Hi all I have 2009 to 2012 l322 rangerover and have been told that despite fitting oem dedicated trailer electrics and programing, that the Led trailer lights won't work correctly. I have found an aftermarket box which you can fit on to trailer but it is quite expensive and I would need to frequently change upon changing trailers. Has anyone managed to sort.
Wire the box into the cars loom or change the lights on that particular trailor? Sounds like a faff for you mate.
Have you tried the trailor without the light box?
Have you tried the trailor without the light box?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
LED indicators will work just fine. The only issue you'll have is the dash trailer light won't flash, as the low current of the LEDs can't sensed in the same way as normal bulbs. However you can wire a 6- 12 Ohm 25 Watt resistor in parallel with each LED indicator bulb, which will then fool the sense circuit into thinking that normal bulbs are fitted. It's easy and cheap to do, so could be done to every trailer you use.
Last edited:
Problem is on board computer sends a pulse to check bulbs so adding resister to kid loads will make it all work but they will still flash light and dim as test is initiated. Anyway I have found a solution but will cost about £160 I am hoping to negotiate better price if any one else is interested.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Nah!
Paul Wootton
Well-Known Member
Simple solution is to leave the existing or fit as well indicator lights,then your leds will work fine,I do this on all my trailers and have not had any problems.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I found they lasted longer than the filament bulbs as the trailers are used on some rough farm tracks.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Sending pulses is a new one on me, and definitely not a standard monitor system. Generally the CJB will measure the resistance of the indicator circuit, implementing a set routine based on the circuit resistance it sees.
A standard 21 Watt bulb has a resistance of around 7 ohms, so the CJB is simply looking for a resistance close to that at the trailer socket. If the trailer socket has a resistance of around that of a standard 21W, then it'll flash the dash light, as it knows a trailer is connected. This is why putting a 6-12 Ohm 25 watt resistor across the LED works, as the CJB implements the trailer connected routine.
It's your money, but spending £160 for a box with £5 worth of resistors inside seems excessive to me.
Last edited:
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I found they lasted longer than the filament bulbs as the trailers are used on some rough farm tracks.
I've LED lights on my trailer, simply because it bounces about, causing conventional bulbs to fail. I've £5 worth of power resistors across the indicators, which work perfectly, and illuminate the dash tell tail too.
Paul Wootton
Well-Known Member
The problem is that your new trailer with leds was designed to be that way and will have the correct resistor unit fitted.
As so many people see the swap as rocket science someone always tries to make a killing and £160 for an adaptor ir probably £145 profit.
As so many people see the swap as rocket science someone always tries to make a killing and £160 for an adaptor ir probably £145 profit.
Not quite sure if that’s directed at me, but there is no fancy boxes on the trailer that I have found.So I can only assume (I know that’s a dodgy thing to do) That the OP has cheap LED lights fitted, or he is worried about nothing
.J
Paul Wootton
Well-Known Member
Quite possible that the resistor is in the light unit,some top range units for commercial vehicles do have everything to enable a straight swap.
Paul Wootton
Well-Known Member
My comment was not aimed at you,just pointing out the various options with leds.Not quite sure if that’s directed at me, but there is no fancy boxes on the trailer that I have found.So I can only assume (I know that’s a dodgy thing to do) That the OP has cheap LED lights fitted, or he is worried about nothing
J
Paul
As I don’t consider our L322 with horse trailer or flat bed, commercial. I again can only assume(not going to explain my stupidity in doing that again) that the OP has fitted cheap cheerful “look at me I have LEDs”
Also as a side note I am considering changing the light clusters on the horse box as I am constantly having to take them off and pop the lamp holder back in to make a connection. Mainly because of bumpy roads and rough terrain, as has been mentioned.
J
