Hi everyone, I just traveled from Sydney to Darwin and have started to have lots of issues. Its a long way and there were days that temperature got up to 47 degrees C. First problem was that the old water tank splitted and for the lat 300km i had to stop every 50 and refill. In Darwin I replaced the water tank and sensor and seems ok.
The big issue now is that the car enters in limp mode and lots of system fails after running for 10 minutes. HDC, gear, etc systems all fail and i have to drive slowly and park. I wait 10 minutes and everything works fine again. A mechanic has looked at the trouble code. It seems that he receives the trouble code for crankshaft sensor and other codes after. He has spent hours looking for the sensor. It seems like the position is different depending on the model, year, etc. He has looked everywhere and came back to me saying that It has to be inside the gear box. This means that we would have to remove the gear box to find the sensor inside and change it hoping that it was the one creating the problem. I cant find enough evidence online that the sensor is there and stressed because even if it is, I could not be the original issue. Anyway, I would appreciate if anyone can confirm that the sensor could be in the gear box and whether there are other things to check that could be triggering the limp mode before doing that big job?

I have never done one but I believe it is mounted in the flywheel housing is almost impossible to access, though I have read of people doing them in situ
It might help if your mechanic is a gynaecologist!

lynall said:

I have never done one but I believe it is mounted in the flywheel housing is almost impossible to access, though I have read of people doing them in situ
It might help if your mechanic is a gynaecologist!

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Thanks Lynall! And its great some sense of humour. been obsessed in finding a way to get to this sensor. i love the car but wow, its amazing that the car drives perfect and this small faulty sensor that might cost more than $4 to change can block the car to the point that canh be driven and almost not worth repearing. And, what happens if you do the job and then it wasnt that? yeah, bit strsffull. trouble reading gives the crnkshft sensor but because the whole system collapses, lots of other codes come after. anyway, seems like we might have to pull the gear box No ginecologists here)

I have changed three in Mercedes v6 and v8 petrol engines, so not uncommon across all makes of vehicles.
Did one on a volvo fh12 last week.

Ebay suggests genuine sensor is £140gbp.

Might be a how to video on youtube?

I used to replace a lot of these as part of a recall, they're on the left side of the engine, looking from the drivers seat forwards.
Remove road wheel, through the wheelarch you'll see the turbo, remove support bracket to access the rubber bung in the casting. Note the wiring running through it - this is the wiring fixed to the crank sensor, which is retained by a Torx 25 captive screw, I suggest a long (100mm) torx bit taped to a UJ to prevent it disconnecting, unscrew the sensor, withdraw as far as you can, rotate 180 degrees and withdraw fully. It helps to 'fold' the wiring to steer the new sensor into position, be careful not to crossthread the bolt when refitting.

Graculus said:

I used to replace a lot of these as part of a recall, they're on the left side of the engine, looking from the drivers seat forwards.
Remove road wheel, through the wheelarch you'll see the turbo, remove support bracket to access the rubber bung in the casting. Note the wiring running through it - this is the wiring fixed to the crank sensor, which is retained by a Torx 25 captive screw, I suggest a long (100mm) torx bit taped to a UJ to prevent it disconnecting, unscrew the sensor, withdraw as far as you can, rotate 180 degrees and withdraw fully. It helps to 'fold' the wiring to steer the new sensor into position, be careful not to crossthread the bolt when refitting.

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Thanks a lot Gracilus! there has been now a couole of peops in forums that have pointed me to that location. Yours is the most detailed explanation! thanks a lot! Tomorrow we ll try hard to find that spot!!

Hi, thanks for the respond. And sorry for late respond. The mechanic i found only just managed to change the sensor!!!! And as some of you predicted, the problem still seems to be there. Apparently he turned the car on once he changed the sensor but 10 minutes after it shut down again and cant turn it o again. He did register the sensor which is:

P0336- 31 crankshaft position sensor a circuit range - performance no signal

To me it seems like the crankshaft sensor again but how can it be? Did he buy a faulty one or is there any reason? I think he bought a crankshaft sensor made by borsch. probably not the land rover one. I think he said the borsch should be good and costed $100 while Landrover was charging $440 for it. I am sooooo lost.

THanks so much everybody.

I hate mechanics who are reading a fault code then that's it
If the sensor is new and the code is about it's circuit the logical move would be to check the circuit IMO, the live input while cranking or whilethe engine runs would be the first step(it can be started with spray for a short check)... that input should give an ideea, based on that checking the wiring with multimeter for shorts or interruption with ECU and sensor's plug both disconnected cos from the possible causes shown in the WSM only the sensor was ruled out(the worst scenario is to be the flywheel)... the connector at the ECU with the crank sensor's input is C2518 and the wires the same colour like at the sensor being hardwired if you see what i mean...
*** each time you unplug any connector at any ECU disconnect the battery first