My 1986 90 Defender is causing me to think hard about options regarding its chassis.
I have owned her for 5 years. She is mechanically very sound and has a Disco 200 TDI engine and a range rover rear axle, all fitted by the last owner. Body wise, the doors and batter box need attention but otherwise all very good. Roof, wings, upper body all very sound. I paid £1500 and have spent around £500 on parts since. She has never failed an MOT :)

The chassis though is in need of attention. I have attached some pictures. Most of the rust is surface, although I cannot be sure what lurkes in areas I cannot see. My dilema is whether to clean it up using wire brush, then wax oil or bite the bullet, and replace the chassis. Fortunately, I have reasonably good workshop facilities.

Either way, I will have to remove the body and will replace clutch and anything else that makes sense whilst stripped down.

Some caveats: I use her for launching a boat, so the back axle does get immersed in sea water (evident from the pictures!).

This is more of an emotional decision (I think) than economic. If a refurb costs me £3000, and she stands me in at £1000, what could I buy for £4k (and that's without costing my time)?

So some questions:
Is it possible to have the chassis shot blasted?
Has anyone refurbed a chassis before, if so how, and was it successful?
I being too optimistic thinking I can wire brush the chassis to a point whereby wax oil makes sense?
eceived. Often I find I have missed a 'way of thinking' about something, so it always helpful to canvass opinion from others.

Thanks in advance.
 

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The chassis looks to be in reasonable condition. I would rub it down and paint it with red oxide primer then a few coats of tractol paint, followed by clear waxoyl. Inside the chassis can be 50% diesel/waxoyl mix.
 
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well, there's no immediately obvious rot in any of those pictures, so get to work brushing off surface rust, and chipping it off with a screwdriver or similar, and if you do find any rot, then assess as appropriate, but I would say that you've got nothing in those photos that is ringing alarm bells with me so far.

it does look like it should've been waxoyl'd a long time ago however! :)
 
I've seen worse. Dipping your motor in sea water is always going to be hard on the chassis no matter what its coated with.
 
and only now you are thinking of waxoyl?? :eek:

get it cleaned up and spray the inside with some form of rust cure then douse with waxoyl/diesel mix liberally on the inside and prime/paint and treat as mentioned earlier IMO
 
Agreeing with the guys - that looks like it should definately clean up - persoanlyl would be more nervous about the diff housing and rear axle perforating:eek:

If salt water has got inside the chassis bnox sections, you'd be better with ankor wax (in my view) to disperse any water - it's the inside where you can't see that I'd be 'topping up' each year once
 
It doesn't answer your question, but with regard to launching the boat, what about creating a 6 foot long T-shaped extension to hook on your towbar with 2 wheels (like a small trailer chassis). Where the T parts meet, attach a tow ball to hook on the boat and you can reverse the boat in without the landy touching salt water.

If we have to launch the RIB with a car instead of a landy, we put a tow rope between the trailer and car then push the trailer back, using the car to stop it running away. It also means that when putting the boat back on the trailer, the car is on dry flat tarmac instead of a steep greasy slip-way so is able to pull the trailer out of the water with ease.
 
I thank you all for replying. There are some great ideas, and you have convinced me to restore the chassis, so saving me so money - :)

Cheers
 
I have always used ankor wax but I recently had one of the outriggers replaced as it was rusted to death and the guy was ****ed off as the chassis kept catching fire as he welded the new outrigger into place, said there was more than 1cm of "waxoyl" on the chassis and that I should scrape it all off and just paint it because the waxoyl / ankor wax substances do not let the chassis breath whereas paint does....I have NO idea if this is true or even relevant but I am buggered if I am going to scrape all those years of wax off!!!
 
In the condition it's in, I'd say, like the others, clean and paint/waxoyl :)

If I was ever going to change a chassis, I wouldn't even think about putting a standard one on it because you're going to have the same problem of rust in the future.
I would get a galvanised chassis, an while the whole things stripped down that much put a galvanised bulkhead too, paint them both with primer and top coat and then forget about them for 20 years :D That's me though, and if you take yours in the sea it would be pointless, salt water is probably the worst stuff you can drive in for rusting :rolleyes:
 
Hi again

Following on from my earlier post, I have taken the tub off and exposed the chassis - doesn't look at all bad!

I have exposed some rust in the front drivers footwell/bulkhead (see pics). The bulkhead is generally sound. What I am not sure of is whether the rust shown is classed as 'part of the bulkhead' or 'part of the footwell'. I have seen repair sections for the footwell, but I need to know if that is the correct part and also how difficult it is to remove/replace? Or, should I just weld over with a section of plate?

As always, comments and suggestions gratefully received.
 

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Defo the footwell you can get repair panels but for that, but personally I would just cut out the rust then plate over with some sheet steel.
 
Hi again

Following on from my earlier post, I have taken the tub off and exposed the chassis - doesn't look at all bad!

I have exposed some rust in the front drivers footwell/bulkhead (see pics). The bulkhead is generally sound. What I am not sure of is whether the rust shown is classed as 'part of the bulkhead' or 'part of the footwell'. I have seen repair sections for the footwell, but I need to know if that is the correct part and also how difficult it is to remove/replace? Or, should I just weld over with a section of plate?

As always, comments and suggestions gratefully received.

I'd cut that bit of rot out and weld a plate over it
 
I should scrape it all off and just paint it because the waxoyl / ankor wax substances do not let the chassis breath whereas paint does....I have NO idea if this is true or even relevant but I am buggered if I am going to scrape all those years of wax off!!![/quote

Load of bollox the guy doesn't know what he's talking about.
 
How can metal breathe???? Rust is caused by oxidation so no breathing, no oxidation = rock solid chassis
 
Steel needs oxygen to to oxidize, hence the name.

So if you stop the steel 'breathing' (if that's even true) by waxoyling it, you deprive it of oxygen, therefore stopping it from oxidizing :rolleyes:
 
he means dry out ,certain coatings like powder coatings when damaged let water under and as majority of coating is not porus it remains damp and rots ,plenty of primer ,top coat and a good waxing of choice will definately help ,salt water is very corrosive and the more protection the steel has the better as most have said
 
he means dry out ,certain coatings like powder coatings when damaged let water under and as majority of coating is not porus it remains damp and rots ,plenty of primer ,top coat and a good waxing of choice will definately help ,salt water is very corrosive and the more protection the steel has the better as most have said

What JM said :D
 

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