Hi, My friends L322 TD6 3.0 2003 has got a transmission problem. It has had a slight rattle from the gearbox area when on tickover.
Yesterday it went into limp mode and the display showed "Transfer Box Failsafe". He then lost all drive in both Drive and Reverse. It came back after a while and he managed to limp it home in LOW ratio. We put it on an i920 diagnostic tool and it shows a Bosch GS8.60.1 Auto Transmission and showed faults P0894 "Transmission Slipping" and P0735 "Fault currently present Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio".
I cancelled the faults and tried the car again. We then found that we had no drive in either Drive or Reverse.
We suspected the torque convertor so I started to research torque convertor faults on the internet. We also put it back on the diagnostics and it showed no faults. The internet said to test the torque convertor by trying a stall test by putting the transmission in Drive with your foot hard on the brake and revving the engine to 2,000rpm. We tried that and he said he felt a jolt and the car went into gear. He now can get Drive and Reverse and the car seems fine.
However, he is now reluctant to drive it anywhere in case it happens again.

Any ideas?
 
The gearbox for the l322 td6 is a GM box and looks like it was made of soft metal that wares out and drops pressure in the valve block, check the oil level and maybe do an oil change dont bother about changing the filter but it must be the correct oil not any old atf that will screw it up, and it must be filled how the book says then see how it is
but they are well known to need a rebuild at about 80k
when you drain the oil look for fine bits it.
 
The gearbox for the l322 td6 is a GM box and looks like it was made of soft metal that wares out and drops pressure in the valve block, check the oil level and maybe do an oil change dont bother about changing the filter but it must be the correct oil not any old atf that will screw it up, and it must be filled how the book says then see how it is
but they are well known to need a rebuild at about 80k
when you drain the oil look for fine bits it.
Start saving up for a torque converter, gearbox,oil cooler and pipes.the torque converter lock up clutch fails and the crap produced is consumed by the gearbox,and any residual crap will sit in the cooler and pipe's ready to feck the next gearbox.:(
 
He brought the car with the transmission faulty. He did an oil and filter change and did notice metal "dust" in the old oil. It worked fine for a couple of thousand miles but is now giving trouble again
 
Start saving up for a torque converter, gearbox,oil cooler and pipes.the torque converter lock up clutch fails and the crap produced is consumed by the gearbox,and any residual crap will sit in the cooler and pipe's ready to feck the next gearbox.:(
the head of that nail has been hit... +1 on this statement I'm afraid...
 
wont recommend the people who did my one partly because they went out of business and partly because they didn't do the mods i payed for there is supposed to be a company down Devon that are good
 
When mine went i found a lad breaking his that had a reconditioned box in it.
All paperwork and recipts was present and had done just under 11k miles. He even let me pull the sump so i could see there was no filings in it.
He had a torque converter done at same time too.
Not that i used his torque converter and sourced one for the risk factor.

I ended up getting
Gearbox £700
New cooler lines made up £150
A new gearbox oil cooler (hella brand) £130
A lux torque converter £475
Gearbox oil filter £35
Texaco etl 7045 oil £100 for 20L
Flex plate was £80 while it was all out.

More then i paid for the motor but 28k miles before it went with the only real expense being 2 front struts.

Reset gearbox ecu adaptions and so far iv done 13k miles and its been fine.

Easy easy job to take out and plonk another in.
 

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