Is there an easy way of getting these off a 90, without mangling them.
They're in nice condition at the moment and proper land rover ones, but they
won't stay that way if I go trialing with them still on there.

The bolts, front and back, seem to go through into the totally inaccessable
area of the out-rigger or rear x-member (which I now find is full of damp
mud). I'm about to try trimming the bolt heads off with the angle grinder
but is there a better method?

If I did want to put them back on I don't see any way of getting a spanner
to the nut in the box section. Do Land Rover put the mud flaps on before
assembling the rest of the vehicle??

Ta,

M

On or around Thu, 24 Jun 2004 23:34:11 +0100, "McBad"
<mcbad@NOSPAMglobalnet.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:

>Is there an easy way of getting these off a 90, without mangling them.
>They're in nice condition at the moment and proper land rover ones, but they
>won't stay that way if I go trialing with them still on there.
>
>The bolts, front and back, seem to go through into the totally inaccessable
>area of the out-rigger or rear x-member (which I now find is full of damp
>mud). I'm about to try trimming the bolt heads off with the angle grinder
>but is there a better method?
>
>If I did want to put them back on I don't see any way of getting a spanner
>to the nut in the box section. Do Land Rover put the mud flaps on before
>assembling the rest of the vehicle??

they should be captive nuts, I think. The front ones are. However, there's
a good chance they'll shear off.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
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In article <cnind056nspqq6hirnn2mf6qf1l595lk7c@4ax.com>, Austin Shackles wrote:
>
> they should be captive nuts, I think. The front ones are. However, there's
> a good chance they'll shear off.
>

My front ones use rivnuts in the outriggers. Of course they now just spin
round and won't come undone...

Also when I say front ones I really mean the bit that is left since the
flappy bits of the mudflaps fell off!!

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

"McBad" <mcbad@NOSPAMglobalnet.co.uk> wrote in
news:wfydnboD__XrxEbdRVn-sQ@brightview.com:

> Is there an easy way of getting these off a 90, without
> mangling them. They're in nice condition at the moment and
> proper land rover ones, but they won't stay that way if I
> go trialing with them still on there.
>
> The bolts, front and back, seem to go through into the
> totally inaccessable area of the out-rigger or rear
> x-member (which I now find is full of damp mud). I'm about
> to try trimming the bolt heads off with the angle grinder
> but is there a better method?
>
> If I did want to put them back on I don't see any way of
> getting a spanner to the nut in the box section. Do Land
> Rover put the mud flaps on before assembling the rest of
> the vehicle??
>
> Ta,
>
> M
>
>

Can't help with a dainty way to get them off as my favourite
tool is the angle grinder<G>.

But here is what I did to bolt on new mud flaps after I'd
replaced the rear cross member on my D90.

Get a piece of mild steel wire (about 1.5mm diameter, but I'm
guessing) about 15 inches long and bend a sharp U in the end
that will accept a 6mm (?) bolt without slipping. Turn the wire
through 360 degrees to make sure your wire has a firm enough
grip so the bolt will not slip out.

Lightly oil the bolt threads and make sure the nut is a smooth
and easy fit. Insert wire and bolt into open end of cross member
and manipulate it so the threaded end drops down through the
hole.

Offer up your mud flap support bracket, insert bolt through hole
and gently put the nut on a few turns. It helps if you use a
finger to push the threaded part sideways, jammed against the
hole in the cross member, to stop the bolt going back inside.
Now pull the wire out so it pulls off the head of the bolt
leaving the threaded end still in the hole, held by the
nut.(That's why you need firm but flexible wire).

If you lose a bolt inside the X-member, just pull it out with
another piece of wire with a 90 degree bend in the end.

Putting sideways pressure on the bolt with your finger will stop
it turning in the hole sufficiently so you can gently tighten
the nut. Finally, tighten down after you have all the bolts in
position applying sideways pressure if necessary. Friction at
the cross member should be enough to allow you to get the nut on
securely. I achieved a good tight torque on four new bolts using
this method without too much trouble.

Derry

"Austin Shackles" <austin@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cnind056nspqq6hirnn2mf6qf1l595lk7c@4ax.com...

>
> they should be captive nuts, I think. The front ones are. However,
there's
> a good chance they'll shear off.
>
> --

If they were, they have. (

M.

"Derry Argue" <derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk> wrote in message
news:Xns951362D985DE5derryadviegundogscou@130.133.1.4...
> Can't help with a dainty way to get them off as my favourite
> tool is the angle grinder<G>.
>
> But here is what I did to bolt on new mud flaps after I'd
> replaced the rear cross member on my D90.
>
> Get a piece of mild steel wire (about 1.5mm diameter, but I'm
> guessing) about 15 inches long and bend a sharp U in the end
> that will accept a 6mm (?) bolt without slipping. Turn the wire
> through 360 degrees to make sure your wire has a firm enough
> grip so the bolt will not slip out.
>
> Lightly oil the bolt threads and make sure the nut is a smooth
> and easy fit. Insert wire and bolt into open end of cross member
> and manipulate it so the threaded end drops down through the
> hole.
>
> Offer up your mud flap support bracket, insert bolt through hole
> and gently put the nut on a few turns. It helps if you use a
> finger to push the threaded part sideways, jammed against the
> hole in the cross member, to stop the bolt going back inside.
> Now pull the wire out so it pulls off the head of the bolt
> leaving the threaded end still in the hole, held by the
> nut.(That's why you need firm but flexible wire).
>
> If you lose a bolt inside the X-member, just pull it out with
> another piece of wire with a 90 degree bend in the end.
>
> Putting sideways pressure on the bolt with your finger will stop
> it turning in the hole sufficiently so you can gently tighten
> the nut. Finally, tighten down after you have all the bolts in
> position applying sideways pressure if necessary. Friction at
> the cross member should be enough to allow you to get the nut on
> securely. I achieved a good tight torque on four new bolts using
> this method without too much trouble.
>
> Derry

Thanks. Doesn't look as if there is any alternative to the angle-grinder to
get them off. I'll worry about putting them back on when I come to sell the
vehicle, if ever. There must be other places to use your trick with the
wire though.

Ta,

M.

McBad <mcbad@NOSPAMglobalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:6NSdnajSifBd10HdRVn-gQ@brightview.com...
>
> "Austin Shackles" <austin@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:cnind056nspqq6hirnn2mf6qf1l595lk7c@4ax.com...
>
> >
> > they should be captive nuts, I think. The front ones are. However,
> there's
> > a good chance they'll shear off.
> >
> > --
>
> If they were, they have. (
>
>
Be assured they were!

Solution 1: Drill or punch them out. Replace with replacements from your
dealer - readily available. If necessary, try to get a slightly larger size.
Called "rivenuts" or blind nuts.

Solution 2: Drill or punch them out. Pop into your nearest B&Q (or whatever)
and visit the hardware section. There you will find a (Rawlplug I think)
product which consists of a compressible rubber plug with a bolt. Enlarge
your holes as necessary, fit rubber thingie, attach mudflap (probably using
large washers as the bolt is quite small on the fitting). Problem solved.

Mike.

On or around Fri, 25 Jun 2004 17:19:28 +0000 (UTC), "Mike Buckley"
<mike@nochance.com> enlightened us thusly:

>Be assured they were!
>
>Solution 1: Drill or punch them out. Replace with replacements from your
>dealer - readily available. If necessary, try to get a slightly larger size.
>Called "rivenuts" or blind nuts.
>
>Solution 2: Drill or punch them out. Pop into your nearest B&Q (or whatever)
>and visit the hardware section. There you will find a (Rawlplug I think)
>product which consists of a compressible rubber plug with a bolt. Enlarge
>your holes as necessary, fit rubber thingie, attach mudflap (probably using
>large washers as the bolt is quite small on the fitting). Problem solved.

Solution 3: Those cunning bolts with a drill on the end, buggered if I know
what they're called.



--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
0123456789112345678921234567893123456789412345678951234567896123456789712345
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2 bob: it a SigRuler! | check out the weebl and bob archive:
3 weebl: How Handy! | http://www.weebl.jolt.co.uk/archives.php

Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Fri, 25 Jun 2004 17:19:28 +0000 (UTC), "Mike Buckley"
> <mike@nochance.com> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
>>Be assured they were!
>>
>>Solution 1: Drill or punch them out. Replace with replacements from your
>>dealer - readily available. If necessary, try to get a slightly larger size.
>>Called "rivenuts" or blind nuts.
>>
>>Solution 2: Drill or punch them out. Pop into your nearest B&Q (or whatever)
>>and visit the hardware section. There you will find a (Rawlplug I think)
>>product which consists of a compressible rubber plug with a bolt. Enlarge
>>your holes as necessary, fit rubber thingie, attach mudflap (probably using
>>large washers as the bolt is quite small on the fitting). Problem solved.
>
>
> Solution 3: Those cunning bolts with a drill on the end, buggered if I know
> what they're called.
>
>

Those would be 'Tec Screws'- http://www.fasten.it/whosup.php?mate=246_15
Available in a bewildering array of sizes in your local builders providers.
Useful for lots of things the manufacturers never dreamed of

Ivor.

On or around Sat, 26 Jun 2004 01:42:22 +0100, Ivor Clegg
<wcleggfeckoffspam@iol.ie> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>> On or around Fri, 25 Jun 2004 17:19:28 +0000 (UTC), "Mike Buckley"
>> <mike@nochance.com> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>
>>>Be assured they were!
>>>
>>>Solution 1: Drill or punch them out. Replace with replacements from your
>>>dealer - readily available. If necessary, try to get a slightly larger size.
>>>Called "rivenuts" or blind nuts.
>>>
>>>Solution 2: Drill or punch them out. Pop into your nearest B&Q (or whatever)
>>>and visit the hardware section. There you will find a (Rawlplug I think)
>>>product which consists of a compressible rubber plug with a bolt. Enlarge
>>>your holes as necessary, fit rubber thingie, attach mudflap (probably using
>>>large washers as the bolt is quite small on the fitting). Problem solved.
>>
>>
>> Solution 3: Those cunning bolts with a drill on the end, buggered if I know
>> what they're called.
>>
>>
>
>Those would be 'Tec Screws'- http://www.fasten.it/whosup.php?mate=246_15
>Available in a bewildering array of sizes in your local builders providers.
>Useful for lots of things the manufacturers never dreamed of
>

the ones I had in mind have a normal bolt-type thread, although that sort
would do as well.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by
too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a
Bank Holiday weekend.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

"McBad" <mcbad@NOSPAMglobalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:wfydnboD__XrxEbdRVn-sQ@brightview.com...
> Is there an easy way of getting these off a 90, without mangling them.

Finally got round to this this evening; had to resort to the angle grinder
for all four as the bolts just rotated without undoing. Discovered the only
bits of my chassis that are rusty are the bits that have been 'protected' by
the mud flaps.

M.