JamesBB

Active Member
Hi All
I got a couple of 3 ton axle stands and using them to lift the front so I can get the radius front arms off.

This maybe a silly question, but want to be extra safe........
Is it best to put the axle stands under each end of the axle or, under the chassis? I have seem people mentioning under the chassis with pros and cons.

At the moment I have gone with the clue being in the name and they are under the front axle as far out/apart as I can get them.
As the drive is gravel, I have them sitting on a couple of large and thick paving slabs. Seems stable at the moment, but thought I better get the benefit of your collective experience :)

I might keep the trolley jack under there too.

Cheers guys.
Usual P38.
 
I would say if you are doing the radius arms, the best place would be on the chassis rails in front of the axle, but if you have jacked on the axle, you have to ensure you lift high enough so that when you lower onto the stands, as the axle drops to full articulation the wheels are still off the floor!

The reason I say Chassis is the Radius arms stop the axle moving backwards and forwards...if the vehicle is supported on the axles and you remove the radius arms, there is not much left to stop the axle from moving!
 
as the axle drops to full articulation the wheels are still off the floor!
But you don't want to hang the axles on the airsprings. It'd help to keep a jack under the axle or a few chocks of wood so not all of the weight is on the springs.
 
But you don't want to hang the axles on the airsprings. It'd help to keep a jack under the axle or a few chocks of wood so not all of the weight is on the springs.
True, but the shocks should be what stops the axle from hanging on the springs!, but good point though!
 
Stands under chassis hang axle supported by jack. But only remove one radius arm at a time. Not both at once.

Thanks for all the input.
So to recap, and as Wammers says but should I leave the jack under the diff or move it to each side of the axle as I take one side off then the other?

I am getting the local garage to press the old bushes out and I should be able to fit new split bushes. So a trip per radius arm leaving one in place at all times?

I need to get the track rod off too to replace a ball joint, and I think that needs to come off first.

Cheers again:)
 
Thanks for all the input.
So to recap, and as Wammers says but should I leave the jack under the diff or move it to each side of the axle as I take one side off then the other?

I am getting the local garage to press the old bushes out and I should be able to fit new split bushes. So a trip per radius arm leaving one in place at all times?

I need to get the track rod off too to replace a ball joint, and I think that needs to come off first.

Cheers again:)

Don't need to pay to get them out. Just drive a tapered punch down side of them to collapse shell. Then tap em out. One end of track rod needs to be removed then just swivel it out of way. It's usually N/S that goes you can't replace that end needs a new track rod.
 
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Don't need to pay to get them out. Just drive a tapered punch down side of them to collapse shell. Then tap em out. One end of track rod needs to be removed then just swivel it out of way. It's usually N/S that goes you can't replace that end needs a new track rod.

Thanks, will try getting the old bushes out that way then.

Jack ok under the diff I guess just to take the weight of the axle?
 
Thanks, will try getting the old bushes out that way then.

Jack ok under the diff I guess just to take the weight of the axle?

If you have a proper trolley jack that is where you jack car from. Under diff casing. If you have an Halfrauds one with a silly rubber pad the size of a ten pence piece that is not a good idea though. When car is on stands jack is just there for support.
 
If you have a proper trolley jack that is where you jack car from. Under diff casing. If you have an Halfrauds one with a silly rubber pad the size of a ten pence piece that is not a good idea though. When car is on stands jack is just there for support.

It is a proper one, very heavy and been in the family about 35+ years and still going strong. Not much of an heirloom though .;)
 
Don't need to pay to get them out. Just drive a tapered punch down side of them to collapse shell. Then tap em out. One end of track rod needs to be removed then just swivel it out of way. It's usually N/S that goes you can't replace that end needs a new track rod.

If you have trouble with the Chisel method .
You can get a small blow torch burn out the middle rubber .
Hack saw two slots in the outer bush , taking care not to cut in to radius arm tap out with punch .
 
It is a proper one, very heavy and been in the family about 35+ years and still going strong. Not much of an heirloom though .;)

Good i have an old 2.5 ton Epco i bought for around £45.00 brand new in about 1970. Still going strong. You can't beat a proper jack. :):)
 
But you don't want to hang the axles on the airsprings. It'd help to keep a jack under the axle or a few chocks of wood so not all of the weight is on the springs.
If the shocks are in good order, it will never hang on the airsprings. when off roading what do you think limits articulation?
 
If the shocks are in good order, it will never hang on the airsprings. when off roading what do you think limits articulation?
youd think so but ive had air bags pop off after usin 2 post lift(quite a shock when your on a test drive )and im not the only one ,
 
youd think so but ive had air bags pop off after usin 2 post lift(quite a shock when your on a test drive )and im not the only one ,
Either the shocks are the wrong ones or the mounts are worn, I can hang the axles on mine, no problem. With Dunlop air springs, you do need to have enough air in them, I always put it up to wading height before letting the wheels dangle.
 

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