KB159

Member
Morning all,

Sorry if this is a easy fix, inherited the Land Rover and still new to this!

Changed a squeaking water pump and tensioner which was fine, but that lack of noise has now allowed me to hear another metal sort of clunking that I couldn’t hear before! Not consistent, but usually appeared low revs in low gears.

That noise then seemed to disappear, but now my clutch pedal has lost pretty much all resistance and often fails to return to its original place without me flicking it back up. The biting point is also now almost at the floor.

I have a 1995 300tdi 90.

Any help much appreciated!
 
Morning all,

Sorry if this is a easy fix, inherited the Land Rover and still new to this!

Changed a squeaking water pump and tensioner which was fine, but that lack of noise has now allowed me to hear another metal sort of clunking that I couldn’t hear before! Not consistent, but usually appeared low revs in low gears.

That noise then seemed to disappear, but now my clutch pedal has lost pretty much all resistance and often fails to return to its original place without me flicking it back up. The biting point is also now almost at the floor.

I have a 1995 300tdi 90.

Any help much appreciated!
Check your clutch fluid level first of all and look for leaks. If that’s all fine, then more than likely you need a new clutch.
 
Sounds like a leak to me - is reservoir still full ?

If it's the slave cylinder you might notice a leak out of the wading hole on the g/box bell housing

If it's the master a leak will be evident where it bolts through the firewall and leak on the inside

If reservoir still full then your seals on the master on the piston rod are shot and allowing fluid past them and is an easy fix and cheap
 
Sounds like a leak to me - is reservoir still full ?

If it's the slave cylinder you might notice a leak out of the wading hole on the g/box bell housing

If it's the master a leak will be evident where it bolts through the firewall and leak on the inside

If reservoir still full then your seals on the master on the piston rod are shot and allowing fluid past them and is an easy fix and cheap
Reservoir was empty. Topped it up, then went for a wee drive and no change to clutch resistance. Checked reservoir when I got back and it's not dropped at all. Hard to see if it's leaking as I spilt a fair bit when I was pouring it in!

Please ignore the poor condition of everything else in the photo - I'm trying to put out fires one at a time, most vital one first!
 

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Reservoir was empty. Topped it up, then went for a wee drive and no change to clutch resistance. Checked reservoir when I got back and it's not dropped at all. Hard to see if it's leaking as I spilt a fair bit when I was pouring it in!

Please ignore the poor condition of everything else in the photo - I'm trying to put out fires one at a time, most vital one first!
Did you bleed it after refilling ?
 
Ah, no, didn't know I needed to do that, or how to do it for that matter. Will have a rummage on Youtube and see what I can do.
 
You can just open the nipple on the slave cylinder, have a length of clear pipe on it into a jar and when it runs clear of air bubbles shut off. Have someone top up the reservoir as you do this, it is rather small. Do not reuse the fluid that come out.
 
To add to the above - I have bled mine recently as mentioned above - there is a damping unit in line so rather let a lot of fluid run thru than too little. It should empty the reservoir in about 30 mins
It starts slowly then it gets going faster and faster

I think I let a full 500 ml run through
 
To add to the above - I have bled mine recently as mentioned above - there is a damping unit in line so rather let a lot of fluid run thru than too little. It should empty the reservoir in about 30 mins
It starts slowly then it gets going faster and faster

I think I let a full 500 ml run through
Does the Defender have a clutch damper on it?
 

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