Swatmo

New Member
Hi. My 1997 300tdi defender 90, start first thing every morning, I go for a short or long drive to shops, when I return from the shops and then the ignition key, there's absolutely nothing not even a click.
I check the fuses, the solenoid and starter leads all seem correct. But no matter how many times I try turning the key still nothing. Then after about 2 hours it starts as if nothing wrong, this is the second time it has happened now.
I can't find what the problem is. Anyone got any ideas ????
 
Hi. My 1997 300tdi defender 90, start first thing every morning, I go for a short or long drive to shops, when I return from the shops and then the ignition key, there's absolutely nothing not even a click.
I check the fuses, the solenoid and starter leads all seem correct. But no matter how many times I try turning the key still nothing. Then after about 2 hours it starts as if nothing wrong, this is the second time it has happened now.
I can't find what the problem is. Anyone got any ideas ????
Contacts in starter solenoid I suspect. But plenty of other stuff I suppose.
 
No tried that . I'll have to take her for a joint and give it a try once itdoesnt start again... cheers
 
Ignition switch?
Beat me to it.
I thought about that but discounted it as it soemtimes starts but when it doesn't turning it and turning it makes no difference.
When I have had the ignition barrel go it simply refuses to turn as the wafers won't do their job, so I took it apart filed the leading edges of the wafers down until it worked. But he can always test that with an MM at the switch.
 
Sure its not the ignition barrel/key or switch thats at fault, you dont say whether the ignition lights come on or not.

Ive replaced a few over the years.
Understandable especially when you see people with lots of keys on their car keys and unfortunately do not think that can use quicker wear on the barrel.
 
I thought about that but discounted it as it soemtimes starts but when it doesn't turning it and turning it makes no difference.
When I have had the ignition barrel go it simply refuses to turn as the wafers won't do their job, so I took it apart filed the leading edges of the wafers down until it worked. But he can always test that with an MM at the switch.
I sort of had but it's another thing to check off the list if needed.
 
check the voltage on the solinoid

my D1 300 tdi did the same thing and put a relay fed by the same wire to the solinoid and 12 v positive from the battery

hope my picture makes sense
 
Sure its not the ignition barrel/key or switch thats at fault, you dont say whether the ignition lights come on or not.

Ive replaced a few over the years.
Cheers.. all the warning lights come on... in fact all lights working perfectly... I suppose ignition barrel will be the easiest to change first...
 
I thought about that but discounted it as it soemtimes starts but when it doesn't turning it and turning it makes no difference.
When I have had the ignition barrel go it simply refuses to turn as the wafers won't do their job, so I took it apart filed the leading edges of the wafers down until it worked. But he can always test that with an MM at the switch.
Cheers. I'll strip it down tomorrow see if I can see anything there if not change it with my spare...
 
I thought about that but discounted it as it soemtimes starts but when it doesn't turning it and turning it makes no difference.
When I have had the ignition barrel go it simply refuses to turn as the wafers won't do their job, so I took it apart filed the leading edges of the wafers down until it worked. But he can always test that with an MM at the switch.
Yes the key turns everytime, not sticking at all. WHEN engine is cold it fires up straight away,,, it's after a drive after 5 miles and stop. Then it does start for at least 2 hours and starts as if nothing wrong.. Defenders who would have them....

I sort of had but it's another thing to check off the list if needed.
 
Check all the earths, clean and tight, something is drifting when warm ...

could be a dodgy relay contact ...
 
Cheers.. all the warning lights come on... in fact all lights working perfectly... I suppose ignition barrel will be the easiest to change first...
The ignition switch is on the back of the barrel, available separately.
Can we presume no power to the starter then?
No power to the relay?
Guess you will need to trace it back, bit of a pain it only does it when hot. Be easier to trace it if the problem was there all the time.
 
Just had the same sort of issue with my van, changed the & keys & barrel (key was well worn) then it ran for a few days then
starting or not, relay clicking behind the seat went away after I replaced the ignition switch then click from starter (2 days later) now replaced the solenoid & its all good.
 
Just had the same sort of issue with my van, changed the & keys & barrel (key was well worn) then it ran for a few days then
starting or not, relay clicking behind the seat went away after I replaced the ignition switch then click from starter (2 days later) now replaced the solenoid & its all good.
Which takes us back to the beginning!
OP needs to check he is consitently getting 12v to the solenoid. If he is then forget the ignition switch and the wiring from the switch to the solenoid. Just sort out the contacts or if CBA (or it is worse than that) change the solenoid.
 

Similar threads