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Webley1991

Well-Known Member
I refitted the 2.25 diesel engine and gearbox to the Series 3 chassis over the weekend.

Are there any precautions I should take with these as it could be a while before the vehicle is ready to move again. There are currently no fuel lines, radiator, or anything else connected to the engine.

Would it be a good idea to fill the engine, gearbox and transfer box with oil at this stage? I have heard that condensation can form if the sump plugs are left off for extended periods, but I have all the plugs in place.

I have covered up the fuel line and air hose connections with duct tape to prevent anything being able to get in there.

I am rebuilding the vehicle in an un-heated garage where cold (and potential condensation) could be a problem soon.

Thanks for any info.
 
condensation and rust can be an issue whether stored with oil or not if its in a damp atmosphere, well used units store better than new or recon and trurning unit over regulalry helps keep parts well protected, you can get preservative oil which is designed for the purpose which gives off protective oil vapour
 
Both of these were recon units. I will have to look into getting some of that oil. It will be a few months at least yet before they are ready to move again.

Do I need to put the preservative oil into the cylinders somehow?

The gearbox/transfer box have been stored with no oil since may this year. I didn't think it would be a problem with the warm weather up until now.
 
Fill all parts with correct oil, turn over regularly. Pull injectors and put a little oil in the holes to keep the bores oiled. It will smoke like a good un on start up but worth the effort. Don't forget to replace the injector seals after doing this. My biggest worry would be the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel.
 
I sprayed in a preservative oil down all plug holes etc. before storing my spare engine. Supposed to vapourise and cling to components (hopefully). Cant remember the make I used but it is apparently used a lot in the marine industry on leisure boat engines which stand the winter etc
 
put a bit in each bore and then fill engine as normal they turn engine over to get oil circulated , g/box just fill as normal and again turn over a few times, new bearings etc rust quite easily,its what we had to do to all mod recon units
 
Thanks for the replies. I have found several listings on ebay for "fogging oil" for storage of outboard motors. Is that what was being referred to in this thread?

Is turning the engine over by hand enough to properly circulate the oil? Presumably it would need to reach the cylinder head etc.

Having to take the injectors off is really not what I wanted to hear. I will contact the firm who rebuilt the engine and see what they did in the way of protection.
 
Webley1991 said:
Thanks for the replies. I have found several listings on ebay for "fogging oil" for storage of outboard motors. Is that what was being referred to in this thread?

Is turning the engine over by hand enough to properly circulate the oil? Presumably it would need to reach the cylinder head etc.

Having to take the injectors off is really not what I wanted to hear. I will contact the firm who rebuilt the engine and see what they did in the way of protection.
Click to expand...

just spray a little in through the manifold , turning over by hand is fine as long as sup is full, it will reach top end after a good few turns
 
Thanks for he replies.

I spoke to the same person who rebuilt the engine today. He said that he gives everything a good coating of oil internally. This is for the reason that the engines may be stood for a while. He also sprays the valves with spray grease before putting the rocker cover on.

How about filling the sump and connecting a battery to the starter motor? One possible problem I can think of here is that the diesel pump would be turning dry.

Also, would removing the glow plugs rather than the injectors to spray oil in be a problem? I can't think of a reason why it would be.

Do you need a starting handle to get the extra purchase to turn it over by hand? I don't actually have one, although the pulley does have notches for one.
 
you can remove glow plugs , but in my experience ordinary oil runs and drys off and damp leads to rust on contact points between rings and bores plus other parts
 
I think this is the stuff I bought....

Rock Oil Super Marine Inhibitor Spray - WhiteDogBikes

I removed glow plugs and sprayed liberally. Also removed rocker cover and same there. I turned the engine over by hand to get it down the bores. Sprayed again a few weeks later and repeated. Also good for spraying your swivel balls with if you don't plan to drive the Landy for a while as it provides protection there. I think motor cyclists use this and classic car owners to protect wire wheels in winter.
 
Will I need to take the plugs out to turn the engine by hand?

I just tried it and could not get it to move at all. All I managed was to turn the pulley very slightly in the anti-clockwise direction.

It doesn't have any oil in yet, I will need to pick that up tomorrow.
 
I filled the sump with oil today.

So it definitely isn't a problem for the diesel pump for it to turn dry at hand rotated speeds? I wouldn't want to do anything that could damage £200 worth of reconditioned pump.
 
Today I noticed some sports of surface rust on the flywheel where I have had the starter motor off.

I am hesitant to spray anything oil based anywhere near the clutch plate for obvious reasons. What would be the best course of action here (until I can get the starter motor re-fitted)?
 
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