jonnymac2001

jonnymac2001

Member
Well after much deliberation, I've gone and put a deposit on a Land Rover 90.
Had a Freelander for a couple of years, but finally gone for it.
A couple of things. It is an F reg '89, but from the engine number it appears to have a 200tdi engine in. I am assuming it has had a replacement at some point. I'm also assuming there were no 89's with 200tdi lumps in as standard?
The other thing is what should i aim to do to keep her in good nick? Underseal? Anything to try and preserve the bulkhead? Anything else?
It will mainly be used to take the dogs in, collect bulky objects, tip runs etc.
There are a few lanes round here though, so will probably see some of those.
Any advice welcome
 
For the last 25 years I firstly cleaned the chassis and all bits I could get at. Then painted with Hammerite and sprayed Waxoil in every hole I could find. ( I used a bike pump with flexible adaptor which produces a fine mist and for less accessible parts of the frame and bulkhead, stopped up the end of a flexible plastic pipe with pin holes around the end which has a similar effect.)
I always change oil every 3k retaining the old and painting everything underneath and spraying the cavities with it as before. Sometimes I have used linseed oil which has excellent qualities.
My vehicle is a 1991 model and I have only had to repair/replace the two front outriggers. The MOT guy praises its condition and stripped away part of the accumulated protection to reveal a mainframe almost like new.
It is important to understand that there is no fire and forget solution for rust and that sound metal requires regular protection to last.

I can't help you with the engine. Mine is also a 200tdi but from 1991.

Anyway, hope you enjoy your Defender. Mine was just a tool which I retained as a pet! They grow on you.
 
I’ve got a 1989 ninety with a 200Tdi and the engine was a disco 200Tdi originally.
 
Would have been a 19j turbo diesel originally.
Mine is a 1990 and like yours had a TD. Have owned it since 93 and in 08 fitted a Tdi. Fresh engine oil and diesel has been my weapon of choice to keep the bug at bay. Sprayed inside and out once a year after a good clean and dry. Remove a door hinge and windscreen bolt and spray inside bulkhead.
Only a couple of small welding patches on rear crossmember and ends of outriggers despite being a working farm [ lots of sh1t stuck to it most of the time. ] and living by the sea.
[ See avatar ]
 
Thanks for your replies guys.
So it looks like the engine is a replacement. Does anybody know if Disco tdi engines used the same engine numbering system? Is there a way I can tell if it is Disco or Defender., and does it really make any difference at all?
Also, are the proofing services provided at independent Landy specialists any good, or steer clear?
I'm picking her up Sunday, so should know a little more then.
A few pics in case anyone notices anything to worry about
 

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Looks like a well cared for / done up some example. For some reason your engine pic comes out tiny on my laptop [ others are fine ] Defender engine will have turbo high up, the disco version has turbo lower down near the chassis rail. If disco conversion [ very common, many done ] is done right it is fine.
The proofers charge a lot for what is a pretty basic job although if using my method a compressor and spray gun is needed and somewhere to park while the drips come off [ and remember not to park on anyone's posh drive for a bit ]
Other ways are available but whatever you choose do not think of it as a one off treatment as some advertise. To keep the rust bug at bay repeat/top up treatments needed every couple of years at least.
 
I have a compressor and gun, but do not have a lift. The vast majority of my spannering is on Motorbikes.
I have been quoted 200-250+vat for a waxoyl job at my local independent Landy place.
Pic again, hopefully bigger :D
s-l64.jpg
 
One thing with Landys, a couple of heavy duty ramps and there is room to sit underneath.
That looks pretty much as mine does, Converting from a 19j to a Defender 200Tdi only need minor modifications. Electric fan ? Only needed if towing, very hot weather and standing traffic.
Only thing that looks wrong is the large pipe laying across the inner wing on N/S. If air intake it should be going to the grill at the rear of N/S. It may well be ok just not in standard position.
 
jonnymac2001 said:
I have a compressor and gun, but do not have a lift. The vast majority of my spannering is on Motorbikes.
I have been quoted 200-250+vat for a waxoyl job at my local independent Landy place.
Pic again, hopefully bigger :D
View attachment 237048
Click to expand...

thats a defender spec 200tdi engine, either fitted by a previous owner from
Another defender or as a repower package from a main dealer back in the day
 
@jonnymac2001 , as others above have said, give the old girl a thorough clean. A great way of getting to know your new toy is to thoroughly clean the engine/engine bay - spray with Gunk and leave to work in/work in with a brush into every nook & cranny, hot soapy water to clean off, rinse and dry. Having a clean engine bay means you won't get filthy whenever something needs repairing. If you have a jet washer blitz clean the underside and inside the chassis. Dinitrol provide excellent LR chassis kits and it's very easy to use. Personally, I'd stay clear of Waxoyl.

https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/dinitrol-4-x-4-rustproofing-kit-aerosols/

Re' bulkhead/footwells...clean, inspect and address any issues. You may find it just needs a repaint and treat with a transparent wax coating and/or Gwyn Lewis offers excellent underbody protection kits for the front footwells, front of rear arches and rear crossmember. These to be fitted after chassis treatment.

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/mud-shields-flaps/90/
 
One of the reasons my Landy has lasted well in a harsh environment is I fitted a set of home made set of shields/flaps shortly after I bought it. The Gwyn Lewis stuff is similar. Pity JLR did not fit stuff like this from new, would have saved much repair work.
 
Ok, sounds good. So no red flags in the engine department? I haven’t heard of repower packages. Were thèse kits from Land Rover, at the time?
I suppose I just wanted to know I had a good starting point in ownership

I’lll look into a couple of ramps. I will probably need them at some point.
Sounds like there are many ways of rustproofing. I’ll have a read around and look at the prices.
Has anyone used ACF 50 on prone areas (like hinges and seams) to any great effect?
Thanks for all the info.
 
Sooooo...... One thing that isn’t immediately apparent from the pictures (to me, at least), is the size of the wheels! This thing is huge!
The tyres are 315 75 16. Does anybody else run these? I’m sure they will effect economy, but are there any other negative aspects to this? Would it be worth the cost to downsize and the associated drop in suspension, or just leave it.
I don’t actually mind the look, or drive (though it is a bit noisy at speed).
 
A lot depends on what use you are putting it to and how many miles per year. A 89 Landy would most likely had standard Land rover steels with 205's when new.
 
Good looking 90 that

yep it will be quicker and more economic on smaller tyres, wont have the road presense or ground clearance,

one option is to keep an eye on the bay for a set of boost alloys on 235 /85 16 which a lot of newer 90 were fitted with standard, cheap way to change tyres or maybe do as i do have a summer and winter set...
 
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