Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Hi Fellow members.
Hopefully I am posting this in the right place, and it will help other member whom may wish to do the same or similar work on their FL 1 TD4.
I have owned the FL now for 10 days and over the last few days I have been able to under take the routine maintenance jobs I like to do when I have first bought a car.
Here below I would like to share what I have dine and how I did it, these are the first stages of what I am intending to do to the car to bring it in line with how I like the car to be thanks Arctic2.
I am going to change the intake manifold & EGR for good clean ones I like to do this at least once a year.
Right I will start by first lift the bonnet and securing it on it's stay Fig 1
1
The first thing I like to do in undo the jubilee clips on all the hose I need to remove while doing the manifold change, EGR clips Fig 2
2
Air Intake/intercooler securing screws Fig 3
3
Small section of intercooler hose x 2 clips Fig 4
4
Moving along the line I remove the turbocharger boost temperature sensor, setting it out of the way to one side. Fig5/6
5
6
I next disconnect the top intercooler hose Fig 7
7
Then the air intake hose Fig 8
8
Both intercooler and air intakes hoses disconnected Fig 9
9
With the top intercooler hose disconnected you will see the other securing screws remove this Fig 10/11
10
11
You can now also remove the one near the EGR Fig 12
12
Next where the air intake connects to the air cleaner remove the wiring loom out from fixing point, it slides towards you Fig 13
13
With the wiring loom removed from the fork fitting, pull the air intake from the air cleaner gently it make take some force but it will come free Fig 14
14
As you pull the air intake free you can also lift it free from the EGR hose as here below Fig 15
15
With the Air/intercooler section removed put it safe to one side so it can not get damaged Fig 16
16
Now you can remove the EGR hose Fig 17/18
17
18
Put this also safe out of the way Fig 19
19
I next undid the EGR pipe retaining clip and removed it from it's joint as you can see below, Fig 20/21
20
21
Next I removed the small engine cover plate which is held on with three 8mm bolts Fig 22/23
22
23
As always boring I know but put it safe with it's bolts this way nothing gets damaged or and screws or bolts lost in the engine bay Fig 24
24
We can now focus on the manifold removing or unclipping any wires or hoses first one is the MAP sensor or the turbo boost pressure sensor, which is mounted on right hand side of the intake manifold but your left as you look at it, Fig 25/26
25
Easy removed by pressing in the securing clip Fig 26
26
Next unclip the wiring and fuel hose from the same side of the manifold as here below Fig 27/28
27
28
Now release the wiring harness grommet from the intake manifold right side as you look at it Fig 29/30
29
30
We can now concentrate on removing the manifold and the EGR all in one go you will need a 10mm and 11mm socket for the nuts and bolts holding the intake manifold in place.
First undo the 8 bolts at the top of the manifold these are 10mm Fig 31
31
Remove the holding section which holds down the injector cover/small engine middle bolt Fig 32/33
32
33
Next undo the bottom nuts which consist of 4 x11mm nuts and 1 11mm bolt Fig 34
34
Unclip the hose from the EGR as here Fig 35/36
35
36
Carrying on with the manifold removal as you can see here one of the nuts as seized so it as unbolts from the head if this happens not to worry as it is only the same as if it where a bolt, Fig 37
37
The other three came off as nuts Fig 38
38
The last one far left as you look at the manifold in a bolt as opposed to the other four 11mm being nuts Fig 39
39
With all the bolts and nuts released or removed you are now ready to remove the manifold from the engine Fig 40
40
Remove and as you can see with the EGR still attached to the manifold 41
41
Manifold and EGR off the car Fig 42
42
Going back to the engine you can see that some of the red rubber gaskets have been left behind after removing the manifold, do not worry about this just take them off as if you are cleaning the manifold and EGR you will be re-using these gaskets when re-fitting takes place Fig 43/44/45
43
44
45
As you can see from this photo the mating surface is quite mucked up and also the ports are filled with the black goo Fig 46/47
46
47
The mating surface with need to be cleaned you can also clean just inside the ports with a rag with your finger but try to make sure you do not dislodge any of the goo and it falls into the ports, so finger in with rag wrapped round it and pull out do it several time if you have to always using a clean part of the rag. Fig 48
48
As you can see from this photo I am replacing the manifold and EGR as one with clean ones, you most likely if you are going to do this job will be cleaning the manifold and EGR before re-fitting so allow for this in your time scale of doing the job. Fig 49
49
If you are cleaning your manifold out always remove the MAP sensor first Fig 50
50
Also remove the EGR from the manifold to clean separate Fig 51
51
As you can see here the EGR is quite gummed up as opposed to a clean one Fig 52/53
52
53
Right we are now ready to re-fit the cleaned intake manifold and EGR Fig 54
54
Lower it down on to the engine and locate it on the bolt studs Fig 55
55
You can now start to tighten the bolts and nuts down use the sequence of every other bolt/nut top first Fig 56/57
56
57
Do the same with the bottom nuts and bolt Fig 58/59
58
59
Making sure the bolt is the last one in the bottom section of the manifold Fig 60
60
The manifold is now in place all you have to do now is re-fit the sensors and wiring back in place either side of the manifold Fig 61
61
Start with the right hand side as you look at the manifold the wiring harness Fig 62/63
62
63
Then move to the left of the manifold re-fitting the turbo boost pressure sensor Fig 64/65
64
65
Re-fit the wiring and fuel hose Fig 66
66
The hose to the EGR Fig 67/68
67
68
Next the jubilee retaining clip to the EGR pipe Fig 69
Refit all the intercooler hose and air intake hose job is done Fig 70.
I went on to change my hoses and fuel leak off lines and unions to brass ones I will add this to another post as it was a different job even though I did it at the same time cheers Arctic2
Hopefully I am posting this in the right place, and it will help other member whom may wish to do the same or similar work on their FL 1 TD4.
I have owned the FL now for 10 days and over the last few days I have been able to under take the routine maintenance jobs I like to do when I have first bought a car.
Here below I would like to share what I have dine and how I did it, these are the first stages of what I am intending to do to the car to bring it in line with how I like the car to be thanks Arctic2.
I am going to change the intake manifold & EGR for good clean ones I like to do this at least once a year.
Right I will start by first lift the bonnet and securing it on it's stay Fig 1
The first thing I like to do in undo the jubilee clips on all the hose I need to remove while doing the manifold change, EGR clips Fig 2
Air Intake/intercooler securing screws Fig 3
Small section of intercooler hose x 2 clips Fig 4
Moving along the line I remove the turbocharger boost temperature sensor, setting it out of the way to one side. Fig5/6
I next disconnect the top intercooler hose Fig 7
Then the air intake hose Fig 8
Both intercooler and air intakes hoses disconnected Fig 9
With the top intercooler hose disconnected you will see the other securing screws remove this Fig 10/11
You can now also remove the one near the EGR Fig 12
Next where the air intake connects to the air cleaner remove the wiring loom out from fixing point, it slides towards you Fig 13
With the wiring loom removed from the fork fitting, pull the air intake from the air cleaner gently it make take some force but it will come free Fig 14
As you pull the air intake free you can also lift it free from the EGR hose as here below Fig 15
With the Air/intercooler section removed put it safe to one side so it can not get damaged Fig 16
Now you can remove the EGR hose Fig 17/18
Put this also safe out of the way Fig 19
I next undid the EGR pipe retaining clip and removed it from it's joint as you can see below, Fig 20/21
Next I removed the small engine cover plate which is held on with three 8mm bolts Fig 22/23
As always boring I know but put it safe with it's bolts this way nothing gets damaged or and screws or bolts lost in the engine bay Fig 24
We can now focus on the manifold removing or unclipping any wires or hoses first one is the MAP sensor or the turbo boost pressure sensor, which is mounted on right hand side of the intake manifold but your left as you look at it, Fig 25/26
Easy removed by pressing in the securing clip Fig 26
Next unclip the wiring and fuel hose from the same side of the manifold as here below Fig 27/28
Now release the wiring harness grommet from the intake manifold right side as you look at it Fig 29/30
We can now concentrate on removing the manifold and the EGR all in one go you will need a 10mm and 11mm socket for the nuts and bolts holding the intake manifold in place.
First undo the 8 bolts at the top of the manifold these are 10mm Fig 31
Remove the holding section which holds down the injector cover/small engine middle bolt Fig 32/33
Next undo the bottom nuts which consist of 4 x11mm nuts and 1 11mm bolt Fig 34
Unclip the hose from the EGR as here Fig 35/36
Carrying on with the manifold removal as you can see here one of the nuts as seized so it as unbolts from the head if this happens not to worry as it is only the same as if it where a bolt, Fig 37
The other three came off as nuts Fig 38
The last one far left as you look at the manifold in a bolt as opposed to the other four 11mm being nuts Fig 39
With all the bolts and nuts released or removed you are now ready to remove the manifold from the engine Fig 40
Remove and as you can see with the EGR still attached to the manifold 41
Manifold and EGR off the car Fig 42
Going back to the engine you can see that some of the red rubber gaskets have been left behind after removing the manifold, do not worry about this just take them off as if you are cleaning the manifold and EGR you will be re-using these gaskets when re-fitting takes place Fig 43/44/45
As you can see from this photo the mating surface is quite mucked up and also the ports are filled with the black goo Fig 46/47
The mating surface with need to be cleaned you can also clean just inside the ports with a rag with your finger but try to make sure you do not dislodge any of the goo and it falls into the ports, so finger in with rag wrapped round it and pull out do it several time if you have to always using a clean part of the rag. Fig 48
As you can see from this photo I am replacing the manifold and EGR as one with clean ones, you most likely if you are going to do this job will be cleaning the manifold and EGR before re-fitting so allow for this in your time scale of doing the job. Fig 49
If you are cleaning your manifold out always remove the MAP sensor first Fig 50
Also remove the EGR from the manifold to clean separate Fig 51
As you can see here the EGR is quite gummed up as opposed to a clean one Fig 52/53
Right we are now ready to re-fit the cleaned intake manifold and EGR Fig 54
Lower it down on to the engine and locate it on the bolt studs Fig 55
You can now start to tighten the bolts and nuts down use the sequence of every other bolt/nut top first Fig 56/57
Do the same with the bottom nuts and bolt Fig 58/59
Making sure the bolt is the last one in the bottom section of the manifold Fig 60
The manifold is now in place all you have to do now is re-fit the sensors and wiring back in place either side of the manifold Fig 61
Start with the right hand side as you look at the manifold the wiring harness Fig 62/63
Then move to the left of the manifold re-fitting the turbo boost pressure sensor Fig 64/65
Re-fit the wiring and fuel hose Fig 66
The hose to the EGR Fig 67/68
Next the jubilee retaining clip to the EGR pipe Fig 69
Refit all the intercooler hose and air intake hose job is done Fig 70.
I went on to change my hoses and fuel leak off lines and unions to brass ones I will add this to another post as it was a different job even though I did it at the same time cheers Arctic2
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