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Pistoltpete

New Member
Hi everyone..
My first post on here.. So Hi!!
I have a 2007 2.2 auto SE Freelander 2.
Its my daily and my tow car for my race car :),I have had it 18 months not given me any issues, passed its mot faultless.

Untill friday. On the way back from picking up my trailer from having it service, the landy start having issues
It would drive fine on half throttle. anything over half throttle it would start to get to full boost, then hit what felt like fuel cut (i come from jap imports)
Got it home and left it over night as was picking up the wife's new car next day.
Sunday I tried it and basically it doesn't accelerate. at all takes about 3 seconds to get 10mph, and just revs up very very slowly in 100yards it could only get to maybe 20mph..
Its like there is no turbo at all, It even feels too slow for limp mode.. but don't know how slow they are in limp mode..
I have done a code read on it, but i cannot clear stored codes for some reason, the codes are grey not "RED" where i can normally clear them, Also have no EML light coming on
It has full landy or specialist service history.
I do all my own work on my cars, and i can't drive it anywhere to get them to code read it as wouldn't be safe and dont want to damage anything
Codes i had were
P0113 (air intake temp curcuit high)
P0131 02 curcuit low voltage
P02E1 ?
P1259 ?
P2159 o2 sensor Lean

I wanted to clear these to see what comes back, but i couldn't clear, not even with battery disconnect, is there a way i could clear them at home without a different reader? I use the torque app and bluetooth device at the mo

I could not see any pipes blown off or split, i will have another check.

Any ideas which direction to go before i start buying parts like a new Maf?

Really wanna get this sorted

Thanks
Pete
 
Intake temperature high, suggest the EGR valve is stuck open. This will allow exhaust gas to pass freely into the intake.
You can get a blanking plate to stop the exhaust from entering the intake manifold, which would solve that issue.
The P02E1 is an issue with the throttle butterfly, so that's probably failed in the closed position, preventing fresh air from entering the engine.
This is then highlighting a potential issue with the EGR valve.

Problems with the EGR valve and throttle butterfly assembly are common, and would give the fault you described.

Looks like 1 of the codes is a CAN error, so ignore that for a bit.

Hope this helps.
 
Ahh brill that gives me something to start with. With the butterfly valve, with just the ignition on, I am guessing i can press throttle and should see the throttle opening. or will it only open with engine running?

thanks
 
Diagnostic wise, if you plan on keeping the FL2, then you need something a bit more advanced than Torque (not that Torque is bad), but you need a diagnostic tool that does multiple modules (there are over 19) in the vehicle. Unfortunately the FL2 is an electronic nightmare, so needs a good diagnostic tool, if DIY maintenance is going be done. ;)
 
Pistoltpete said:
Ahh brill that gives me something to start with. With the butterfly valve, with just the ignition on, I am guessing i can press throttle and should see the throttle opening. or will it only open with engine running?

thanks
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the throttle butterfly is under ECU control, and is actually nothing to do with throttling the engine like in a petrol. A diesel is always at Wide Open Throttle, the power output being controlled by the volume of fuel being injected, effectively richening up the mixture for more power.

The throttle butterfly is there purely to make the EGR cycle more efficient, and as an emergency shut off of air, should the engine decide to run away.

It's very common for the gears in the throttle butterfly drive to strip, effectively sticking the butterfly open, closed, or somewhere in between.

Unfortunately your only option is a replacement, which is about £90. It'll also need calibration after fitting, which requires suitable equipment to do.
 
Pistoltpete said:
I keep meaning to get a decent one... any suggestions budget friendly but do a good job?
Click to expand...

I've several options for my FL2, some better value than others.

I've an Icarsoft I930, which is cheap (about £90) and pretty good, if a little short on features with a rubbish UI, it is stand alone though.
There's a more expensive Icarsoft about now, which should do more than the old I930.

I've also got a Gap IID BT, which is a nice unit, which hooks up to a phone/tablet, it does more than the I930, but isn't as feature packed on the FL2, as it is on the D3 for instance.

I also have a Mongoose Pro cable (probably a clone), which allows a laptop running W7 32 to have JLR SDD diagnostic software installed (cracked version are available for free), which is dealer level software, so will do anything you'll need to on a 2005 onwards LR. This means it'll calibrate new engine controls, injectors, sensors and anything else an LR main dealer can do.
 
Can you get a live reading for the iat?
Then try with it disconnected and see what reading it goes down to, open circuit should be coldest I imagine.
And nodge68 knows a load more than I do!
 
Nodge68 said:
Unfortunately your only option is a replacement, which is about £90. It'll also need calibration after fitting, which requires suitable equipment to do.
Click to expand...

Nodge. I didnt realise this. I replaced the electronic throttle body on mine 2 months ago due to the plastic gears stripping. I havent had any calibration done. The vehicle seems OK. Have I been lucky, or is the car likely not performing as it should and I should get it recalibarated?

Thx
 
parxuk said:
Nodge. I didnt realise this. I replaced the electronic throttle body on mine 2 months ago due to the plastic gears stripping. I havent had any calibration done. The vehicle seems OK. Have I been lucky, or is the car likely not performing as it should and I should get it recalibarated?

Thx
Click to expand...

The throttle calibration procedure is so the ECU (PTM in LR speak) knows where the end stops are. If it's not calibrated, then presumably it could overload the gears, as the ECU won't know were it's supposed to stop driving the motor.
 
WRT scanners i have a foxwell nt530 goes pretty deep - its hand held and can be upgraded for other manufactures.
SDD is prob the way to go for big work but is a laptop job.
FL2 is a bit short on aftermarket scan tool functionality - looking into it i read somewhere recently that the FL2 was the test bed for next gen landrovers, so its all basically locked down R&D stuff - was on the tinternet so must be true...

cheers @Nodge68 - another thing on the to do list, the garage changed mine and as they didnt re-program the injectors guessing they didnt calibrate this either...
oh got my SDD up and running finally just need to connect to the cable and car next..
 
SWalker said:
SDD is prob the way to go for big work but is a laptop job.
Click to expand...
Definitely.
Thankfully SDD isn't that difficult to use, although some of its routines are a little hard to find. :(

SWalker said:
FL2 is a bit short on aftermarket scan tool functionality - looking into it i read somewhere recently that the FL2 was the test bed for next gen landrovers, so its all basically locked down R&D stuff -
Click to expand...
I can believe that, as the FL2 has more control modules than the D3.
Even my beloved Gap IID BT now takes a backstage to the SDD, simply because it's so lacking in functionality on the FL2.
SWalker said:
cheers @Nodge68 - another thing on the to do list, the garage changed mine and as they didnt re-program the injectors guessing they didnt calibrate this either...
oh got my SDD up and running finally just need to connect to the cable and car next.
Click to expand...
The cable is the easiest part.

You'll not regret getting SDD functional. ;)
 
So update people's..

I've blocked the egr.. and changed the throttle body, it was knackers the gears had worn.
I have a code reader which cleared the codes..
It still won't rev / accelerate

That's on my drive foot flat on floor..

Only code I get back now is p2195. Sensor 1 bank 1 stuck lean.. would the O2 sensor actually make the car run like this.
I cannot get any voltage on live data


Thoughts! Thanks
 
Pistoltpete said:
Only code I get back now is p2195. Sensor 1 bank 1 stuck lean.. would the O2 sensor actually make the car run like this.
I cannot get any voltage on live data
Click to expand...
The O2 is used by the ECU (PTM in LR speak), so it can monitor EGR effectiveness. It doesn't alter the fueling, as diesels don't work like that.
Pistoltpete said:
I have missed the bit about it being calibrated.. does it need calibrating? I've got no errors about the throttle now
Click to expand...
The TB has a calibration routine using a suitable diagnostic tool, which programs the butterfly positions into the PTM memory.
 
Okay.. fault found ..
Air filter soaked in water.. air box not wet...?!?
And that's then killed the maf.

Any ideas why the air filter would be wet???
 
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