Zaky31

Zaky31

Active Member
So here she is. My V8 3.9 top spec ES model with LPG. She was salvaged from a friends drive where she sat for 8 months rotting and abandoned. I gave her a new battery and she fired first time drove her away and now she is my project.
So watch this space for my project improvements. Not bad for a freebie.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412533830.754776.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1412533842.405041.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1412533861.940060.jpg
 
So I got my new disco back and pulled up the boot carpet etc. I'm actually quite impressed with how good a condition it's in. The rear arches are like new. Not a spec of rust and the boot floor although it needs replacing is actually really good. Only problem is...... How to disconnect and remove the lpg tank. ??????
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Good luck with the project mate :) Ive an ES as well, in the process of replacing every bush from back to front and uprating the shocks while Im there although retaining a standard look from outside.Great projects :)
 
So I attacked the boot floor today after my new one arrived. Back breaking stuff and went through 6 cutting discs on the angle grinder but finally got the floor out. Nearly cut through brake pipes in process but missed them by a few millilitres thank god.
Why oh why did Landrover think it would be a great idea to spot weld every square inch.....😡ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415123252.526343.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1415123266.574902.jpg
 
Awesome project, easy enough to rip the spots with a propper spot drill bit, goes real fast with one of them, done a few now and roughly 4hrs start to finish unless I have a lot of fab to do on the side panels.

How about the rest of it? Inner wings, A and B pillar bottoms.
 
Pillars are mint as is the rest of the body and the chassis. It has been wax oiled from new every year so it's mint condition only the classic boot floor rust and the front inner arches have small amount of rust. So the boot floor is getting replaced and the wheel arches will be patches then I'll coat the lot in hammerite so it'll last another 15 years I hope.
Once that's done it'll be heat gun to the black plastic trim to bring back the jet black shine and re-upholster the ceiling which has fallen down. Oh and to get he cream leather seats re-stitched as the two front leather seats stitching has splint.
 
Just an idea fo the head lining, look at getting an earlier 200Tdi one, unlike the 300s they are made differently and don't sag.

I wouldn't have expected the boot floor to need doing if it had been waxoyld from new!!! Perhaps there was a water leak from an alpine light or sunroof that let it rot from the inside?
 
Yeah my mate that I got the disco off said it had a leaking alpine roof seal a few years ago and because he didn't have a dry garage (only a drive) all the sound proofing sponge under carpet stayed soaked right until the day I ripped it out so the boot floor stayed damp for about 2 years. It was bound to go. But I have a new floor now will weld it in in a few weeks then I'm not putting that bloody sponge back in. I plan on remodelling the whole boot area. My plans will be:
Remove 6th&7th fold up seats.
Fit new bass speaker in place of one of those seats (boot door speakers are dead)

Box the speaker and LPG tank in with chequered plate

Then cover the rest on the boot floor, sidewalls and boot door in chequer plate with various loops on the sides so I can have fully adjustable bungee nets to stop anything sliding about.
 
Well last week having done new boot floor. Front wheel arches new exhaust and just about everything else the project disco got its PASS MOT certificate I've now sold my fiesta and the disco is my everyday car. Woohoo
 
I am well chuffed. Next job will be remodel the boot space. Fitting new speakers as the original ones have almost disintegrated then to totally re-cover the headliner.

My disco did something very strange yesterday tho. Came home and popped in the house to drop a bag off before having to go again I didn't lock the car as only ran in and back out. Tried to start and immobiliser kicked in and wouldn't let it tick over. So I closed the doors to lock it and unlock it with the fob but it didn't do anything. It wouldn't read the signal from the fob????? In the end I had to disconnect the main car battery reconnect after a minute then it picked up the signal straight away. Is this a common fault? I now keep a 10ml spanner in the glove box in case it does it again when I'm away from home.??
 
All you had to do is move the fob near to the ignition switch to remobilise, locking/unlocking the doors drained the fobs battery but after a short while the battery refreshed and the fob was functioning again.
 
I did that. I tried just about everything including changing the fob battery. It just would not read the fob signal.??
 
Does anyone know where I can get another fob from (programmed too) as only have one and if it breaks or is lost my car ain't starting.
 
Also can I adjust the steering wheel position. For the wheels to be dead straight the steering wheel sits off centre slightly to the right. As a result while driving the wheel keeps trying to centre so I have to hold the steering wheel forcibly to the right to keep the car straight.
 
Fobs can loose their tuning, Remote Key can supply a replacement fob and loan u the kit to program it, they also do a refurbish of fobs so have look at there site.

Looks like your tracking is badly out of adjustment get that checked and then reposition you steering wheel via the drag link adjustments, the info on how to do that is in a Haynes manual.
 
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