We5ley

New Member
Just got back from my MOT and dont think its going to be cheap, Failed on ten things, with 3 advisory items, including Heavy corrosion to the complete chassis, new that needed doing at some point but sounding like a job for sooner rather than later.

But for now I just need an mot so i can road tax her and keep it in the street still, I share a house with enough room for one car on a steep incline drive way, and there are 3 cars and my motor bike to park :(

4 of the failures where just bulbs thou I just ordered two new repeaters for the indicators as they are rusted to death. Think they need more than new bulbs.

And this little lot, I am guessing he took a screw driver to it as they where not like that before..

7425310340_2926d20c29.jpg


Any way that's just me moaning, the real question is can you help me find the part for these.

Fuel cap/Sealing device sealing washer missing,

I am guessing my fuel cap needs a washer, It's a C reg 85 defender 90.

Never had one before so not sure what he is looking for also wondering how it passed last time with out one.

7425346692_ac6552b582.jpg


Also,

Offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt.

Now my question is can I just replace the dust cover, or do I have to replace the whole unit?

Thanks in advance.
 
And this little lot, I am guessing he took a screw driver to it as they where not like that before..

As I understand it (from a mate who's an MOT tester) they're not allowed to use anything more substantial than a piece of plastic. Saying that, it looks like you could've done that to your outrigger with yer finger! New outrigger it is then.

Any way that's just me moaning, the real question is can you help me find the part for these.

Fuel cap/Sealing device sealing washer missing,

I am guessing my fuel cap needs a washer, It's a C reg 85 defender 90.

Just get a locking fuel cap, less than a tenner off-of ebay.

Never had one before so not sure what he is looking for also wondering how it passed last time with out one.

Offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt.

Now my question is can I just replace the dust cover, or do I have to replace the whole unit?

Pro'ly best to replace the whole unit, again not too spensive.
 
you can just replace the dust cover on the track rod end.only takes 5 mins and no messing with tracking afterwards. The fuel cap washer might mean a new cap.
Where abouts on the wirral is ya?
 
Just out side liscard, Thanks for the advice, been rooting round the house trying to find the last one i got of ebay, fuel cap that is, thou i know that does not fit to small. Will have to order some bits for the car i guess.

The place that did the mot, quoted around £250 to weld the out riggers that sound fair?
 
To me they need replacing, but if both need doing and they will pass and last a few years seems good deal.
 
Yep both are prity much as bad as each other, Just been to check on the track rod end I can see what they mean you can see all the braiding.

7425309672_e05e476772.jpg



IMAG0164 by Abhorsen The Final Death, on Flickr

I am guessing all that oil is the, "006 Steering box has significant oil leak", or "007Power steering pump leaking from failed seal", take your pick really :(

Will just order the whole thing for the track rod, may as well replace it, may even try my self...

Just measured my fuel cap and its 9 cm across, well the gap is with the cap off not the cap it self, is that standard defender size?

As I said the last one i got from ebay said defenders but was two small almost fitted inside the tank it was that small.
 
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Just out side liscard, Thanks for the advice, been rooting round the house trying to find the last one i got of ebay, fuel cap that is, thou i know that does not fit to small. Will have to order some bits for the car i guess.

The place that did the mot, quoted around £250 to weld the out riggers that sound fair?
sounds ok , but what about the rest of the chassis + heavy corrosion , is that a fail or advisory
 
Advisory, but he did take the time to come in and tell me that one in person, thou I knew it needed doing will prob do it next year, not got the cash this year i dont think.

I am guessing this is my fuel pump,

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Been looking to get the seals for it, but they all say for the type that has 4 bolts on the top. Is this the type they on about?

7431118392_2e5b03c00f.jpg


Do I want a right hand or left hand screw to replace this, its the drivers side one? (I can never get all that off side near side stuff.)
 
that's a 4 bolt box , and thats not a track rod end mate ,that's yer drop arm and it should have a circlip underneath so as to remove and replace it once the top nut is undone.
 
that's a 4 bolt box , and thats not a track rod end mate ,that's yer drop arm and it should have a circlip underneath so as to remove and replace it once the top nut is undone.


"Offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt."


So would that apply to the drop arm, or am I looking at the wrong thing?
 
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"Offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt."


So would that apply to the drop arm, or am I looking at the wrong thing?

You're looking at wrong thing (assuming MOT guy was looking at the right thing ;) )

Track rod is the long rod that goes between the swivel points on each end of the front axle. so you're looking at the drivers side track rod end. Turn your wheel to full lock left, and you will be able to see the track rod end behind your drivers side wheel.
 
drop arm ball joint has poor gaiter ,mot people and mechanics often call them track rod ends as thats what most cars only have with most vehicles using steering rack and not box
 
as often as not you will have to take the "rod" off the vehicle to get the ball joints out. change all 3 and use copper slip on the threads when putting them back in. before you take them out measure the distances between the ball joints and count how many turns it takes to remove them so you have a guide for putting it back together. i'm sure they will be a video on youtube or something. those outriggers look like they need replacing not repairing hows the rest of the chassis beecause they look like net curtains. maybe an idea that while your under there clean and paint your chassis but the welding price seems fair as long as it will last you need to weigh it up against future repairs that are possible
 
Thanks for the advice guys, think i will just do all 3 and give it ago my self. Time to order some more bits of ebay i think.

Snip those outriggers look like they need replacing not repairing hows the rest of the chassis beecause they look like net curtains. maybe an idea that while your under there clean and paint your chassis but the welding price seems fair as long as it will last you need to weigh it up against future repairs that are possible

Tbh I need it to last me a year I know it needs doing and this time I think getting by is enough. The chassis needs replacing, with any luck next year should be able to afford it.
 
Fuel cap/Sealing device sealing washer missing,

I am guessing my fuel cap needs a washer, It's a C reg 85 defender 90.

Never had one before so not sure what he is looking for also wondering how it passed last time with out one.

7425346692_ac6552b582.jpg

MOTer sounds like a **** - if you have all the rust I wouldn't have thought it was worth his while to compond matters by adding fuel filler seal! Looking at the picture your landy doesn't slosh fuel down the side so it doesn't look to be critical!

You need a big flat rubber washer thing down in the cap. Also, does your cap lock? I'd just lock it and only leave the ignition key.
 
MOTer sounds like a **** - if you have all the rust I wouldn't have thought it was worth his while to compond matters by adding fuel filler seal! Looking at the picture your landy doesn't slosh fuel down the side so it doesn't look to be critical!

You need a big flat rubber washer thing down in the cap. Also, does your cap lock? I'd just lock it and only leave the ignition key.


hehe, no it does not lock, tbh suprised locals have not worked that out yet and tried to nick some fuel, but i tend to keep her low just in case.
 
MOTer sounds like a **** - if you have all the rust I wouldn't have thought it was worth his while to compond matters by adding fuel filler seal! Looking at the picture your landy doesn't slosh fuel down the side so it doesn't look to be critical!

You need a big flat rubber washer thing down in the cap. Also, does your cap lock? I'd just lock it and only leave the ignition key.

If memory serve me correctly (it's been a while). If you can't check the fuel cap it's a reason for refusal to test! It's a pretest thing you're meant to do before you put the car on the ramp. So you may end up not even tested never mind failed!
 
Where did you take it for mot wes? My mates got a mot station in birkenhead if you need any advice mate.
 
Crane Bank Garages Ltd Wallasey‏

Cranebank Garages - MOT's, Service and Repairs

Tbh they where grate when i needed my ring gear doing, was £300 and they steam cleaned the engine bay and engine for free, while they had the engine out.

Thats prob the only reason you could tell it was leaking before that it had 25 years of oil and greasse all over it, infact if they had not cleaned it doubt you would have been able to tell anything was leaking.
 

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