or the coil.
 
oxides said:
That sounds right - the lamp is in series with the coil so won't be full brightness.
The lamp should go on and off as the points open and close.
Coil should be wired + from ignition switch, - to points.
Try an HT lead from the coil to a spark plug, open and close the points and see if there's a spark - it'll allow you to see if the problem is the dizzy or the coil.
Click to expand...

tried HT direct form coil to s/plug and have spark when points opened.

so faulty dizzy cap then? spose i could check each ht lead then would know if cap or leads?
 
Replace the cap and rotor arm as a matter of course - I presume you have the right ones? I seem to remember the Lucas cap (black instead of red) will sort of fit the Ducelier dizzy but wont work.
 
I checked each lead on coil with a plug and all fine.

I tested the central contact in the cap which work also, so though here we go she gonna fire......no:confused: so i thought i would check the points again, so i removed the points and had a close look, the insulator between the sprung arm and pivot had melted and i think was shorting out - I looked out the old points that i had before fitted them - tested as before all working.

Moment of truth turned the key and she fire on 1/4 of a turn:D:D

so thanks to all for the time and advice i'd be lost without it.

Now thought I have a problem of the new alternator over charging. I pulled out the loom from the back of the alternator and put the + of my volt meter on one of the larger terminals and earthed the other end and it read 65:eek: I checked the meter - dial on DC 200v.....without changing anything i checked the Battery 16,5v.....so the meter is working but not sure the alternator is right or am i doing it all wrong

M
 
16 1/2 volts is a bit high. Make sure all three wires on the alternator are connected correctly - some alternators use one of the wires as a voltage sense, although it sounds rather like your regulator is shagged.
 
When you checked the voltage was the alternator still connected to the battery?

If not, then you would get a false reading!

How flat was your battery after cranking, and did you check the battery voltage immediately after starting your engine?

After running your engine for 10 minutes or so, what is the charge voltage at your battery?
 
Last edited:
oxides said:
Replace the cap and rotor arm as a matter of course - I presume you have the right ones? I seem to remember the Lucas cap (black instead of red) will sort of fit the Ducelier dizzy but wont work.
Click to expand...

thats exactly the same rule for old austins and some early fords must be a universal thing :D
 
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