spadgr

Active Member
Gidday,

Had my 2008 Range Rover sport 2.7 Diesel for a couple of months now and its been a huge improvement on my old P38 Diesel, until last week. I noticed a couple of times what seemed like a flat spot when accelerating and it soon developed in to a serious lack of power. Eventually the engine check light came on and so when i scanned it it came up with an EGR fault. I gave both EGR'S a tap and cleared the fault and all was good for a few days and then the lack of power occurred again. I'm a bit worried about driving it with a dodgy EGR system as i don't want to damage the Diesel particulate filters in the exhaust, so what i want to know is "how easy are the EGR's to remove and clean?" or is it best to block off the EGR system?

All info digested and appreciated,
 
Gidday,

Had my 2008 Range Rover sport 2.7 Diesel for a couple of months now and its been a huge improvement on my old P38 Diesel, until last week. I noticed a couple of times what seemed like a flat spot when accelerating and it soon developed in to a serious lack of power. Eventually the engine check light came on and so when i scanned it it came up with an EGR fault. I gave both EGR'S a tap and cleared the fault and all was good for a few days and then the lack of power occurred again. I'm a bit worried about driving it with a dodgy EGR system as i don't want to damage the Diesel particulate filters in the exhaust, so what i want to know is "how easy are the EGR's to remove and clean?" or is it best to block off the EGR system?

All info digested and appreciated,

Hi

U can blank them off but will need a software update patch, best to leave the egr pipes in situ and put the blank between the engine block and pipes , u remove the throttle body and egr pipes for cleaning

First thing to do is remove and carefully clean ur MAP sensor that sits in top of the throttle body as I bet that’s full of junk

Getting the egrs out isn’t a 5 x min job

Plse let us know if ur MAP sensor is blocked as that will effect performance

Hope that helps
 
What should i use to clean the MAP sensor? I know you can get cans of stuff to spray into the intake whilst running the engine that are supposed to clean the EGR, do they actually work, or more harm than good?
 
What should i use to clean the MAP sensor? I know you can get cans of stuff to spray into the intake whilst running the engine that are supposed to clean the EGR, do they actually work, or more harm than good?

Hi

Personally I wouldn’t ever do that , haven’t read any threads yet where they’ve been effective , maybe other members have

U can buy MAP sensor cleaner , or carb cleaner etc, please ensure u don’t poke anything down the hole of the map sensor or you’ll damage it

Hope that helps
 
Took out the map sensor and it was gummed up so gave it a clean and popped it back in and although i thought there may have been some improvement i couldn't be 100% sure. I t certainly isn't any worse. I have noticed over the last week or so that there is often a flat spot when throttling off and on, ie at junctions and roundabouts etc.
I have looked on ebay and see there are a couple of options for bypassing the EGR system. One just to block at the exhaust end of the valve and the other to remove the pipes and block off both ends.

U can blank them off but will need a software update patch, best to leave the egr pipes in situ and put the blank between the engine block and pipes , u remove the throttle body and egr pipes for cleaning

When you say the block and the pipes, i assume you mean the EGR valve and pipes, also just wondering why it is best to leave the pipes in situ.
 
Took out the map sensor and it was gummed up so gave it a clean and popped it back in and although i thought there may have been some improvement i couldn't be 100% sure. I t certainly isn't any worse. I have noticed over the last week or so that there is often a flat spot when throttling off and on, ie at junctions and roundabouts etc.
I have looked on ebay and see there are a couple of options for bypassing the EGR system. One just to block at the exhaust end of the valve and the other to remove the pipes and block off both ends.



When you say the block and the pipes, i assume you mean the EGR valve and pipes, also just wondering why it is best to leave the pipes in situ.

Hi

Good that you’ve at least got that cleaned out

Reason the egr pipes are left in situ is because of new mot regs , however I should have looked that ur in NZ so don’t know if there’s different rules

As ur is after 2007 ur need a software patch when the egr pipes are blanked

Have a look on a local NZ Land Rover forum and see ref the mot regs , if ur allowed to remove the pipe completely of have to stay in situ but just blanked at the engine block end

The gap iid diagnostics are very good

Hope that helps
 
There is emission testing in NZ, only a visual smoke test, so removing the pipes is not an issue. Thanks for the heads up on diagnostics, that was going to be another ask for me. I have a P38 and BB Solutions diagnostic MV Extreme that i only ever used for the EAS, but i would like to know what the best option is for diagnostics on the RR Sport. I have access to Snap on and Launch Diagnostics but are there better options that won't cost an arm and a leg?
 
Either get the egrs fixed or blank them off as in the near future whith the EGRs stuck open you will burn holes in your manifold (ask me how i know )
After fitting the new (second hand manifold) i used oven cleaner in the Y pice before i fitted and then when running used the sprayin cleaner into the manifold and by judging the amount of black smoke and carbon dust came out and coated everything in close proximity so yes it does work.
blanked mine off but still got the engine light on and egr fault showing on the OBD so got a new egr valve and just pluged in witout removing the old one but you also need a resistor in the system to tell the system into thinking that the egr is not blanked.
I have a NANOCOM with disco 3 softwarembut you can get it with RR Sport software for the 2.7 diesel
 

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