With 7 years of passed MOT's under its belt, my 1988 200tdi has failed majorly.

I've had the vehicle for 11 months after buying it off a guy who'd had it for many years. Over the last 11 months, I've done a lot of work to replace parts that are wearing out and doing general maintenance here and there.

Its surprising that none of this has been flagged up before, because its not like it wasn't like this before I got it. Harsh Tester?

If anyone recommends a garage for MOT's in Bristol id be greatly appreciating, the guy today seemed a bit up his own arse.

I'm really thankful of this forum, you've always helped me out whenever I've needed it, and was wondering if now you could give me your views, and advice on the best repair procedure.

I understand that I could just take it to a garage and get them to do it all, but it'll be massively expensive, and id love to do as much of the work myself.

I hope you don't think that I don't keep good care of her, seems to be a full time job sometimes to keep on top of it.

• Electrical wiring likely to touch hot or rotating parts on top of inlet manifold (4.11 (a) (iii))
This was put as a dangerous defect (Do not drive until repaired). I kind of understand why this failed, but its been like that for years, delivering power to the front fan. I did think that it was an odd place to run a wire when I first got it but never thought to move it. Easily fixed though so not fussed.
60429034_2175253522550692_8175609666869395456_n.jpg


• Offside Front Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded bulkhead (1.1.21 (e) (i))

The photos below show this corrosion, apart from the park where the garage has poked out all the rust, everything else seems to be quite small. In your opinions, is this a lot of corrosion here, and what's the best repair procedure?
60215084_462473984294898_5848642247557382144_n.jpg

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• Nearside Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.1.3 (b) (i)) & Offside Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.1.3 (b) (i)).
Is a lot of play here usual for a defender? I understand that its easy and cheap to replace these.​
60475394_335112877197665_6876807158512484352_n.jpg

• Offside Drag link end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged or deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))
Another reasonably simple/cheap fix.
• Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength chassis (5.3.6 (a) (i))
I cant seem to see how the corrosion that I have here warrants this fail, seems to look and feel sound to me, with only surface rust. Am I looking in the wrong place? And yes, from the photo its obvious that my steering fluid was leaking, but it sorted this last week. :)
60364011_593991651090057_3466553097709420544_n.jpg
• Nearside Rear Shock absorbers likely to become detached (5.3.2 (a) (ii))
This one is quite embarrassing really. defiantly should have picked up on this. Not sure how long its been this way. seems that the top bracket for the shock has snapped. when going about changing this, how does the bracket attach to the chassis? Do the bolts go all the way through with a nut on the other end? or is this a bigger problem than it looks?​
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• Offside Front Wheel bearing rough when rotated (5.1.3 (b) (i))

• Central Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases at joint (6.1.2 (a))
 
rust on your bulkhead near the brake servo is a fair one i think and i would have expected a fail - hard to tell from a photo but looks like there is more rust in the corner of the bulkhead. As to fixing i would have thought you could patch her up.

The springs look far better than on my 90 which has just passed its MOT so i think unfair fail on that one.
 
lol this one however is deserved ;):D:D:D:D:D

This one is quite embarrassing really. defiantly should have picked up on this. Not sure how long its been this way. seems that the top bracket for the shock has snapped. when going about changing this, how does the bracket attach to the chassis? Do the bolts go all the way through with a nut on the other end? or is this a bigger problem than it looks?
 
As for the front corrosion the area of concern should be marked usually in yellow but I can't see anything in the photo.
 
Also now I've looked on a pc instead of on my phone it looks like the front spring seat is cracked?
 
If spring seat is cracked it was a good call and needs proper welding.
 
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He was very fair, all were fail points and yes he was referring to your shock tower and the corrosion around its lower circumference where it has "blown".

BJs are a must as are boots.

Bulkhead rot probably got his eyes on the whole shabang.

Where does the random wire over the intake go exactly?
 
have a look at the lower spring seat on that front shock, that looks worse than the top turret tbh. Bit of work there though, i dont think that was a harsh fail, some of that is pretty unsafe.

What have you been fixing for the last 11 months?
 
As said above, everything pointed out/listed needs doing, bulkhead possibly the hardest to do, everything else is just bolts and spanner time, the wire is just a joke you should really have changed that ages ago.
A good wash underneath on a regular basis would be a good thing, and you now know to wash it before testing.
 
It's all fixable stuff. If you haven't already got one, a small angle grinder with cutting discs and a rotary wire brush would be worth getting. Some of those nuts and bolts would be easier just to slice off. Get the shock turret off and the spring out of the way and wire brush the spring seat that's welded onto the chassis to see how much metal you've actually got left. If it's too far gone there are firms that make new ones that can be welded on, but there might be enough metal left that you don't need to. Clean it up, fresh coat of paint and re-present it with a new shock turret and retainer ring, and it'll probably pass. The only thing that looks like a bit of a chore is the bulkhead welding but that's because to get a really good run at it you'll have to take a lot of stuff off.
 
Use a longer length of wire routing it around the side of the engine bay along the wing: free (should have lengths of wire and conectors in the garage if you have had it for a year now!)

Bulkhead corner patches are available so just weld a new corner on: £25ish (link)

New TRE's all around, is easy enough to do, just use lots of heat to remove the old ones, and measure the length before removing to refit "correctly" before getting it tracked properly: £30ish (link)

I cannot see any issue with the front suspension, looks far better than a lot I have seen, but if it is the turret that is the problem galv turrets and a new ring are cheap and easy to fit: £40 (do both sides: link)

New rear shock top bracket needed, easy to replace, just three bolts through the chassis: £13 (link)

new wheel bearing, easy and cheap: £15ish (link)

new exhaust piece, easy and cheap: £15ish (link)

I would not describe any of those as major fails, although in the mot wording I know that is what they are classed as. All of them are cheap and easy to repair yourself just being spanner jobs other than the bulkhead if you cannot weld. Total about £150 (+ welding costs if you cant) and weekend laying on the floor getting better acquainted with it. Not to bad a fail really considering the age of the vehicle. Unfortunately I have had MOT fails that have cost me far more than that :rolleyes:.
 
Even if you can not weld yourself [ well worth learning ] Cleaning up and removing things in the way of a fix will reduce cost.
 
Any decent mot tester/mechanic will see a wire like that over the top of an engine as a bodge (even if it works)
 
Tester looks to have been fair.

That random wire running up the intake just shouts bodgery and that bulkhead is ripe..

Lower spring seat split

Tie rod ball joint knacked..

Yep..

Oh and what did you replace?

Sure wasn't required as most maintenance that it needs/needed it's failed on the lack of.
 

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