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REBANDAN1

New Member
Morning All,
First time on here so thought I would post this.
I have a 1976 series 3 Landrover, starts first time, after about 5 miles the temp gauge goes up n up and then the Land Rover cuts out. Will not start, turns over but will it start.
Let it cool down for an hour and alls back to normal…
I have drained and cleaned the coolant in the radiator a few times, thermostat works fine…
Any ideas?
Thank You
 
REBANDAN1 said:
Morning All,
First time on here so thought I would post this.
I have a 1976 series 3 Landrover, starts first time, after about 5 miles the temp gauge goes up n up and then the Land Rover cuts out. Will not start, turns over but will it start.
Let it cool down for an hour and alls back to normal…
I have drained and cleaned the coolant in the radiator a few times, thermostat works fine…
Any ideas?
Thank You
Click to expand...
Welcome to LZ.

Vehicle details will help.
 
Petrol series known to cut out due to fuel vapour lock because of the overheating.
Are you losing coolant? Has your rad got all of its cooling fins?
A hand held IR temp reader is a good tool to check which parts of a cooling system is doing its stuff.
 
tottot said:
Petrol series known to cut out due to fuel vapour lock because of the overheating.
Are you losing coolant? Has your rad got all of its cooling fins?
A hand held IR temp reader is a good tool to check which parts of a cooling system is doing its stuff.
Click to expand...
Hi. Not loosing coolant. Rad reads around 70 with the thermometer. Thermostat kicks in and works.
 
You may have two issues.
If you are sure are not actually overheating with your thermometer readings 70 something at the top of rad and lower at the bottom hose is good. With engine hot and rad cap off [careful opening up, slow with thick cloth over cap] can you see coolant circulating? If so good.
May be temp sender fubar. I always recommend fitting an after market capillary temp gauge that reads in numbers degrees and know your actual engine temp. Old gauges wiring ect.
Another check is for the ignition coil. When it cuts out with care check the ignition coil, if it is hot may well be on the way out.
 
tottot said:
You may have two issues.
If you are sure are not actually overheating with your thermometer readings 70 something at the top of rad and lower at the bottom hose is good. With engine hot and rad cap off [careful opening up, slow with thick cloth over cap] can you see coolant circulating? If so good.
May be temp sender fubar. I always recommend fitting an after market capillary temp gauge that reads in numbers degrees and know your actual engine temp. Old gauges wiring ect.
Another check is for the ignition coil. When it cuts out with care check the ignition coil, if it is hot may well be on the way out.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry for the delay in relying.
Aftermarket temp gauge says overheating as it goes over 100. Original temp gauge doesn’t work. If I run the Landrover with rad cap off it doesn’t seem to overheat. Rad cap on and temp gauge says very hot, cuts out and will not start till cooled down again.
Is the temp controller just for the dashboard gauge? I am going to fit a new one but just wondering what it actually does?
 
Hi,
I think my issues are that the guard says overheating and the engine cuts out and the engine will not start.
So in my head I have different issues.
I Just ordered a sensor and will fit asap, but if that’s just going to tell me it’s hot then I need to find out why it gets too hot. Why it cuts out and why it won’t start till cooled down.
If that’s makes sense?
Rgds,
 
Weber carbs are known for not starting when hot, all the same the over heating problems need sorting first..
Does it have a rad fan and cowl?
 
Anaconda said:
Weber carbs are known for not starting when hot, all the same the over heating problems need sorting first..
Does it have a rad fan and cowl?
Click to expand...
Not sure on carbs, as far as I know all original, inherited from my dad who bought it new in 1976. No it doesnt have a fan cowl, 1 original fan and 1 kenlow fan fitted afterwards, temp to come on set to about 40deg...
 
REBANDAN1 said:
Not sure on carbs, as far as I know all original, inherited from my dad who bought it new in 1976. No it doesnt have a fan cowl, 1 original fan and 1 kenlow fan fitted afterwards, temp to come on set to about 40deg...
Click to expand...
You need a fan cowl. Our 2a had a Series 3 rad in it with a fan cowl and the additional cowl you can get. You could run it all day without getting hot. A capillary gauge with numbers is excellent in these old motors to keep an eye on temps. The only time it got near to being hot is when we had forgotten to remove the radiator muff on a green lane trip.
You shouldn't need an additional fan at all.
Pretty sure you can get original fans with more blades, military fan maybe.
Ignoring the gauge is it actually getting hot though?
I would change the coil, as mentioned above, for the sake of the price and the rad cap.
I would also find out what carb you have, aftermarket ones are crap.
We had one fitted by previous owner, that would stop working and break down on a regular basis when warm, as in every hour!
 
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